flowers and bees

[Bo_]

This afternoon I took a few pictures of flower - and I was so lucky to catch bees in the flowers.. I like that the bees are very sharp - but any hints on improvements??
I know that next time I should find a bee that will look towards the camera!

[jiminyClickit]

Bo_,

Without luck or patience (better to have both) bees are tough. I recently found that, on occasion a bee will find the underside of a branch, hook its front legs onto the bark,and spend up to 5 minutes "bathing" with its other four. If you find one, you get all parts, eyes, wings (still), in good focus. Good shooting here, especially first.

[wulf]

Yes - if you can get the bee to pose and smile then you get extra points. However, these shots have come out well (with Jiminy, I like the first one most).

Wulf

[clockdoc]

Nice shots, Bo! You are becoming a master at these close-ups. What kit did you use for these shots? Any external lighting?

[Bo_]

Hi Lee -clockdoc-

I did not need any external lighting this time - the sun was giving a lot of light and the flower was pointing just the right way. But the main reason is that I don't own any external light source. And as an beginner I don't know what to buy.

Could you (or anyone else) give advise on that subject? a cheap versatile external light source ??

[sybren]

You could try the Vivitar 285HV:

The HV is a very important part of the name. The original Vivitar 285 is not safe for your digital camera, the newer 285HV is. The most important difference is the now lower than 6-volt synch voltage in the new version. The 285HV ($90, street) offers a normal, wide or zoom setting (slide the front of the flash out). Yes it looks like your father’s flash, but its simplicity is also its beauty.

http://flash.popphoto.com/blog/2007/...e_back_th.html

It's also offered by Strobist as part of some well-priced kits at http://mpex.com/Strobist/

[underexposed]

I'm not here to criticise but just to comment. Those are very nice, and the first one is my favourite, too!

[clockdoc]

Hi Bo,
Since you say you are a 'beginner', unless you are planning to shoot an event that requires a stronger flash, I would stick with the onboard flash for the moment and concentrate on learning how to use available light and reflectors to your advantage. I can't overemphasize the importance of studying light and how it affects the subject. The onboard flash should be adequate for most all your current needs. More expensive units give you more carrying power (some out to 10 meters or more), faster recycle time (handy for weddings or sports activities and varying degrees of automation such as true through-the-lens metering. Sybren makes a good point about voltage so be sure the unit you buy is right for your camera.
I just read a review of your fine camera and see that it does not have a hot shoe but requires an add-on bracket to mount an external flash. From the review:"The Powershot S3 is also compatible with the Canon High-Power HF-DC1 auxiliary flash unit, which increases flash range up to 23 feet. "

"The manual popup E-TTL speedlight has modes for normal auto, auto with red-eye reduction, forced fill, forced off and slow synchro with 1st and 2nd curtain. And Flash Exposure Compensation of ± 2.0 stops in 1/3- stop increments with FE lock function. "

The working flash range is:

Normal: 50 cm - 5.2 m (1.6 - 17 ft.) (W),
90 cm - 4.0 m (3.0 - 13 ft.) (T)
Macro: 30 - 50 cm (12 in. - 1.6 ft.) (W)
(ISO speed = Auto)

After reding the capabilities of the camera's onboard flash, I would recommend learning how to use it to its fullest advantage before considering purchasing an external flash. I know you have been experimenting with flash and motion from your earlier work so keep heading in that direction. I'll be happy to help where I can.

[Bo_]

Hi Lee -clockdoc-

Yes the onboard flash on the S3 workes ok. But sometime I have problems with the flash when I am taking macro. If I want to get all the details - have to get very close - and then the lens gets in the way and gives a shadow when I use the onboard flash.

But I might try to use a reflector solution (it also sounds cheaper ). Could you (others) explain about reflectors and how to use them?

[clockdoc]

Hi Bo,
Try using the telephoto focal length of your zoom lens in the macro mode. You may have to refer to your owners manual for the specific minumum focus distances . For example, on my Sony F707, if I am using the 48.5mm focal length (full optical zoom) I need to be at least 40 inches away from my subject. You can also use the focal lengths in between wide angle and full telephoto so experiment with those as well. By being farther away and being able to use your flash, you won't have the problem of the lens getting in the way.
As for reflectors, just about anything that reflects light can be used. I suggest using either a white card stock (2 X 3 feet is good) or crumpled aluminum foil glued to cardboard (crumple the foil to avoid the mirror-like reflections). Colored reflectors (usually gold colored) have their place but it is best to learn using a plain white card. Place the card as close as needed to get the amount of fill light without the reflector getting into the picture. Best used opposite the main light but experminet as you learn. Most photographers use bounce light from reflectors to fill shadows but I have seen portrait photographers use a flat black reflector to "subtract" fill light from the side of a model's face. Auto sun screens that twist or fold up into a small circle are also very handy as they provide a nice large, light-weight reflector and fold away to a small size for storage. Just some ideas. I am sure others will add their own. Thanks for asking. I'll be happy to help where I can.