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These things tend to be very expensive, with only one or two exceptions. Is there anything to be gained by getting one of the cheaper models, i.e. Flashpoint, Induro? Or do those cause more disappointments than learning experiences?
I think I would like a Gimbal type head for a 7D, Sigma 150-500mm and occasionally a 2x TC combo. Would be used mostly for bird and wildlife photography. But..... but...... but...... I don't want to spend $500 - $600 dollars for one and then find out it is more of a headache than it is worth. The $250 - $300 range is much more appealing. ____________________________ Oops, I put this in the wrong location. I was looking through the gear for sale and thought I had move to the Q&A section. Can this just be deleted?
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I have a Benro copy of the Wimberly..I think $350...
But for that lens/combo I don't think you need a Gimbal. If you want the flexibility of one you could get a "converter" to add to your ballhead like THIS or the Wimberly sidekick. Or another "budget option" is the Manfroto 393 which works very well for the money (but again, I don't think you need that)... Personally, I think I'd get the Jobu for the cost/convenience/ease to use with your lens combo.
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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Hmmmmmm...... "THIS" looks interesting for the money. It says it can handle the lens, but doesn't mention an overall recommended weight range. Does the gear really balance on a setup like that and make it easier to swing into position and hold it long enough to get the shot? The regular gimbal head looks like it almost cradles the lens at a point of equilibrium. Not easily seeing how this thing does the same.
Decisions, decisions.......... This sure is an expensive hobby! lol
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Yes, it can work quite well. When you get into the really heavy lenses (like my 800mm) it won't work very well. It also will not entirely balance out 100% because there is no adjustment for the height of lens foot. But it will do the job.
With lighter lenses I actually just use my Acratech GV2 as a "gimbal". I love Acratech heads.
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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I saw that Acratech head during a search at Adorama. It did look interesting, but the price started to creep up on that one. I will probably just give the Jobu a try for that price. All I really want to do is swing the camera into position quickly and then I want it to stay put until I can squeeze off the shutter. With a regular ballhead I just can't get it all locked down quickly enough to get the shot I want.
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Quote:
How dose your Benro (Copy of Wimberley) work ? Is it a good one and can do the work what a Wimberly dose?? Your reply will be much appriciated. |
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It works quite well. I use one of the heaviest lenses made, the Sigma 300-800, with no problems.
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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There is another consideration I never see discussed when it comes to gimbal type heads and zoom lenses. You can set the lens up to be balanced at any point from one extreme to the other, but as soon as you zoom in or out you can forget all about that balancing act. Still gives you better control of the larger lenses.
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None of my zooms change length/size except my 28-300....
For a lens like the Sigma 50-500, 150-500, etc which do change size (and are much heavier than my 28-300) a gimbal isn't really required. Besides, with a Gimbal you want enough tension on the movements that it holds each position and provides some resistance, but not so much that it "chatters". You don't want it completely "loose". That tension should be enough to handle small changes in length due to zoom.
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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I just never gave the changing lens length much thought until I got the Jobu Jr. Spent a lot of time getting it all balanced and ready to take a few shots. Then I went wide to spot my subject and realized all my effort to balance the setup was just a little bit pointless.
Now that I have used it for a while, I find that it is best to set the balance with the lens fully extended and not worry about it. Chances are you will be lining up your subject, zooming in and then taking the shot.
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