What’s Your Preference?

alarmc · #1 (**permalink**) 04-09-2010, 02:40 AM

Long story as short as possible. Have a T1i and am ready for a flash. Always used a nice flash with off camera bracket for film--still have the bracket, but nothing else works with digital. My primary will be indoor family shots, some church plays, school items, and some outdoor fill flash, but I do like no flash whenever I can--I cannot say that I will be doing off camera shoots and slave work at this point. So I have done too much reading--I have narrowed the choices to both Canon speedlights--the 580exII, 430exII, or the Nissin di866 or a Metz-48/58. Price is a little issue, but I am saving and am looking for a great flash at a great price to do flash work--period. So the simple question--what out of the choices listed would be my best option. Thank you very much for helping me out of the quandary.

OsmosisStudios · #2 (**permalink**) 04-09-2010, 02:52 AM

If you intend on using the flash on camera or on a bracket with a TLL cord, get the 580exII. If you want to do studio stuff with flash off-camera, then the off-brand flashes will be fine: just add some radio triggers.

inkista · #3 (**permalink**) 04-09-2010, 04:57 AM

Since it sounds like you want to do a lot of on-camera flash, I'd say the 580EXII or (if budget's a big concern), a used 580EX. With on-camera, if you plan to bounce, the 360° swivel and additional power will come in handy, and over the 430EXII, having the control wheel on the back, rather than four-way buttons just makes it easier to deal with.

The main reason you'd probably want to get a Mk II over the Mk I, is that the T1i will let you control the MkIIs from the camera menu. The MkIs don't do the camera menu control deal, and you have to use the flash's back.

For websites on using flash on-camera, I'd recommend Neil van Niekerk's Tangents blog, and its flash photography techniques section.

BCampbell · #4 (**permalink**) 04-09-2010, 01:50 PM

The advice already here is great; generally get the best you can afford. Your camera and the high-end Canon Speedlites are designed to work together, so you can take great advantage of that.

At the other end of the spectrum, I'm shooting with an obsolete body and wanted a cheap flash solution for an upcoming indoor event shoot. Not being able to adjust flash exposure comepnsation in camera (yes, really), I would have to splash for the 430 or 580, for something that I honestly will not use very often, at least not to its full capabilities.

My solution was to go old school -- really old school. I found a range of old Sunpak thyristor strobes that I could just use in full manual. The 333D, 433D, 383 Super are good ones to start with. Picked up a 333D for $30 on ebay, works great though it's seen a bit of action, and with a $15 hotshoe cord I'm set. 90 degree bounce, 180 degree swivel. My friends will hate me for this but this is from a quick on-camera test on the day I got it, no real practice.

Again, best to get the best you can afford. I just wanted to dip my toe in the waters and have an extra tool to do some fill at an event, where I knew I could use it. $50 to do that seems like money well spent. There are a lot of caveats to this and some research is needed. You need to look up the flash voltage as some of the older models will fry our DSLR electronics. And working fully manual is obviously much more of a commitment. So, I'm not necessarily recommending you do this, but if it sounds intriguing at all, try some more research.

inkista · #5 (**permalink**) 04-10-2010, 02:39 AM

Yeah, I have a Nikon SB-26 that I've pulled the TTL pins off, that I'll occasionally stick on the hotshoe.

Two things to note when you start researching.

1) The 6V limit everybody pushes is probably bogus if you have a Canon dSLR made after 2005. That limit was only on the first generation of camera bodies, and ±250V has been ostensibly quoted (from Chuck Westfall) as the actual sync voltage limit. I also note that that's the stated synch voltage limit in Nikon manuals for Nikon cameras. Whether you choose to believe the 6V limit or not is up to you, and it may be a matter of hotshoe vs. PC connector. But if you're agonizing over a flash that someone's measured at 8V or something, I'd say don't worry about it.

2) You may not need a bracket, given that we now have 360° swivel and very clean high iso settings. Neil van Niekerk says he no longer uses one.

alarmc · #6 (**permalink**) 04-10-2010, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inkista

Since it sounds like you want to do a lot of on-camera flash, I'd say the 580EXII or (if budget's a big concern), a used 580EX. With on-camera, if you plan to bounce, the 360° swivel and additional power will come in handy, and over the 430EXII, having the control wheel on the back, rather than four-way buttons just makes it easier to deal with.

The main reason you'd probably want to get a Mk II over the Mk I, is that the T1i will let you control the MkIIs from the camera menu. The MkIs don't do the camera menu control deal, and you have to use the flash's back.

For websites on using flash on-camera, I'd recommend Neil van Niekerk's Tangents blog, and its flash photography techniques section.

Thank you to everyone for the information that I had assumed--save a few more days for the 580exII. This is excactly what I was looking for in advice fro experts.

BCampbell · #7 (**permalink**) 04-10-2010, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inkista

1) The 6V limit everybody pushes is probably bogus if you have a Canon dSLR made after 2005. That limit was only on the first generation of camera bodies, and ±250V has been ostensibly quoted (from Chuck Westfall) as the actual sync voltage limit. I also note that that's the stated synch voltage limit in Nikon manuals for Nikon cameras. Whether you choose to believe the 6V limit or not is up to you, and it may be a matter of hotshoe vs. PC connector. But if you're agonizing over a flash that someone's measured at 8V or something, I'd say don't worry about it.

Yes, it's all iffy. I do have one of the ancient cameras with a 6V limit, unfortunately. And supposedly some older flashed even push over 250V. But, a little patient googling tends to sort all that out.

It's also worth noting that once you're full manual, it doesn't matter what brand the flash is or what brand it's dedicated for; as you said, just disable all but the center pin.

To the OP: smart move, good luck!

inkista · #8 (**permalink**) 04-10-2010, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BCampbell

Yes, it's all iffy. I do have one of the ancient cameras with a 6V limit, unfortunately.

Augh! But at least there are still options. Or, in a pinch, the Wein SafeSync.

Quote:

And supposedly some older flashe[s] even push over 250V.

Yep. Although you may not run into capacitors that can kill you, certain models are notorious for being past 250V, like some older units of the (non-HV) Vivitar 285.

Quote:

It's also worth noting that once you're full manual, it doesn't matter what brand the flash is or what brand it's dedicated for; as you said, just disable all but the center pin.!

Well, unless your camera/flash is a Sony/Minolta, in which case you gotta get an adapter.

One more minor note. I've got the RF-602 radio triggers. They're rated at 12V, alas. It's not just your flash you have to worry about frying.