Enrich Black without Affecting Overall Contrast

Sometimes black and very dark tones in a photo can appear a little weak or washed out. There are a lot of ways to correct this, but some methods can sometimes cause other unwanted changes in your photo. I’d like to present a way I came across recently to increase the density and saturation of black while leaving other tones and colors unaffected.
I shot this photo on a very bright day in the afternoon. Given the brightness of the situation, I wanted a fast shutter speed, but the face of the sign was in shadow, albeit very bright shadow. I had to find an exposure that would retain the very bright background as well as the face of the sign — too long of an exposure would blow out all the brighter aspects, like the sky, and too short of an exposure wouldn’t show the darker face of the sign, which was my subject. I wound up going with 1/250 shutter speed at f/5.6.

Jpeg as produced by the camera, with no adjustments
The blue sky was retained and the sign face wasn’t too dark, but the lettering was a bit soft, and just not as defined as I wanted it to be.
After my usual workflow in Adobe Camera Raw (adjust white balance, tweak saturation and luminance of blues and greens a little bit), I opened the image in Photoshop. I then did the usual modifications: reduce noise, especially the noise in the blue sky; sharpen the image; add a vignette to bring attention to the sign. I added a Curves adjustment layer to increase overall contrast, but the results just seemed to lighten and wash out the brighter tones too much, and didn’t do too much to the darker tones. (I did however want to darken the green frame of the sign, so I selected it with the Magic Wand tool and added a Curves layer so that just the selected portions of the sign frame would be affected. I then just chose the “Darker” Curves preset).
I still wanted to make the black lettering of the sign really stand out. They are a huge part of the image. I knew Curves wasn’t going to work like I wanted. Levels produced pretty much the same story — washed-out highlights. Hue/Saturation didn’t do the trick either. After experimenting (i.e. messing around) with these different adjustments, I tried the Selective Color adjustment layer.
Selective Color always seemed to me just that — for color adjustments. But it turns out you can choose black as well as white and a neutral gray to adjust. I still wanted to limit the adjustment to the sign lettering only, so I drew a selection around the perimeter of the sign with the polygonal lasso tool.

Making a selection with the polygonal lasso tool.
This way, when I open the Selective Color adjustment layer, the active selection around the sign is assigned automatically to the mask that opens with the adjustment layer. You can see in the layer thumbnail that the area I selected is white, and the surrounding area is black. The effects of the layer are only seen where the mask reveals the adjustment, where the mask thumbnail appears white.

Selective Color adjustment layer and its mask based on the previous selection.
With the Selective Color layer restricted by the mask to alter only the sign area, I scrolled through the pull-down menu until I got to black. You can do all kinds of amazing color changes here by altering the amounts of cyan, magenta, yellow, or black in whatever color you’re working on.

You can do amazingly precise adjustments with Selective Color. Here, the amount of black in black was reduced to zero. You can see the yellow was unchanged, but the black letters turned white.
I just wanted to increase the amount of black in black. An increase of 10% black made the letters pop out a lot more without altering the yellow around them. (I could have selected only the letters and then used Curves to darken them, but that would have required a lot more work in selecting and refining the selection).

Choosing black from the Selective Color options.
By using the mask, I was able to easily isolate the black letters. And the yellow included in the masked area would not be affected by increasing the amount of black, since Selective Color adjustment layers allow you to pinpoint changes to one color at a time.

The final result, cropped and adjusted.

16 Responses to “Enrich Black without Affecting Overall Contrast” - Add Yours
March 13th, 2009 at 8:06 am
Stumbled across your “digital photography school”. What a find, I am now signed up for it and looking to it. I have a Nikon digital camera (8800) that I have been playing with for about 6-8 months. I purchased the Nikon because I had a Nikon 35mm which I had used years before doing my own developing and printing, and knew their reputation in the industry, so stuck with them.
Digital has sure changed what you do to get a picture produced. I can’t say I miss the smell of the stop bath, but do miss the procedure of producing a picture the old way. I sold all my photo equipment years ago, but still on occasion have a desire for the old school procedures. Oh well, I guess they are gone.
I am thinking about trying to sell some of my pictures by putting up a web site, so I have another learning experience on the way.
March 13th, 2009 at 8:12 am
In the final, the fence color is way off. I personally prefer the original shot.
March 13th, 2009 at 8:24 am
Good tip but I agree with Chris. Something doesn’t look right in the after picture. There’s a yellow color cast. I think you should have made all your normal changes and used that as the before picture, altered the sign and used that as the after picture.
March 13th, 2009 at 9:35 am
Don’t you think final result is over saturated ? I am using canon dpp for some post processing but it doesn’t have a lot of options for correcting contrast and I don’t like that I am getting. I would appreciate if anybody has some tips how to get best results with dpp ?
March 13th, 2009 at 10:02 am
I just have to say, I do like the brighter version. It is a more interesting picture in my opinion.
March 13th, 2009 at 6:20 pm
I also haft to agree with Chris, The colours are off. Maybe if you only see the “after” picture it would be less noticeable, but seeing “before” also there is to much change IMHO. So I’d go with the original also. But as said interesting tip.
March 13th, 2009 at 7:52 pm
i would like to see this in action on youtube.
But a nice bit of work
March 13th, 2009 at 8:44 pm
I think setting the Black Point in ACR works better.
;-)
March 13th, 2009 at 10:37 pm
I think the subject matter itself is inherently not all that interesting but, as an illustration of the technique described, it works well. I like both the before and after pictures, but for different reasons. Yes, the overall color balance in the after shot seems to have been shifted and there is a bit of garish oversaturation, but that lends a kitschy, 1950’s feel to the photo. Perfect for the subject matter. More importantly, the technique itself is a useful one. I think people should look beyond their personal like or dislike of the examples and consider the technique as it might be applied to their own pictures.
March 13th, 2009 at 11:36 pm
I’m curious how Curves wouldn’t help here — it seems like pegging the curve somewhere around the dark end of the midtones, then dragging the shadows end downward, would probably have worked very well without touching the hilights at all. That would have been my first try, at least.
March 15th, 2009 at 4:25 am
I agree with the others that the colors in the overall picture were impacted too much. If my plan with this picture was to sharpen the sign lettering and giving it more pop I would have considered taking the approach of masking the sign and only making those changes within the boundaries of the sign. Nice technique overall, but it probably should have been applied more selectively.
March 15th, 2009 at 7:47 pm
A nice article that attacks a problem in a new light to me. I would have gone about it in a different way, but I like your idea and can see uses for it in the future. A nicely written post, Thank you
March 19th, 2009 at 1:58 am
I did not find this to be very helpful. Yes, the sign is much sharper and clearer but at the expense of the fence, which has a nice natural metal tone to it in the original, but turns yellow after the adjustment….as does the white eavestrough.
March 20th, 2009 at 3:06 am
good tips..one alternative that works for me, mostly on portraits though. Dup the image, flatten, convert to cmyk, dup the bkrnd layer, target this new layers K(black) channel, ctrl L, levels adjust, pull the bot left slider in. Overdo some here, then lower layer opacity to taste. Flatten, convert back to RGB and copy this image on top of original. Paint in effect with mask if desired. Watch some bright saturated colors as the trip to CMYK can do damage to them.
seems to give portaits, particularly head shots, more depth. Also works well with BW.
Note,
March 25th, 2009 at 7:45 am
I like this. Obviously there are personal perspectives, even proven techniques that are different and arguably better. But for what I wanted to do this worked perfectly.
Thanks Kenneth, much appreciate you sharing this.
Antonie, Dubai, UAE.
March 28th, 2009 at 12:07 pm
Thanks for the tip! I use Selective Color adjustment pretty often to remove purple coloration from faces but never thought of using it to put more black into the black. I would typically rather use the Black slider in Lightroom for instance but your technique looks more flexible and easier to apply. Thank you!
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