|
||||
|
Yeah, I agree with Todd. With a bit of work you can change that blue to something that matches the sky better. Hope it's ok, but I did a bit of work on it to see what it would look like and came up with this:
![]() What I did was: 1. Duplicated the original layer and adjusted the hue/saturation of the blue channel (added a bit to the selection by clicking on one of the blue areas of rock) and changed it essentially to yellow (+180). Then I set the opacity of this layer to 80% 2. It seemed too yellow, so I added a photo filter layer with a warming filter 3. It still seemed too yellow, but it was getting there, so I did a selective colour adjustment to the yellow channel and increased the amount of magenta (+60) 4. The green of the plant finally seemed to stand out just a bit too much, so I did a hue / saturation adjustment layer over the top of the whole thing with an adjustment to the green channel (Saturation: -20, Lightness: -17). Still seems a bit yellow in the hills, but hopefully this gives you an idea of where you can go with it.
__________________
Nikon D90 | Sony NEX-3 Nikkor 18-55 | Nikkor 70-300 | Nikkor 50 f/1.4D | Lensbaby 2.0 | Nikkor 85 f/1.8D | Nikkor 105 f/2.8 VR | Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 | Nikkor 10.5 f/2.8 Fisheye | Sony 16 f/2.8 | Sony 18-55 | 2xSB600 | Orbis Ring Flash Adapter My Flickr |
|
|||
Depending on the specifics, such as which of the images you use to make the layer mask, you may need to invert the b/w layer before applying it as a layer mask. If you apply it and the mask needs to be inverted, you can invert it while it is a mask. This technique can be a little tricky. It's well worth experimenting with. Sometimes it is easier to just draw the layer mask, but with subjects such as hair, this way will give a more realistic result.
__________________
Tibby's Photography Tutorials
Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO | Basic Exposure Settings | Using P, A, S and M Modes How to use Manual Flash | White Balance | Bracketing |
|
||||
|
yikes, sound srather complicated but am sure gonna give it a try tomorrow after work. Thank you so much!
__________________
Olympus user, Fuji E900, a canon & last but not least a Minolta 35mm and some really old large format box cameras.Not to mention a whole bunch of other stuff. Paint Shop Pro X3, CS3,CS5, Portrait Professional, Topaz Adjust, Lucis Art and the list goes on........ www.alockintime.com |
|
||||
|
Yeah, I agree with Todd. With a bit of work you can change that blue to something that matches the sky better. Hope it's ok, but I did a bit of work on it to see what it would look like and came up with this:
Nicole of course its ok. I appreciate all the help i can get. I'm just learning all this and cant tell you how helpful this forum has been to me
__________________
Olympus user, Fuji E900, a canon & last but not least a Minolta 35mm and some really old large format box cameras.Not to mention a whole bunch of other stuff. Paint Shop Pro X3, CS3,CS5, Portrait Professional, Topaz Adjust, Lucis Art and the list goes on........ www.alockintime.com |
|
|||
|
windrider86, when you take a shot with a long exposure like this one you should enable Noise Reduction on your E-500. It will really help get a clearer exposure, it'll get rid of red/blue/white speckles that are throughout the image. It makes post production easier as well since you don't have to match the oddities in your own modified areas.
A smaller aperture would help get rid of the depth of field difference of your foreground and your background. Also something to consider when you take a shot like this with a large variance in dynamic range take another exposure (much shorter one) and you can blend the well exposed sky with the well exposed subject. Kind of unhelpful in your current situation but just some thoughts for any future shoots you do : ) |
|
||||
|
Thank you everyone for your wonderful advice. I hadnt attempted taking a picture in the dark before so i tried all kinds of different settings. Altho I had a tripod a good portion of them seemed to come out blurry.
This is the one I liked the best out of all of them. Wish i could go back and do it again but theres always the next bridge i can expierment on
__________________
Olympus user, Fuji E900, a canon & last but not least a Minolta 35mm and some really old large format box cameras.Not to mention a whole bunch of other stuff. Paint Shop Pro X3, CS3,CS5, Portrait Professional, Topaz Adjust, Lucis Art and the list goes on........ www.alockintime.com |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Each day we send out a quick email to thousands of DPS readers to notify them of updates. This email is just short excerpt of the first few lines of our latest post with a link if you want to read it all. You can unsubscribe from this this service at any time.
This service is provided by a third party (Feedburner) and you can subscribe to it by leaving your email address in the following field and confirming your subscription when you get an email asking you to do so.
Enter your email address for
Daily Updates:
For those wanting a weekly summary of what happens on this site this free email newsletter is probably your best option. It includes a summary of the tips posted to the site each week. This newsletter is subscribed to by over 25000 readers (many who also subscribe to the other options above) - come join the community!
To subscribe to this weekly newsletter simply add your email address to the following field and then follow the confirmation prompts. You will be able to unsubscribe at any time.
Enter your email address for
Free Weekly Newsletter: