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Nice result! You kept the feeling of the original and managed to restore it quite a bit. The shot is absolutely priceless, and I think it's worth any amount of work to preserve such a memory.
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Nikon D80, 18-200, 105 macro VR, 18-55, 50 f/1.8; Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 SB600 x 2; Canon A570 IS; Bonica XP Neon Underwater Strobe Film Cameras: Lomo LC-A+, Diana+, Canon AE-1 OK to edit and repost pics for DPS forums! flickr; ihardlyknowher; My most interesting pics on flickriver |
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Two tiny details might be worth considering:
1. There is a dark line in the bottom right. You have almost cropped it out - a touch of the clone brush would finish the job without making the picture any smaller. 2. That area between them is very bright (probably flash bouncing off the background). You could use a translucent layer to tone it down a bit. That will draw attention away from the distance between them and back to the connection. Wulf |
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Good catch on that line. Now it's going to bug me.
As far as the translucent layer, I'm not sure how to go about that. When it comes to modifying portions of the image, I'm always paranoid about noticeable effects at the boundaries. Noticeable "edge effects" is one of those things that drives me crazy in touched up photos; any suggestions on how to avoid them? |
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You can start with something too solid but then experiment with different layer modes and opacity settings so it blends well in the centre. Then apply a layer mask, probably starting fully black (transparent) and use a soft tool like the airbrush to paint white (opacity) back in.
Wulf
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Wulf Forrester-Barker << Sites: blog / flickr >> Gear: Nikon D40, Nikon AFS 18-55mm f/3.5 - 5.6G, Nikon Series E 50mm f/1.8, Nikon AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6G, Vivitar 90mm f/2.5 macro, Raynox DCR-250, Lensbaby 2.0k, SB600 Last edited by wulf; 04-09-2008 at 06:46 PM. |
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Mr Guy,
Here's another view of the results one may get from adding a layer of gray, in Darken Mode, at about 10% and adjusting Contrast and Darken until that telltale flash spot blends better. After that, it's just what you did, cloning out defects. ![]() Larger: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3160/...051ee806_b.jpg Out of curiosity, I boosted the red and yellow, and the skin tones and red handle of the shears came out some. I selected the couple and inverted to adjust only the background, adding just a touch of green, and then lightened the couple a little more also. ![]() You're right about this being one of those things you may go back to time and again, and you have really good material to practice with, and experiment. Thanks for showing this and I hope these two results will inspire further work on your other photos. It's a noble endeavor.
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OK to re-edit and repost photo(s) only on DPS forums Proud user of a Fuji FP S3100, Nikon P90, a Canon T3i, and persistence. Last edited by jiminyClickit; 07-02-2008 at 06:22 AM. |
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This is the best by far in my opinion.
I was going to suggest also eliminating the pinkish cast by colorizing to a sepia or brown tone. Go to Image / Adjustments / Hue-Saturation; tick the Colorize box and move Hue to 20 and Saturation to 10. Adjust and season to taste. That would be an appropriate treatment for this nice old photo. |
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Pinkish cast is added after first example, as a "wonder what this would do" moment. First one is also closer to original and rotogravure I remember seeing as a child in the Sunday papers.
Hoping Mr Guy returns soon, to see what his eyes tell him (as he looks at his original).
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OK to re-edit and repost photo(s) only on DPS forums Proud user of a Fuji FP S3100, Nikon P90, a Canon T3i, and persistence. |
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