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Hi!
I normally shoot portraits outside. My customers want me to set up a studio so I can take studio portraits of them as well. I don't know much about studio lighting and was hoping for some help. Equipment: Canon Rebel XT Lenses: 18-55 5.6, 50 1.8, 28-80 5.6, 28-105 4.5, 55-250 5.6 Strobes: 550EX II, 420 EXII Umbrella Softbox Pocketwizards: Miniflex transmitter, flex t5 receiver I get the whole idea of a 1,2,3, and 4 light set up. But I only have one pocketwizard receiver to be used with my strobe. I can borrow a friend's receiver and then I will have 2 lights. My question is this....when I use one strobe with the umbrella to my right, camera on manual, 400iso, 8.0, it's underexposed. And it's a little hard for the camera to focus because of not enough light. Also, there is a slight shadow on the subject's right side, (at my left). I could put a lamp with a gel behind the backdrop if that would help things. If I borrowed my friend's receiver and placed a 2nd strobe with softbox to my left and a little low for kick light or high for hair light, that would solve the shadow issue...correct? But, there is still the problem with underexposure. How can I correct this? I was also thinking about purchasing a alienbee 800. I think because the 800 has a model light it will help being able for the camera to focus much better, and it the image won't be underesposed....correct? But I can only get the 1 800 for now. How could I use the 1 800 and not get a shadow? Also, which one of the lenses should I use and how far back from the subject should I stand? Would love to hear your opinion! Thanks! |
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As a natural light photographer myself. I don't do studios. I would tell them to have a studio photographer do their indoor portraits. But if you want to do it, go for it!
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please add me on facebook even if you don't like my photos. much appreciated! Colby Jack Photography on facebook :: Nikon D7000 :: Nikkor 18-20mm f/3.5-f/5.6 :: Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 ai :: |
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Quote:
![]() N_0073resiz by vmontalbano, on Flickr
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com Last edited by autofocus; 09-17-2011 at 11:16 PM. |
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How is opi's onion?
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Heavily medicated for your protection Flickriver http://www.photoblog.com/thomasneubauer/ http://thomasneubauer.com |
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Quote:
Lenses: 18-55 5.6, 50 1.8, 28-80 5.6, 28-105 4.5, 55-250 5.6 Do you really need both? I don't know the exact lens you're talking about but as for focal length of the lenses and aperture you listed, the 28-105 4.5 lens seem to take care of all of the work for your 28-80 5.6 lens... making it completely useless or at most a backup lens. But if you got cash then sure no big deal, but what I would do is I would not ever go back shooting in a studio environment without a light meter and I noticed you didn't list or have it in your gear. A Light meter would (or should) fix your exposure issues. You may or may not want that alien bee, but without a light meter it wouldn't make much of a difference unless you know the whole math involved in that but that would just make life a pain in the ass... trust me. I have Sekonic L-308S Flashmate Light Meter 401-309 B&H Photo Video And most of my work is in the studio and using very low key lighting. If I were you I wouldn't charge customers without being somewhat comfortable with knowing how to shoot in a studio. Question, do you know what kind of shoot the customers want? what mood, or type, like family portraits, corporate photos, etc....model portfolio???? every type of shoot like family portraits has certain lighting do's and dont's like I wouldn't do low key lighting for a standard family portrait, same goes for corporate, or formal feel and tones. Do you have any backdrops? normally in a studio you would need a backdrop support system. As for lens, I would use your 55-250 5.6, but again depends on your space in the studio, as you shoot from further the subjects would feel more comfortable as if you're too close to their personal space it would generally come out in the photo. But as for sharpness, I would just use the sharpest lenses in a shoot which I'm not sure with lack of information from your lenses I can't say which would be overall best for all studio portrait shoots but if you only had one L lens I would choose the L lens over anything else because level of sharpness should be by far better than the non-L lenses.
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Chris Adval: Learning Model Photography Website & Blog | Facebook Fanpage | Facebook | Twitter | Flickr | 500px | Gear Page | Model Mayhem Profile | Like my portrait/model photography critiques? Want more or one of your own? Submit some photos to me here and it will be featured on my blog! | Want your photos get Honest Constructive Critiques in Model Photography? Check out my Flickr Group here! Last edited by ChrisAdval; 09-18-2011 at 03:37 AM. |
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