Frustration

[Liparis]

HI,
Am I expecting too much? I try to get more detail of these small Goldfinches but this is the best I can get. Is it my photography (this is just a rough shot as an example) or do I need a longer focal length to get closer in for more detail? I'm a complete rookie at bird/wildlife, usually photographing flowers up close. I'm not looking for critique on composition etc, as I said this was quickly shot as an example. I did have to increase the exposure a stop in photoshop due to failing light and then use unmask.
Shot was taken with an 80mm - 200mm at 200mm. ISO 200 at 200th second, yes, all the 2's.
As I say, perhaps I'm expecting more detail than I should.
Bill.

[Laurenbiz]

I have founds that birds are definitely not the easiest. They move fast!

I have tried taking photos of birds by a birdfeeder that is stationed about 5 feet away from a window. I sit by the window inside and I snap them at the feeder. So, I'm about 6 or 7 feet away, and with my 200mm lens fully extended, they can take up about a third of the frame. So, I can see fairly nice detail.

So, how far away are you? If you're standing more than 10 feet away, then this photo here is pretty typical with a telephoto zoom lens.

I'd say get closer - if you somehow can - and you may want to increase your ISO. Because they move quickly, you could try to increase ISO.

Also, I always shoot in 'continuous shooting mode' with these guys. I keep my hand on the shutter button and it just clicks, click, clicks, one photo after another. I'm destined to get one good shot in a series of 10.

[Liparis]

Hi Laurenbiz, Thanks for feedback. I'm 35ft away from the feeders, so perhaps I need a bigger lens, the feeders won't move closer - no place to hang them - these are very flighty birds and don't like you getting too close.
I also shoot on continuous, manual focus and keep my finger on the shutter release for a few bursts at a time.
I'll try again tomorrow with fresh light at a higher ISO I just worry about graininess when increasing ISO, but I suppose it's down to trial and error.
Thanks again for your helpfull reply.

[karen_s]

If you really like birding, it might be worth it to get a much longer lens, say a 400mm, or longer if you can swing it. An extender (like a 1.4x) can be useful on a good lens too.

I started birding last year and got more than a few lackluster shots with my 70-200mm. It's a great lens, but not long enough to get many good bird shots, even at the feeder. I bought a 300 this past summer and have gotten some nice results (I sit about 8-10ft away from the feed) but it is still kinda short to capture birds in flight, unless of course they decide to dive bomb me ;-)

I don't know what camera you have but don't be too afraid of the higher ISO's. I have a Canon 50d and regularly shoot birds at ISO's 400-800, sometimes higher if needed. Just make sure you get proper exposure as the noise will show up more in an underexposed image. And noise will vary from camera to camera so just experiment with what you have and find out what amount of noise you are comfortable with.

At the feeders, try to keep shutter speeds at least equal to if not more than the focal length (ie @200mm go for at least 1/200, @400mm, at least 1/400). I am mediocre with technique so I go for double the focal length. If you don't have IS or VR in your lens or body (image stabilization or vibration reduction) you might need to go even higher. Birds in flight, obviously the faster the better.

As for the picture posted, it looks a lot like my first tries. I found I really had to concentrate on focus. The longer the lens, the wider the aperture, the shallower the depth of field. So, you can't just focus on the front of the feeder and expect the bird to be in focus. You have to focus on the bird. If I am close enough, I focus on the eye(s) and recompose.

If you are thinking of getting a lens, post a question in the 'Digital Camera' section under your cameras brand. There are members that can really point you in the right direction.

Hope that helps a bit.

[Liparis]

That helps a lot, karen_s. I have a canon 450D and I'm hoping to do a lot more birding with it. I'm looking at a 500mm lens now, especially as I intend visiting my local lough for some waterfowl shots after Christmas. I'm hoping I can get a fast enough one to suit my wallet. Exposure is often where I fall down in my haste to make sure I focus and steady. So many things to do at once in the birding game it seems. At least with my flowers they just sit there waiting for me
Many thanks.

[Michael_2010]

I got a Sigma 150-500mm lens specifically for birding. It does a good job, but it is a bear to carry around. It would be excellent on a tripod at a location you have staked out in advance. Walking through a bird sanctuary, trying to spot and shoot anything that moves is a real chore. The results are pretty mixed as well.

[RichardTaylor]

+1 one on long lens & getting closer.
Especially important for small birds.

Here's why.

(1) Shot at 400mm an a 1.6 crop camera.
Notice the dimensions and shooting distance and this is a medium sized bird..


Do not be afraid to bump up the ISO and if necessary use selective noise reduction if need be.

(2) Around sunrise.

Camera Canon EOS 40D
Exposure 0.002 sec (1/500)
Aperture f/7.1
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 800
Exposure Bias -1/3 EV


A monopod helps a lot with keeping the weight off your arms and to a lesser extent stability.
I always try to use one, especially on long shoots. However not for birds in flight and shooting birds at a high angle to yourself.

(3) Extreeme example (just as the sun was coming up).

Camera Canon EOS 40D
Exposure 0.067 sec (1/15)
Aperture f/6.3
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 800
Exposure Bias 2/3 EV

90% of my bird life is shot in an urban environment (streets & city parks etc)

[RichardTaylor]

Quote.
"So many things to do at once in the birding game it seems."
End quote.

It just means you don't have time to play around with settings.

As soon as I get to a site and have the camera on a monopod I set my camera up.

(1) ISO to at least 400 - unless shooting in bright sunshine
(2) Shutter priority with a shutter speed of at least 1/500
(3) I will try to have an aperture of around F8 if possible (a bit more or less doesn't really matter.
(3) Centre focus point only.
(5) Autofocus tracking is on
(6) Image stabilisation is off
(7) Possibly dial in some exposure compensation.
(8) High speed continious shooting is on.

What this means is all I have to do is follow the bird/s and wait for the moment.
If the light is poor I will bump the ISO up and shoot aperture priory with the lens wide open. I will take what ever shutter speed I can get and if the shutter speed drops I will turn on the image stabilisation.

Because I am usually not focussing & recomposing I try to leave a bit of space around the subject so I have room to adjust the composition when PPing. I always shoot RAW

The bottom line is that you do not want anything distracting you from catching the moment. The moment you move your eye away from the viewfinder something will happen.