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Yeah, it's pretty much your camera settings.
So don't give up yet.First, at f/1.4 your depth of field is incredibly small. So it's very possible to get only the smallest detail in focus with everything else out of focus or blurry. Second, at f/1.4 you're letting in heaps of light, so your shutter speed is going to be struggling to be fast enough to cope with all that light. You said 10am in the bright sunlight, well, for example, the other day it was overcast and I was shooting at f/4 and 1/1200-1/1600 (ISO 200). So, if it were even brighter than that, it's possible you were maxing out your camera's shutter speed and there was still too much light, hence the overexposed images. Some practice with the lens should help a lot for learning just how shallow the DoF can be and how much light it lets in. Don't be discouraged, it's part of the learning process with a new lens.
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Nikon D90 | Sony NEX-3 Nikkor 18-55 | Nikkor 70-300 | Nikkor 50 f/1.4D | Lensbaby 2.0 | Nikkor 85 f/1.8D | Nikkor 105 f/2.8 VR | Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 | Nikkor 10.5 f/2.8 Fisheye | Sony 16 f/2.8 | Sony 18-55 | 2xSB600 | Orbis Ring Flash Adapter My Flickr |
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Ok...I was just thinking maybe at super bright it needs to be a HIGHER F#
Does anyone have a good article for me to read? Thanks Nicole...still upset but I hope to learn more. I am sooo use to my other lens with the F2.8 and I love it....
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~Christine~ Canon Rebel Xt BEST ever CANON 50D Lens: 75-300mm, 18-55mm & 18-200mm IS f/3.5 |
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Generally speaking you dont shoot wide-open anyways: stop the lens down a bit. You'll get better sharpness and contrast, a more useable DoF and you won't be blowing your images out! Stopping down to f/2 is one full stop, and that's still gonna leave you with a very shallow DoF. Stopping it down to f/2.8 even would still give you a good DoF (especially if your background is in the distance) and you get even better sharpness and contrast.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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You have to know your gears and understand exposure value (EV) - ISO, aperture and shutter speed
Assuming EV was 15 at the beach. Your 50D ran out of shutter speed (max at 1/8000) when you used f/1.4 @ ISO 100 (you got EV 13.9). EV 15 = f/2, ISO 100, 1/8000. If it was EV 16 then f/2.8, ISO 100, 1/8000. You can consider using a PL or ND filter. Last edited by LoveDSLR; 11-23-2009 at 06:52 AM. |
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Yeah, to be shooting wide open with an f/1.4 at the beach in the daytime, you'd probably need to have an ND filter on the lens to get the proper exposure (that's how I shoot wide open with my Olympus 50/1.2 in the daytime here in San Diego--with a 2-stop ND filter on the lens). Stopping down (using a higher f-number/smaller aperture) will help get you more DoF, as well as getting you a better exposure. Just because you have f/1.4 doesn't mean you have to use it all the time.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Thanks for all the wonderful advice and guidance. I sure need it sometimes. I guess I am so use to my other lens that I have mastered
![]() I wish I knew why they came blurry. I hope this lens doesnt give me blur all the time.
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~Christine~ Canon Rebel Xt BEST ever CANON 50D Lens: 75-300mm, 18-55mm & 18-200mm IS f/3.5 |
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Try reading this on the DPS blog "Learning About Exposure".
As for blurriness, what Nicole said: Quote:
Try using the lens by yourself under better conditions to get used to it. A little practice can make a world of difference. |
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Some AF lenses front or back focus and required fine-tuning or factory calibration. It becomes critical at f/1.4 and f/1.2.
e.g., Flickr: Discussing Just got a Sigma 50mm f/1.4 that front focuses --- should I try a new copy or give up? in Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM |
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