should I move up from my EOS 400?

[mapgirl]

I've had my Canon Rebel (EOS 400D) for a few years now and have been happy with it. And, up until now, I've opted to buy a new lens with my money rather than a new camera body. However, I'm wondering if the time has come to move up (a little).

I did a side-by-side comparison on DPreview.com of my Rebel, the T2i (EOS 550D), the T3i (EOS 600) and the 60D. Besides the pixel count (yeah, I know, they don't, but still . . . ) , the max. resolution, and the live view capability, I'm not seeing loads of differences. (I don't use the screen except as a menu) So if I did buy a new body, the T2i seems the most sensible choice. It's cheaper than the other two, but doesn't appear to be all that different (though it's lighter than my 400D, which seems odd). Am I missing something? I mostly do botanical macros and landscapes. Suggestions?

[Doug Pardee]

If the XTi/400D is doing the job for you, there's no reason to replace it. If there's something that it's not doing for you, we'll need to know that in order to advise.

I'm not a believer in upgrading just because something is shinier than what you currently have. My XT/350D still outperforms me.

[mapgirl]

Originally Posted by Doug Pardee

If the XTi/400D is doing the job for you, there's no reason to replace it. If there's something that it's not doing for you, we'll need to know that in order to advise.

I'm not a believer in upgrading just because something is shinier than what you currently have. My XT/350D still outperforms me.

Thanks for responding, Doug. I know I'm definitely a little drawn to the "newer, shinier" component. Like most people, I want better pictures--which I realize depends on me. But I was wondering if the new camera might help with better (sharper) resolution when I enlarge heavily cropped macro images. Also, my 400d doesn't seem to let me switch to a 2 second self-timer--I use the timer when I shoot macro to keep the camera stable.

[inkista]

Originally Posted by mapgirl

...
I did a side-by-side comparison on DPreview.com of my Rebel, the T2i (EOS 550D), the T3i (EOS 600) and the 60D. Besides the pixel count (yeah, I know, they don't, but still . . . ) , the max. resolution, and the live view capability, I'm not seeing loads of differences. (I don't use the screen except as a menu) So if I did buy a new body, the T2i seems the most sensible choice. It's cheaper than the other two, but doesn't appear to be all that different (though it's lighter than my 400D, which seems odd). Am I missing something? I mostly do botanical macros and landscapes. Suggestions?

Yeah, you missed a few key feature difference, but they may not matter to you.

The T2i and T3i are the same "tier" as your 400D--they're just iterations of the same design, so you're unlikely to see a huge difference between the models in the specs, aside from new generations of sensors. But, HD video capability, and liveview are two big features all three of these cameras have over your 400D. And you have to kind of tease them out of the specs.

The T3i, in addition, has the flip-out LCD, and a wireless flash master in the pop-up. This is a huge feature, if you're into off-camera flash lighting. Without this master, if you buy, say, a 430EX II, and want to fire it off-camera using Canon's wireless system, you'd have to also buy a 550EX, 580EX, 580EX II, or ST-E2, anywhere from $250-$500, or go with all-manual radio slaves. With the pop-up as your master, you don't need any additional equipment.

The 60D is a tier up, and has a substantially different ergonomic setup. The two big additions to the dRebel interface are the top LCD, which let you quickly see/set your main settings of iso, aperture, shutter speed, metering mode, and drive mode; and the thumb wheel on the back, where you currently have four-way buttons (there's also a smaller directional controller for setting your AF point directly, but that's less important). Having two wheels makes life a lot simpler. When you're shooting in Manual, you have one wheel for shutter speed, the other for aperture. No more having to hold down the Av/± button to swap "modes". It's more direct and faster. It's also a larger camera, with a better feel in the hand for some people. Other gracenote features are things like being able to set white balance by Kelvins, and having custom modes on the dial, where you can program in settings as special modes for yourself.

Whether it's worth it or not, though, is an individual question that only you can answer, based on how much money you have to blow, what features you're looking for in an upgrade, and what you shoot.

[ErikUngerPhotography]

Like what has been said, if you don't have a reason to upgrade, then don't.

There need to be key features missing from your camera to warrant an upgrade. Such features could be FPS, higher ISO, more/better AF points, etc.

It also depends on what you shoot. I currently have a 5D II. It is amazing for landscapes, portraits and just about any studio situation. I have no need to upgrade to the 5D III (whenever that comes out), but for my sports photography I would like to pick up a 7D. The faster FPS and AF (more cross type points as well) along with that extra "reach" is nice for sports and wildlife.

Unless there is something that bugs you about your current body or the new bodies have something you need, just keep going with the lenses you need.

[Preeb]

Originally Posted by mapgirl

I've had my Canon Rebel (EOS 400D) for a few years now and have been happy with it. And, up until now, I've opted to buy a new lens with my money rather than a new camera body. However, I'm wondering if the time has come to move up (a little).

I did a side-by-side comparison on DPreview.com of my Rebel, the T2i (EOS 550D), the T3i (EOS 600) and the 60D. Besides the pixel count (yeah, I know, they don't, but still . . . ) , the max. resolution, and the live view capability, I'm not seeing loads of differences. (I don't use the screen except as a menu) So if I did buy a new body, the T2i seems the most sensible choice. It's cheaper than the other two, but doesn't appear to be all that different (though it's lighter than my 400D, which seems odd). Am I missing something? I mostly do botanical macros and landscapes. Suggestions?

If you are into macros, the articulated screen on the T3i and 60D should be of value to you. Using live view with the 10x zoom, you can get a better idea just where you are focused, and being able to move the screen lets you get into positions which you couldn't reach very well with the T2i. The off camera flash should be a help for that too.

[Doug Pardee]

Originally Posted by mapgirl

Also, my 400d doesn't seem to let me switch to a 2 second self-timer--I use the timer when I shoot macro to keep the camera stable.

A remote shutter release is a lot less expensive than a new DSLR.

[inkista]

Originally Posted by mapgirl

...Also, my 400d doesn't seem to let me switch to a 2 second self-timer--I use the timer when I shoot macro to keep the camera stable.

Missed this. Have you tried putting the 400D into mirror lock-up mode? That should give you access to the 2-second timer.

[mapgirl]

Originally Posted by inkista

Missed this. Have you tried putting the 400D into mirror lock-up mode? That should give you access to the 2-second timer.

OK, now I feel INCREDIBLY stupid. Yes, I always use mirror lock-up for my tripod, macro shots. Apparently I haven't a clue how long 2 seconds is. It seems long to me---however I just tried the self-timer without the lock-up and 10 seconds really is a lot longer.
So sorry about that.

Additional question: does the move from a Digic 2 processor to a Digic 4 make a significant difference? If so, what kind?

[tinffx]

I just upgraded to a t2i because I came across one with a price I couldn't pass on. I have a 350d/xt, and it does the job quite nicely. But my Iphone 4s takes a better picture in low light with no flash (at the same resolution to boot)...Which is where I take about a quarter of my pictures (events, restaurants etc). I hate taking candids with a flash.

I am also a bit on the frugal side which is hard to do with this hobby. But I always stay 1 model older than current because you can usually track down pretty good deals on those.