Panning and shooting

[Quo Fan]

I'm a mountain biker, and I like to bring my little point and shoot with me when I ride. I'm learning how to pan and shoot, one to help me become a better photographer, and to help the people I shoot with their technique. Here, the subject is learning how to "huck", which is to jump off an object and land smoothly. The idea is not to land with the front wheel first, of have it land just before the rear wheel.

Anyway, that is the back story of this photo. She is hucking off the small rock just behind her.


Of all the shots I took that day, this is the clearest.
Camera model: PENTAX Optio A10
Date/Time: 2007:07:29 09:56:01
Resolution: 800 x 600
Flash used: No (auto)
Focal length: 7.9mm (35mm equivalent: 38mm)
Exposure time: 0.0063 s (1/160)
Aperture: f/2.8
ISO equiv.: 100
Whitebalance: Auto
Metering Mode: matrix
Exposure: program (auto)

[ELAY]

Hey Quo Fan --

For instructional shots these will work just fine. If you are working towards putting something up on your wall, here are four thoughts:

1. From your title I wondered if you were going deliberately for a motion blur look. Once I read your description, I wasn't so sure. If you were, then I would suggest you experiment with slower shutter speeds to get more of an exaggerated panning effect.

2. If you are trying to freeze action/get sharper shots, you want a quicker shutter speed. Because you are in the woods (I think) there is not a lot of light, which is pushing your shutter speed down. In this situation, you should try boosting your ISO to at least 400, which will give you more flexibility in your other controls (higher ISO means you need less light to make your exposure).

2. If you are looking at any improvement in post-processing, your colours are a bit washed out. A very simple adjustment in levels, just defining a true black point and maybe even sliding the white slider in a bit (the sky is already blown, so why not) would get rid of the film/haze/washout look.

3. Exposure. Shooting out of the darker woods into the sun (or even bright clouds) is a challenge. Your subject tends to be darker than you would like, and the sky tends to go brighter. Your camera actually did a pretty good job exposing for your rider, but I would experiment (if your course/training area permits) with different angles between you, the sun/sky, and the rider. Finding a patch of light to shoot your rider in might help a lot.

EL

[Quo Fan]

1) I was going for the motion blurr look, I want to freeze the rider to give the feeling of speed.

2) I really haven't played around with the manual settings of my point and shoot, as that is what I bring when I ride.

2a) I did no post on this shot.

3) Most if the time, I have no choice where I shoot from. Sometimes, the worst lighting is the best angle to get the shot. I generally don't do any post no my shots, though I really should.

[ELAY]

If you are going for motion blur you need to really drop your shutter speed. The idea is to have the background in motion, with a bit of a freeze on your rider. It can be hard to do.

This is an example from a stock site.

I would think you would want to be at 1/30 or below to get real motion blur.
EL

[clockdoc]

One tip I have found helpful in doing a pan shot, once you settle on the choice of shutter speeds (as EL suggested, the slower the better) is to set yourself up in a position such that you can have a full range of motion from side to side. As the subject approaches your position beging the pas allowing some 'breathing room' in front of the subject. Then slowly squeeze off your exposure (and here is the keey) keep panning with the subject all the way through the arc you established. Too many photographers simply stop after the press the shutter release but by continuing the pan all the way through, I think you will become more successful. Experiment with those slower shutter speeds as the blur of the background will enhance the illusion of speed.