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One of my first shots that really amazed me
![]() Taken at Olympic park, NSW in Australia. ![]() Info. Camera - Fujiflim S5600 Point and shoot Manual Mode F/stop - F/8 Shutter speed - 1/2000 ISO - 800 Thanks for looking Please critique. |
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Yeah i do post on SR.
And also. I couldnt take a photo with a shutter of over 1/2000 as i only have a point and shoot, the maximum shutter speed is 1/2000. And auto looked god awful. So i guess this is one of the best shots i could have gotten, give or take the ISO |
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the higher the ISO the more sensative your camera's sensor is to light meaning the brighter a picture could be. if you shot at 1/2000 at ISO 100, it probably would have been exposed properly.
i think the question originally posed to you was why were you shooting at such a high ISO to begin with (especially in the middle of the day)? typically you want to shoot with as low of an ISO as possible to reduce noise. especially on P&S cameras which have smaller sensors and are more prone to noise.
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-Matt Canon 30D, 17-40 f4L, 50 f1.8, Sigma 70-200 f2.8 DG Macro, 30 f1.4, battery grip, 430EX speedlight, Nikon SB-25, wireless transmitters/remotes, various filters, etc, etc. msm fotki OR msm flickr |
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Quote:
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CANON 50D, Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS Lens, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM, Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM, Canon Speedlite 430EX II, Manfrotto 190CLB Tripod Legs, Manfrotto 679B MonoPod Check out my Project 365 at My Flickr |
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correct me if I'm wrong
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7 d | g l a s s | n e u t r a l d e n s i t y | l i g h t | p e r c e p t i o n |
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To the original question.
I believe my camera just has auto ISO and decides on whatever it wants. Also. I would also like someone to explain the Sunny 16 rule clearly please so next time i go to Olympic park i'll try to take the shot again. Thanks for the critique. |
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Hi,
Your camera has Aperture as well as Shutter speed priority in addition to the Manual and Auto settings. Lets start with Auto. The meter in the camera can only give you an "average" reading of the scene. When faced with unusual lighting or contrast ranges, you have to figure out a way to interpret what the camera exposure meter is telling you if the initial reaults are not acceptable. When you said the shot in Auto looked "awful", what did you really mean? Was it terribly underexposed (too dark). Do you have that image file you can post? Using the Sunny 16 Rule in the manual mode, you could have started with ISO 100 which would give you 1/100 second at f/16. (Make a fraction out of the ISO and it becomes your shutter speed combined with f/16 for a bright , sunny day.) However, I believe your camera lens only stops down to f/8 so you had another option. It would be to increase your shutter speed to 1/400 second (every time you double the shutter speed, you cut the amount of light in half.) Then, based on how the shot looked on the LCD, you could adjust the shutter speed and aperture. Once you become familiar with the relationship between aperture and shutter speed for a given ISO, then you can manually adjust according to the scene. For example, at ISO 100 all of the following would be equivalent exposure combinations with your camera and its max f/stop of f/8 and 1/2000 sec shutter speed: 1/400 at f/8 1/1000 at f/5.6 1/2000 at f/4.0 The difference between them is how 'frozen' the water would look at a higher shutter speed compared to the increase in depth-of-field one would get going from f/4.0 down to the smaller aperture of f/8. So you can see how the Sunny 16 rule is used as a starting point. You could also use the meter readings in Auto as a starting point based on the scene you are shooting. I hope this helps in some small way. If not, don't hesitate to ask more questions.
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Sincerely, Lee -clockdoc- |
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Thanks clockdoc.
Greatly appreciated. I believe i'm going back next week on sunday, if i do ill try and take the photo again according to the sunny 16 rule and post the results if i like them. Try and keep the topic alive until then i guess. Thanks to all for the critique. |
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