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I might be interested in upgrading to a new lens in the next few months. I want a really sharp, really clear lens but I don't want to spend more than $250-300. I don't care what the focal length is. I don't want a 300mm lens. I don't need to zoom. I just want crisp, vibrant photos. I don't even care if it's used, as long as it works.
I was thinking maybe the Canon 50mm f/1.8? I don't really know though. I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!! |
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yup - the canon 50mm 1.8 - plus you'll have some extra money left over to buy extra memory cards, a lens hood, remote trigger...or you can save the $150-200...
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Pat 5D, 5DMKII | lenses 24-70 2.8L, 50 1.2, 35 2.0 70-200 2.8 II, 15mm - MY WEBSITE Fan me on Facebook! You don't have to be the best, you just have to be better than last week" - Jerry Ghionis |
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Which camera and lens (s) do you have now? If you don't have the IS version of the kit (18-55) lens, then that works well with the XTi, XS, and XSI. Sells for $150 or less. I had the 50 1.8 and found it gave good results but not consistently.
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Canon XSi, 18-55 IS, 55-250 IS, 270 EX, Canon A590, Mac user |
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the cheapest option is a 50mm f/1.8
the f/1.4 is sharper, clearer and still within budget. definatley better quality. but i personally couldnt justify the difference for doubling the pricetag
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My Gear |
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I have the XS with the IS kit lens
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Never give me such fatally open-ended parameters when asking for a lens recommendation.
![]() I say the Contax Zeiss Distagon T* 28mm f/2.8--go for an AE Japanese model if you want rock-bottom prices (vs. MM or German-made). You can typically find 'em on the used market for about $200-$250 bucks, and adapter rings are in the $30-$100 range, depending on how fancy you want to get. Bonus--it's normal on a crop. You lose autofocus, and you can only shoot with stop-down metering in M or Av, and it's not fast enough really for available light shooting, and it exhibits a tiny bit of barrel distortion. Also, its performance wider than f/4 is not so terrific, but once it's stopped down to f/8--omg, you don't need to sharpen. ![]() ![]() Sharp enough to cut yourself. But not, I hasten to add, at a per-pixel level in the way most folks judge sharpness. With Zeiss, it's more about the microcontrast being so high that edges are more sharply defined. In essence, doing in the glass what software typically does to sharpen.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Quote:
Without a focal length limit, I'd say an 85 f/1.8 for the canons. Amazing little lens. |
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