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We can probably help more if you can post some examples along with the EXIF data.
Noting the lens information would also be a good idea. My guess would be that your shutter speeds may be too low, but we won't know for sure without more information.
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There are several reasons an image can be unsharp.
1) Too slow of a shutter speed 2) Holding the camera and lens wrong 3) Focus is slightly off 4) If shooting RAW, the images are going to be slightly soft. RAW images require a little bit of sharpening. |
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Three most likely culprits:
1. You don't know how to hold the camera, yet. 2. You don't know how fast a shutter speed you need, yet. My personal limit is about 1/30s or 1/focal length, whichever is faster. (I.e., with a 200mm lens, I need 1/200s, with an 18mm lens, I need 1/30s). VR/IS can compensate for a stop or two, but not too much more than that, and of course, that's only against camera-shake blur, not subject motion blur. 3. Misfocus. Just because the lights went off doesn't necessarily mean your subject is in focus, particularly if you're using the full AF grid. Which square went off can be key, and sometimes selecting the specific AF point you want to use will make a huge amount of difference.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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I can only try and not sound like a prick at the moment but I'm a little mad at Canon. I found that the pictures were coming in sharper at a smaller resolution other than the Large (18MP option) I've heard that this kind of thing happens with cheap televisions to. And although it may have been a lens issue or me, or whatever, I figured that if I had to pay ~$800 and still use Photoshop to sharpen pix for just about every shot then, I'd rather have something more reliable (especially for the price). So I'm getting the NIKON D5100. Same as what Ken Rockwell uses
As far as I know he's pretty credible. Although the Nikon may not be made in Japan, I do know it takes sharper pix because my Dad owns one and he can hardly see. And his pictures come out tack sharp! I also found that the Nikon has a few creative special features that kind put Photoshop in the camera use. However, I do understand that 99.7% of pictures still have to be sharpened in a photo editing program for professional prints and what not, but I wanted something that is more "independent from Photoshop" Call me lazy or whatever but I don't want to sit in front of a computer all day adjusting what ~$800 should have already adjusted. At least not to the extent that this camera was making me do it at. Sorry Canon. People, please wish me luck with Nikon! I would post pix but I don't want to hear it.... I feel it's time for a change anyway, hehe.
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Sorry if I'm high jacking your thread but I wanna know whats going wrong because I can't go get another camera or lens.... Thanks a bunch
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08Raven>
There's nothing wrong with switching from Canon to Nikon (both Japanese companies btw), especially if your dad has equipment he can share. But bear in mind, you can shoot with a $2000 camera and a tack sharp lens, if your technique is wrong your pictures are going to be poor. Now not having seen any examples I don't know if that's the case with your technique or not. Although I will say that the D5100 and the T2i are fairly comparable cameras. The 5100 competes directly with the T3i, and the differences between the T2i and T3i are fairly minimal. Barring a dud copy, if you're having difficulty with the Canon side switching to the Nikon model in the same price bracket isn't going to get you a world of difference. You said you were shooting in the full 18MB size on the T2i, that means you were shooting in RAW. RAW files are not converted to JPEG in the camera, and as such they will always require more post processing to look their best. The same will be true of the Nikon if you shoot those files in RAW. Post work is not limited to RAW files either mind you, there's almost no shot you can take that won't be improved by some basic post processing (levels, curves, etc). dmann> Examples? With EXIF maybe?
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I honestly can't find much to complain about sharpness-wise in that photo. I can clearly see a lot of detail in the little fuzz on his cheeks, his pacifier is likewise very sharp and detailed, and you can see the plane of focus in bits where his hair is catching the light.
The 50mm f/1.8 is a sharp lens, fairly sharp wide open and very sharp at f/2.8 and smaller apertures (higher f numbers), and this is a pretty good example of that. I noticed your examples in your other thread, the other thing I would mention particularly in regards to the 2nd family photo is to watch your shutter speed when you get down to 1/80, 1/60, or slower. The 50mm lens doesn't have a stabilizer, and even small hand vibrations can blur up a shot when using those slower speeds. Be aware of your handholding technique. If you have one available, a tripod isn't a bad idea either.
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Canon EOS 60D, Canon EOS T3i, Canon A-1, Canon AE-1 Program Canon EF-S 18-55mm (x2), Canon EF-S 55-250mm http://500px.com/VeritasImageryNW/photos http://veritasimagerynw.smugmug.com/ |
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