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sunny 16 rule is what popped into my head as well..
It states - For a subject in direct sunlight - set aperture to F16 and Shutterspeed to the (nearest) Reciprocal of the ISO. so f16 at 1/100th for iso 100 (though back in the day, with only full stops of shutterspeed one had to go to 1/125th because 1/100 was not an option) One would also use some other basic guesses based on the weather condition and strength of shadows - it still works fairly well - this was how many got by with out a light meter.. All you had to do was increase or decrease by a stop per level, so i`ll adjust aperture so that 1/iso still works for shutter speed. With a good understanding of the exposure triangle, it becomes fairly easy to do a decent job of guessing a nearly correct exposure. With film`s lattitude, it was often good enough. With Slide film / digital - it would be better to bracket around the guestimate - though with digital one usually has a light meter available - and otherwise a histogram. I still practice guessing exposures with manual before shooting, just because It`s neat to be able to do f/4 Open Shade/Sunset definitely no shadows +4 stops f/5.6 Heavy Overcast No shadows +3 stops f/8 Overcast very hard to see shadows +2 stops f/11 Slight Overcast slightly soft shadows +1 stop F/16 Sunny (and thus sunny 16) f/22 Snow/Sand Strong Sharp Shadows -1 stop And then we`d add a stop or so for backlighting. |
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Great info. It definitely gives me the starting point I was hoping for. Thank you so much.
Still, I am brand new to photography, so it also raised 2 questions.. I hope you have the time to touch on them, perhaps. You discussed setting 1/100 shutter speed for a 100 ISO... the 2 are apparently reciprocals. So, for a 400 ISO (I'm guessing here) I would use a 1/400 shutter speed (if such a shutter speed exists)...Sensor is 4 times more sensitive, so I'm reducing the time the shutter is open by roughly 75%. ish. maybe. Somewhere in there. Do I have that correct? Also, I was curious about the stops you listed. From your example, for heavily overcast skies I would start with an aperture setting of 5.6. You also added "+3 stops". I was curious what "+3 stops" refers to. I know we talk about the aperture setting using the word stops, but I'm not sure what the +3 is. Thank you in advance! |
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I hope I'm correct in saying...a + or - stop does not necesarily have to be changed with the aperature. A stop is double the light or half of the light hitting the sensor. This can be achieved with any of the three factors (aperature, shutter speed, or ISO). From 1/100 to 1/200th is a stop, 5.6 to 11 is a stop, ISO 100 to 200 is a stop. Not that these were all in the same direction (+-), just giving examples.
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Canon T2i 18-55mm kit, 50mm 1/1.8 II, EF-s 55-250, 580EXII, Lumapro 160, Cactus V5s http://www.flickr.com/photos/dalmorloson/ http://500px.com/MattGallagher/photos Last edited by dalmorloson; 02-25-2011 at 12:53 AM. |
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That`s right, i only gave varied aperature in the examples above - so that the general idea of 1/iso for shutter speed was right - you could of course vary iso or shutter speed to increase or decrease exposure.
But using this - is a rough guide - it would be more accurate to use the cameras meter. |
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Canon EOS 500D, Canon EFS-18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II, Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG APO Macro HSM II, Vertex tripod, LowePro Flipside 300 |
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