what camera is right for me?

[testarossa]

Hello, I would like to buy a digital camera but I'm not sure wich one, can you help me?

I don't have any particular type of photography I want to do. I want a camera to bring with me on holidays, to do some street photograpy and portraits, to do pics at sports event. I think I would exclude macro photography.

I always used a Nikon FE2 with 50mm F1.8, 105mm F2.5 and 180mm F2.8. I also have a 300 F4 and a AF 70-300 ED that some time I use, mostly for sport.

After some research I found those interesting cameras:

Panasonic GF-1: little but powerfull tool it seems, the only concern is the lack of viewfinder.

Nikon D3100 or D7000

I listed the D3100 because it should be smaller that D7000, anything that you can bring with to take more pics is good..

I would like also to shoot always RAW+JPEG, to take advantage of postproduction, something I love that couldn't be done easly and quickly with film.

Thank you very much!

[inkista]

For the sports, and given the glass you have (particularly the 300/4), you definitely want to get a Nikon dSLR, and you probably want one with a focus motor in the body, so I'd say D7000 over the D3100. The D3100 only autofocuses with AF-S lenses, so if you get the D3100, most of your lenses won't autofocus. This is bad for sports shooting.

For the walkaround/street shooting and travelling light, you may want to consider simply getting a P&S camera in addition to the dSLR gear, or just saving up again to grab a micro four-thirds or other large-sensor compact (like the Sony NEX). It's early days yet, and Nikon and Canon both say they're going to enter the fray. Personally, I'm waiting to see if the viewfinder technology in the Fuji X100 finds its way into an interchangeable lens camera.

Also, with the GF-1, you can get an add-on EVF. The Olympus one for the E-P2 and E-PL1 is higher resolution, though. Keep in mind, the Panasonic GF-1, and Olympus E-P2 both use the micro four-thirds mounts and can use the same lenses.

[testarossa]

Thank you

I forgot to say I have just one lens that is AF: the AF 70-300 ED, wich sadly it isn't AF-S, so D90 or D7000 for the reflex...

Yes P&S I need one, but they're all not so good. The good ones (M4/3 and NEX) are expensive like a DSLR...
Nex5 is good but it hasn't a lot of manual controls, and quick to respond like a GF1. And can I mount my nikon lenses on it?

Problem my friends is that I don't want to spend all that money in one shot, so now I have to decide between reflex and M4/3.

[jml79]

You can buy and adaptor for either Sony E (nex) or u4/3 to mount your Nikon lenses. I don't know of any adapter that has a screw drive so likely you will only be able to manual focus with your lenses. The Sony has a crop factor of 1.5 and the u4/3 crop by 2 so keep that in mind too.

[inkista]

Originally Posted by testarossa

I forgot to say I have just one lens that is AF: the AF 70-300 ED, wich sadly it isn't AF-S, so D90 or D7000 for the reflex...

Ah... now I see the difficulty. Yes, if your lenses are mostly Ai-S, then you're probably going to have to replace them anyhow, and using them adapted on a large-sensor compact is pretty much the same.

When adapting a manual focus lens for a different mount, you (obviously) have no electronic linkage between the body and lens. So, no EXIF information is passed, there's no control of the aperture from the body (which will necessitate shooting in either full Manual or Aperture Priority mode and using stop-down metering [i.e., having the lens actually stopped down to attain accurate metering, rather than wide open with the camera compensating on the metering for the aperture setting], and no autofocus.)

Nikon F lenses can be adapted for micro four-thirds, NEX, Canon EOS, and Pentax K with adapter rings, as well as being used directly on Nikon dSLR bodies. So you've got more choices than you probably thought.

Given that it's only a 70-300 that's AF, then I'd actually recommend going for the D3100 and replacing the 70-300 with the 70-300 VR, unless you want the shooting features of the higher end bodies. The VR alone will probably be worth the cash. And if Nikon's lens development's been anything like Canon's, I'm wiling to be it's a better optical performer, too.

Yes P&S I need one, but they're all not so good.

Yup. They're not going to give you dSLR performance. But I quite enjoy my Canon S90 (the current model is the S95). Full manual control, usable iso 800 (goes up to 3200. Actually 12800, but that's in a toy "low light" mode). 28mm equiv. wide, and shoots RAW. I've gotten quite a few usable images out of it, despite its tiny sensor limitations. Obviously, it's not an action shooting camera, but for street photography, it's a damn sight more inconspicuous than a dSLR.

The good ones (M4/3 and NEX) are expensive like a DSLR...

Yup. And the lens selection is relatively small. But you could look into finding a used/refurbed Olympus EP-1. It was the first of the micro four-thirds cameras released, and is now a previous-generation model. For a while Costco had kits for $500. There's also the Panasonic G1, GH1, G2, or GH2. The gripped style hasn't been as popular, but both of those had twist-out LCDs as well as built in EVFs, and they're also "previous generation" now. Whatever Micro four-thirds camera you get, I'd seriously say that you want to budget for the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7. The Oly 17/2.8 doesn't even come close, performance-wise.

Problem my friends is that I don't want to spend all that money in one shot, so now I have to decide between reflex and M4/3.

So, big question: what's more important to you? The street shooting or the sports shooting? If it's the street shooting, go large-sensor compact. If it's the sports, go Nikon/dSLR. That's my take on it.

[testarossa]

Ah... now I see the difficulty. Yes, if your lenses are mostly Ai-S, then you're probably going to have to replace them anyhow, and using them adapted on a large-sensor compact is pretty much the same.

I've been told that the only entry level Nikon Body that work with old MF lenses is D7000 or D300: you get metering, no need to stopdown so screen is always bright and small DOF makes the focus easy :-)

Nikon F lenses can be adapted for micro four-thirds, NEX, Canon EOS, and Pentax K with adapter rings, as well as being used directly on Nikon dSLR bodies. So you've got more choices than you probably thought.

Anyway I would still use the 50mm F1.8 and 105mm F2.5 on the Panasonic GF1, because having a small tele on that type of camera is usefull

Given that it's only a 70-300 that's AF, then I'd actually recommend going for the D3100 and replacing the 70-300 with the 70-300 VR, unless you want the shooting features of the higher end bodies. The VR alone will probably be worth the cash. And if Nikon's lens development's been anything like Canon's, I'm wiling to be it's a better optical performer, too.

Yes the 70-300 I got is not VR but on old body to have VR was useless. I could get usable shots down to 1/250 at 300mm, I'm confident that I could do the same on digital body :-)
Anyway the new 55-300 VR is an option

p. And the lens selection is relatively small. But you could look into finding a used/refurbed Olympus EP-1

The best of that category is the GF1 (yes with a 20mm F1.7), if I spend less but than I don't get the right machine I have wasted my money....

There's also the Panasonic G1, GH1, G2, or GH2.

They're almost big sa DSLR, but they lack an optical viewfinder, not attractive for me..

So, big question: what's more important to you? The street shooting or the sports shooting? If it's the street shooting, go large-sensor compact. If it's the sports, go Nikon/dSLR. That's my take on it.

Thank you

P.S.
I found an olympus E-420 at 300euros with kit lens, it's smaller that others DSLR and has an optical viewfinder, sure it's old and has just 3AF points, no body IM, but could it be an alternative to a M4/3 camera?

[OsmosisStudios]

Originally Posted by testarossa

I've been told that the only entry level Nikon Body that work with old MF lenses is D7000 or D300: you get metering, no need to stopdown so screen is always bright and small DOF makes the focus easy :-)


Anyway I would still use the 50mm F1.8 and 105mm F2.5 on the Panasonic GF1, because having a small tele on that type of camera is usefull


Yes the 70-300 I got is not VR but on old body to have VR was useless. I could get usable shots down to 1/250 at 300mm, I'm confident that I could do the same on digital body :-)
Anyway the new 55-300 VR is an option

[...]

I found an olympus E-420 at 300euros with kit lens, it's smaller that others DSLR and has an optical viewfinder, sure it's old and has just 3AF points, no body IM, but could it be an alternative to a M4/3 camera?

Point 1: The D7000 and D300/s are not considered "entry-level". They're semi-pro and pro-series DX bodies. The Entry level for Nikon is (currently) the D3100 and D5000. You'll have to double-check for AI-S compatibility, but Im fairly sure all Nikon bodies will allow you to use wide-open metering on AI-S lenses: it's AI and Pre-AI that are the issue.

Point 2: On a GF1, the 50mm f/1.8 becomes a 100mm, and the 105 becomes a 210mm equivalent. Theyre no more or less suited to a GF1 than they are a D3.

Point 3: VR is a godsend for longer focal lengths. 1/250 at 300mm is actually fairly decent, but with VR you can get down to the 1/60th range at 300mm with no ill-effects. That's especially good with the f/5.6 at the long end. You can always shoot faster, if you so choose. As for the 70-300/55-300 debate: I still prefer the build an optics of the 70-300 VR over the new 55-300.

As for your PS:
The olympus SLR series is inexpensive, but it lacks a lot of features (and isnt as easy to use) as the major players (Canon, Nikon, Sony). Its also considerably harder to find native lenses, and shooting with adapted lenses isnt always an option.

[vandergus]

Ais and Ai lenses will mount and meter properly on the D7000 and D300. Non-Ai lenses may cause damage to those same cameras if not properly modified, first.

Ai, Ais, and non-Ai lenses can all be mounted on the D3100 but will not have any metering capability.

The biggest hindrance to using your lenses on a D7000, however, is probably the small viewfinder. Manual focusing was much easier on the FE2 because of its large, bright viewfinder and the split prism focusing screen. The D7000 is optimized for autofocusing, so the split prism is removed, making it much more difficult to achieve accurate focus manually. I use manual focus lenses on my D40, but was never really happy with the process until I swapped out the original focusing screen for one with a prism. I would take some of your lenses into the store and try them out on the camera before making any decisions.

[inkista]

The best of that category is the GF1 (yes with a 20mm F1.7),

Depends on your POV. The GF1 is great, and handles better for manual shooters, but remember the E-P1 has in-body stabilization--even with adapted lenses. The GF-1 does not. With the 2x crop factor, that can come in extremely handy. And the E-P1 can also use the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7. And the E-PL1 and E-P2 have a higher resolution EVF.

They're almost big sa DSLR, but they lack an optical viewfinder, not attractive for me..

Haven't held an E-P1, then, have you? It's also "almost as big as a dSLR". I was very disappointed when I played with one in a store. The GF-1 is smaller, and the just-announced GF-2 is smaller yet (although the fact that it's not bundled with the 20/1.7 I find to be an utter dealkiller).

P.S. I found an olympus E-420 at 300euros with kit lens, it's smaller that others DSLR and has an optical viewfinder, sure it's old and has just 3AF points, no body IM, but could it be an alternative to a M4/3 camera?

No. That's a four-thirds camera. It's a full-fledged dSLR. If you're ok with a small dSLR like the E-420, I have no idea why the G1 doesn't work for you--it's even smaller and the sensor size is the same. But if you're looking for full dSLR features and lens range, and a very small-in-the-hands body, then I'd actually recommend looking at the Pentax K-x. It's even smaller than the Es.

[testarossa]

Im fairly sure all Nikon bodies will allow you to use wide-open metering on AI-S lenses: it's AI and Pre-AI that are the issue.

On D3000, D5000, D90 you get no metering at all! I tried. My MF lenses are Ai-s

On a GF1, the 50mm f/1.8 becomes a 100mm, and the 105 becomes a 210mm equivalent

I didn't try but the 105mm isn't so big, it could be well balanced on the GF1, and 200mm focal could be usufull for portraits and landscape where you want to compress the prospective

They're almost big sa DSLR, but they lack an optical viewfinder, not attractive for me..

no I was referring to Panasonic G1, GH1, G2, or GH2, dimensionally they sit in the middle between an bridge and an DSLR. I've tried these cameras, operation is very fast, just like a DSLR, but the lack of optical viewfinder put me off. I just hate the EVF, sorry...

The biggest hindrance to using your lenses on a D7000, however, is probably the small viewfinder. Manual focusing was much easier on the FE2 because of its large, bright viewfinder and the split prism focusing screen. The D7000 is optimized for autofocusing, so the split prism is removed, making it much more difficult to achieve accurate focus manually. I use manual focus lenses on my D40, but was never really happy with the process until I swapped out the original focusing screen for one with a prism.

So you can change focusing screen like on my FE2 also on digital body?

I would take some of your lenses into the store and try them out on the camera before making any decisions.

I tried on a D3000, I got all the picture out of focus. I also tried on a D3 of my friend, seemed confortable but I didn't had a chance to get see the picture on a monitor.

But strangly I tried a lot manual focusing with the 18-55 kit lens on the D3000, with camera off, and it was great, it was easy to understand when the image was in focus.

The GF1 is great, and handles better for manual shooters, but remember the E-P1 has in-body stabilization--even with adapted lenses. The GF-1 does not. With the 2x crop factor, that can come in extremely handy. And the E-P1 can also use the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7. And the E-PL1 and E-P2 have a higher resolution EVF.

yes but the olympus M4/3 are slow, compared to the GF-1, is it true that you're not gonna shot Usain Bolt with that but capturing the moment sometime is important, but most of all waiting is irritating as a reflex user.

Haven't held an E-P1, then, have you? It's also "almost as big as a dSLR". I was very disappointed when I played with one in a store. The GF-1 is smaller, and the just-announced GF-2 is smaller yet (although the fact that it's not bundled with the 20/1.7 I find to be an utter dealkiller).

yes I tried the EPL-1 wich should be similar in terms of handling. yes the 20mm f1.7 is attractive

Thank you everybody!