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I'm no expert, but I'd sure have to think your shutter speed of 1/40 is awful unforgiving, particularly for a handheld shot at 300mm. It looks like you have room to kick it up a notch or two before losing the darker plumage detail too terribly, although I thoroughly understand that shooting wild birds doesn't give you a lot of time to play with settings. But that's the only thing I can think of, assuming the equipment is trusty (I like to blame my lens, heheheh).
At any rate, I don't think the photo is a disaster by any stretch, especially considering you just have to "takes what you gets" with birds all too often. Heck, I think it's a wonderful shot!
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Cheers, Kurt Maurer Canon T3i w/ Canon 100-400mm & 15-85mm lenses Always okay for dps users to critique and edit my photos for instructional purposes. "Heaven for climate, hell for society." -Sam'l Clemens My flickr |
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I agree about this shot not being a disaster. You are asking a lot to handhold at 1/40 with a 300mm focal length.
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Canon Rebel XS 18-55mm IS, 75-300mm, 50mm f1.8, 70-200mm f2.8 Flickr Always ok for DPS users to critique and edit my photos for instructional purposes. |
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Well, you are at "equipment limits"... You will never get "fantastic" shots from a prosumer zoom (f/5.6 @ 300mm)..it's doing everything it can and it doesn't do so well at the extremes.
Plus, SS is very slow and if that's a FF image you couldn't have been more than 20ft from the perch/nest...NO DOF.... The only "easy fix" I can suggest is fill flash...even with the pop-up detuned a step.
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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This is just me, but I would've gone for iso 1600. I tend to stay around 800/1600 a lot while birding. I prefer noise and no motion blur to motion blur and no noise. One you can fix to a certain degree in post, the other one, you can't. Yet.
![]() With ISO levels, the biggest issue is getting proper exposure, and most specifically avoiding underexposure. Since most people use the higher settings like 800 and 1600 only in low-light situations, they tend to severely underexpose, and this exaggerates the noise, and then they're programmed into thinking that high iso => massive noise. If you expose properly, you can mitigate a lot of this. Spot metering, obviously, is another tool you could use to help you deliberately blow the sky and get feather detail on the bird. I think you did ok, actually, but you are definitely at equipment limits, there. The only other options (aside from flash), is to simply forego shooting the bird until the light/angle is better. I know. You can almost never walk around to the other side and get the bird to turn around. But avoiding backlit subjects makes a huge difference in terms of how much you end up struggling. Harder to do than it sounds, though. The excitement of just seeing the bird tends to override such trivial concerns. It's like not taking your 4,000th bird butt shot. Takes a while to master.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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+1. Don't know how I missed that bit.
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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Noob sez: I'm unclear on how you determine the OP is at the limits of the equipment...?
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Cheers, Kurt Maurer Canon T3i w/ Canon 100-400mm & 15-85mm lenses Always okay for dps users to critique and edit my photos for instructional purposes. "Heaven for climate, hell for society." -Sam'l Clemens My flickr |
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Quote:
![]() Quote:
Her shutter speed was 1/40s. With a 300mm lens, the rule of thumb to avoid camera shake blur is to shoot with a shutter speed of 1/focal_length or faster. So, ideally, she should have been using a shutter speed of 1/300s or faster. If the lens has IS/VR, however, we can cut that down by two stops (maybe three), so ideally, she should have been at 1/75s or faster (1/300 -> 1/150 -> 1/75). So, she's still pushing it, shutter speed wise, and if that osprey had moved at all, subject motion blur would have certainly asserted itself. So, no more light to be got by slowing the shutter speed. ISO was the only setting that could have been shifted to get more light into the scene and help raise the shutter speed. She was at iso 400, assuming that going higher than that would give her too much noise. Had she been at 1600, she could have raised the shutter speed to 1/160 (1/40s -> 1/80s -> 1/160s = iso400 -> iso800 -> iso1600), which wouldn't have been ideal, but would still have been better, and might have increased the sharpness. But overall, there's simply not enough light, here.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Good heavens, I may even understand all that some day! Seriously, thanks for taking the time to explain it, I promise to re-read it, and study harder, and be a good boy, etc., etc.
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Cheers, Kurt Maurer Canon T3i w/ Canon 100-400mm & 15-85mm lenses Always okay for dps users to critique and edit my photos for instructional purposes. "Heaven for climate, hell for society." -Sam'l Clemens My flickr |
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Thanks for the replies and the advice.
I'll definitely try the higher ISO next time. I must confess to being guilty of using the high ISO's mainly in very low light, thus exaggerating the grain. I think you're right about my brain associating the two. My camera is a baby in the big wide world of DSLR's and is only equipped with the kit lens' with no IS. With that in mind I think I did well too, (for this shot, but the other 6 were AWFUL!), but when the pic is viewed in a larger size the mistakes are evident. And it's true what you say about waiting. But when he was sitting there looking at me so nicely, I just couldn't stop myself! Thanks again for taking the time! really appreciate it. |
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