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The worked image looks fine to me. I like the softness. There is one problem with it and that is light. When editing shots you need to be aware of where the light is falling from. In this shot it just happens to come from the area at the back, so what you have done makes it look false. You would be better off bringing it in within normal white limits, 254.254.254, so it can print correctly, or do as kencaleno has done and clone out the bad spot so it does not look obvious.
Here is another version, cropped, and adjusted exposure with Camera Raw... ![]() I din't worry about cloning the bright area, just brought it within limits. Last edited by RoyL; 03-21-2009 at 06:36 AM. |
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I just wanted to say, I like what you did and even more so that you took us, step by step on how you did it
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Olympus user, Fuji E900, a canon & last but not least a Minolta 35mm and some really old large format box cameras.Not to mention a whole bunch of other stuff. Paint Shop Pro X3, CS3,CS5, Portrait Professional, Topaz Adjust, Lucis Art and the list goes on........ www.alockintime.com |
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I used an action I made in photoshop, here it is,broken down into parts: 1. Ctrl+J 2. filter> other> high pass 1.7 pixels 3. Change blend mode to "hard light" 4. Ctrl+Shift+N 5. Edit> Fill - black 100% 6. Click on eraser tool-set brush size 300 7. Click once in centre of blacked-out image 8. change blend mode to "soft light" Adjust opacity to suit 9. Flatten and save Regards, Ken |
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Thanks a bunch for your responces, I am learning so it helps to write step by step what I am doing, its ingraining the steps in my head (: |
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