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You could decide on a shutter speed and use a light meter to give you the aperture for a correct exposure. But if it's on a tripod and there's no movement, it's really just a case of what effect you want as the aperture will change the depth of field. Having said this, most lenses have a "sweet spot" and tend to soften towards the edges. I believe a good rule of thumb for clarity is around the f8.0 mark
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Art: www.jamieorourke.co.uk Work: www.jamieorourkephotography.co.uk Work: Photo booth Hire in the West Midlands, and Wales Sony a200 Sony a580, Canon 500D, Photobooth
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No problem, I'm at work (day job) and it's dead
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Art: www.jamieorourke.co.uk Work: www.jamieorourkephotography.co.uk Work: Photo booth Hire in the West Midlands, and Wales Sony a200 Sony a580, Canon 500D, Photobooth
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Well your light meter is probably going to give you the wrong reading for snow - as it is much whiter than 18% grey (or 12% grey). Thus, typically you will want to add (yes add) positive exposure compensation typically in the 0.7 to 1.3 range. This will prevent your snow from having a greyish blue tint and will help it come out white.
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Nikon D700, D300, D5000, NIKON GLASS 85mm F/1.8 D, 105mm f/2.8 Micro AF-S VR, 70-200 AF-S VR f/2.8, 28-300 AF-S VRII,10.5mm Fisheye, 24-70 AF-S f/2.8, TC-20E II AF-S, Sigma 12-24 HSM, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 HSM, Sigma 150-500 OS, 2 SB-600 Speedlights, Manfrotto 190MF3 tripod & 322RC2 ball grip head. - NJ, USA Flickr Photobucket Ok to edit and repost my shots on DPS forums |
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