Photographing people- part one
While attending Syracuse University's photojournalism program, one of our professors gave us an assignment, go out and shoot four rolls of 36 exposure film, (yea…..I'm dating myself)144 pictures of people, but, the clincher was we could only photograph the subject with a 50mm lens and only shoot that individual once. So, we had to shoot 144 different people. That's one way to break one's shyness.
Photographing strangers requires tact and sensitivity. People, especially in this day and age, don't like having a camera stuck in their faces. Instead, try to calm suspicion. Introduce yourself and communicate in a sincere way why you want to make a photograph of them-because you're interested in what they are doing, how they mend nets, or whatever. Once you make that connection as a human being, most people are flattered by your interest and open up to you. Also your body language can do the trick: There's no cultural barrier to a smile or expressing your admiration for pretty child.
My style is to surround people with things that distinguish them from other people. When you go into someone's environment to shoot a portrait, there is something around the subject that makes them special. Everybody has something that is symbolic of what they do. To quickly establish a working relationship with the subject, ask them to explain what they do. That gets them relaxed, while at the same time, gives you ideas for pictures.
Sometimes you can’t move the subject to make a better picture, then it’s up to the photographer to changing their perspective. You can lay on the ground or stand on a chair or table. It’s a good way of looking for a different angle for a portrait instead of being at eye to eye contact with the subject.
For most part, it’s just a knowledge of how to make light and composition work to the photographer’s advantage.
First find a neutral background, one that won’t distract or isn’t too dark. If you’re stuck with a busy background, try to bring the subject out some distance away from it and use a wider aperture on your lens to throw the background out of focus.
The best lens for a simple portrait is in the 70-200mm range. This will give you a size able image without you having being right on top of the subject. It also allows you to throw the background out of focus.
No matter, what kind of portrait you want to make, you should first master the head shot. Then, by adding elements, you can turn that head shot an environmental portrait. My basic thought is to start with the simple picture, then start adding elements, backing away, taking pictures as you add more.This way you add elements to give the viewer of your photographs some identification with the subject.
When shooting people I like to travel light and use my 16-35mm and 70-200mm zoom lenses. One of the keys to successful people photography is the ability to work quickly when needed. And the zoom lenses help me do that: I can compose my scene, and then “shoot and scoot.”
Read Photographing People Part 2
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