I currently set my ISO to 200 and compensate with manual mode so that I can set my shutter speed and aperture to the way I want it (slightly underexposed to compensate for the d50 liking to overexpose things). Of course I also use flash and tripod depending on the situation, but I like to keep my ISO low. So, if you don't want to use manual settings, I'd say use the Tv or Ap modes on your camera.
I really don't like the idea of correcting the exposure compensation because the worst thing about using a high ISO is the noise. I had a picture I took around dusk out by the ocean, with really calm colours, and it was basically ruined by noise. Granted, it wasn't anything fantastic, but I liked it, or I would've if it hadn't looked so noisy.
This page on
Exposure Strategies for Digital Cameras has a bit to read about ISO on it and had this to say:
Quote:
Using ISO Wisely
Controlling exposure by manipulating ISO in lieu of aperture or shutter speed is generally a bad idea because higher ISO settings beget more image noise, as we've just seen. But ISO adjustments are often inescapable in stop-action work, where short exposures and low available light are a common mix.
The increased noise isn't always subtle, but if a higher ISO makes a must-have shot possible, the noise may well be a price worth paying. Image noise tends to be more apparent in the shadows (which may be expendable) and at higher final magnifications, like the ones needed for 8x10 prints (which may not be needed). With forethought and extra exposures specifically designed for the purpose, you can significantly mitigate noise in post-processing in relatively static scenes like the night sky sans moon, but such subtraction and averaging techniques aren't applicable to the short exposures needed for stop-action work, where need to bump ISO issue most often arises.
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