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Several thing that might possibly help. The first is the area of interest is very low contrast which can cause some issues with auto focus.
I also wonder if camera movement might be an issue. I noticed the 240 mm focal length used on a 1.5 crop sensor giving a usable focal length of 360mm. Rule of thumb says minimum shutter speed should be 1/360. I also notice all camera internal controls set to maximum values. This extra processing COULD possible cause some loss in overall quality. I might suggest trying to shoot raw and doing the corrections in post processing. And last but not least the lens could be a little soft or slightly out of focus. |
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Internal controls set to maximum values. I hate sounding stupid, but could you please explain. Are you talking about color, what?
Thanks for advise. I appreciate your taking the time to try and help. |
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Kaye,
This is one of those few times the EXIF tells us more than usual, as Elmo noticed: -Contrast: Hard -Saturation: High saturation -Sharpening: HIGH -Tone Compensation (Contrast): HIGH -Image optimisation: MORE VIVID -Saturation: ENHANCED Your settings are emphasizing all the slight differences in tone, light/dark, and color difference throughout the image. You might try resetting all to normal levels and shoot some experimental subjects to see what difference it makes.
__________________
OK to re-edit and repost photo(s) only on DPS forums Proud user of a Fuji FP S3100, Nikon P90, a Canon T3i, and persistence. |
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Also, as Elmo mentioned, the shutter speeds aren't fast enough to eliminate camera-shake blur. I'm not sure you have to work the crop factor in. The general rule of thumb is that you want to be shooting at 1/focal_length or faster, so if you're shooting at 300mm, you want to be at 1/300s or faster to eliminate camera shake.
Another thing to consider is whether or not you're using a single autofocus point, and choosing a focus target, or if you've got the entire matrix activated, and letting the camera decide what to focus on. Using a single focus point gives you more control. You also want to aim for areas of high-contrast. Remember that with longer focal lengths and the larger sensor of a dSLR, you have a smaller depth of field than you would with a P&S camera, so there will often be some parts of the photo that will be out of focus.
__________________
I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Thanks for all your advise. I'll try some practice shots tomorrow with normal/default settings.
I do have a question. It I set my Op. Image to: Vivid, is the camera still using the +saturation, contrast: hard, sharpening: high, etc settings I have under custom? Thanks |
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Elmo is old, Elmo is shakey. Elmo need all he help he can get so adding in the crop factor cannot hurt.
On the serious side I feel that the smaller pixel size and increased pixel density of a reduced crop sensor is better able to detect motion. Therefore I like to include the crop factor. |
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Elmo can haz monopod?
Yes, certainly, adding in the crop factor can't hurt. I always refer this whole 1/focal-length thing as a "rule of thumb"--it works a lot of the time, but not always.One other thing to mention, just in case, is that this limit also assumes mastery of basic handholding technique and no stabilization.
__________________
I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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