How to Hold a Digital Camera
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One of the common problems that many new digital (and film) photographers have is ‘camera shake’ where images seem blurry - usually because the camera was not held still enough while the shutter was depressed. This is especially common in shots taken in low light situations where the shutter is open for longer periods of time. Even the smallest movement of the camera can cause it and the only real way to eliminate it is with a tripod.
Adding to camera shake is a technique that is increasingly common with digital camera users of holding the camera at arms length away from them as they take shots - often with one hand. While this might be a good way to frame your shot the further away from your body (a fairly stable thing) you hold the camera the more chance you have of swaying or shaking as you take your shot.
Tripods are the best way to stop camera shake because they have three sturdy legs that keep things very still - but if you don’t have one then another simple way to enhance the stability of the camera is to hold onto it with two hands.
While it can be tempting to shoot one handed a two hands will increase your stillness (like three legs on a tripod being better than one).
Exactly how you should grip your camera will depend upon what type of digital camera you are using and varies from person to person depending upon preference. There is no real right or wrong way to do it but here’s the technique that I generally use:
- Use your right hand to grip the right hand end of the camera. Your forefinger should sit lightly above the shutter release, your other three fingers curling around the front of the camera. Your right thumb grips onto the back of the camera. Most cameras these days have some sort of grip and even impressions for where fingers should go so this should feel natural. Use a strong grip with your right hand but don’t grip it so tightly that you end up shaking the camera. (keep in mind our previous post on shutter technique - squeeze the shutter don’t jab at it).
- The positioning of your left hand will depend upon your camera but in in general it should support the weight of the camera and will either sit underneath the camera or under/around a lens if you have a DSLR.
- If you’re shooting using the view finder to line up your shot you’ll have the camera nice and close into your body which will add extra stability but if you’re using the LCD make sure you don’t hold your camera too far away from you. Tuck your elbows into your sides and lean the camera out a little from your face (around 30cm). Alternatively use the viewfinder if it’s not too small or difficult to see through (a problem on many point and shoots these days).
- Add extra stability by leaning against a solid object like a wall or a tree or by sitting or kneeling down. If you have to stand and don’t have anything to lean on for extra support put your feet shoulder width apart to give yourself a steady stance. The stiller you can keep your body the stiller the camera will be.
Gripping a camera in this way will allow you flexibility of being able to line up shots quickly but will also help you to hold still for the crucial moment of your shutter being open.
Another quick bonus tip - before you take your shot take a gentle but deep breath, hold it, then take the shot and exhale. The other method people use is the exact opposite - exhale and before inhaling again take the shot. It’s amazing how much a body rises and falls simply by breathing - being conscious of it can give you an edge.
Of course each person will have their own little techniques that they are more comfortable with and ultimately you need to find what works best for you - but in the early days of familiarizing yourself with your new digital camera it’s worth considering your technique.
One last note - this post is about ‘holding a camera’ in a way that will help eliminate camera shake. It’s not rocket science - but it’s amazing how many people get it wrong and wonder why their images are blurry.
There are of course many other techniques for decreasing camera shake that should be used in conjunction with the way you hold it. Shutter speed, lenses with image stabilization and of course tripods can all help - we’ll cover these and more in future posts.
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November 23rd, 2007 at 1:16 am
I definitely agree! I have actually given up taken photos in low light conditions if I have forgotten my tripod. It just doesn’t pay off. I have tried everything to keep my arms still as I am holding the camera; to no avail. It only takes a small movement for it to show up on camera.
I find it difficult to take my tripod everywhere and remember to set it up. If there was a way to take it and it not be so bulky or cumbersome, that would me wonderful. Having the EOS Rebel XT gives me a bit more room to place my hands; but of course a bit heavier than the small camera’s.
November 23rd, 2007 at 1:49 am
I’ll add two little tricks I use:
Setting the self timer can help to eliminate any movement from pressing the shutter release.
In addition to leaning against something it can be even more effective to press the camera directly against something to stabilize it.
November 23rd, 2007 at 2:14 am
I agree with the self timer, but only if your on a tripod I use that when I shot fireworks down at a local park… If you have a remote that negates the need to do this though
November 23rd, 2007 at 2:21 am
That, and use shutter that’s faster than the current focal lenght of your lens, but don’t go less that 1/60 while not on a tripod.
I myself prefer at least 1/80 or 1/100 for not moving subjects.
November 23rd, 2007 at 5:19 am
As breathing goes, the trick I use (and from what I understand a lot of police/military snipers use) is to inhale, start exhaling, then stop about halfway out, snap, finish exhaling.
November 23rd, 2007 at 8:55 am
With my point-and-shoot camera I find it’s essential to keep my elbows in tight. I used to hold them out wide (when not using the viewfinder) which resulted in many a blurry photo.
I also use the “hold my breath” trick, especially for macro shots without a tripod.
November 23rd, 2007 at 9:54 am
I typically shoot in burst mode, all 3 images cant be bad..?
November 23rd, 2007 at 11:02 am
@Jamie: I was about to say something very similar - when I learned to shoot in the army, that’s exactly the technique we were taught.
There are a number of parallels between shooting a photo and shooting a target, but one of the most important (and mentioned in the post) is to not ’slap’ the shutter (or trigger, as the case may be).
November 24th, 2007 at 2:09 am
I usually follow Graeme Smith’s technique. this is one of the best ways to avoide camera shake. i usually use 2 seconds of self timer.
November 24th, 2007 at 3:24 am
I purchased a Nikon hand strap for the right hand side of the camera and it has been great for me for stability and carrying.
This is an explanation from their site;
“The Nikon SLR Hand Strap wraps comfortably around your hand for added security and reduced fatigue. Attaches quickly and securely to the camera body using the camera’s ¼-20 female tripod socket and the camera’s right-side neck-strap eyelet. The Hand Strap adjusts easily for a perfect fit.”
It is available on their website Nikon USA, click on the Nikon Mall.
November 24th, 2007 at 5:43 am
I don’t bother taking night shots anymore unless I have my tripod with me. I recently bought the Gorillapod, and fortunately, it is small enough that it folds up nice and small into my backpack, and comes with me almost wherever I go. On top of using the tripod, I also set it to use the 10second timer, as I found that if you’re on delicate footing with the tripod, it can still shudder slightly… and that’s really accentuated in 30 second exposures.
November 24th, 2007 at 9:22 am
I use that same military technique as well, and I cannot stress enough how important it is to practice practice practice. I usually shoot at night with a very open prime lens, right down to an F1.4 and using high ISO settings, but when I want more depth of field and I am without my tripod, I still find myself taking steady shots at up to half a second or so. A fun way to get in that practice is to get yourself into nightclubs and shoot in there (if you are old enough - or like that environment) and it’s also a great place to work on rear sync flash play.
November 24th, 2007 at 9:45 pm
I have another problem with camera shake… I have been an asthmatic for a number of years and using the drugs for this has caused me to have “less than steady” hands… I have to make sure I breathe [or not] and always try and keep my shutterspeed up… When this isn’t possible, I have the Canon remote - it’s my best friend!.. :)
November 25th, 2007 at 12:18 am
okay good post.
Tip: bump up iso, and try to get shutter speed 1.6 times the current focal length. So if you are shooting at 50mm minimum acceptable shutter speed is 1/80
November 26th, 2007 at 6:43 am
I do a few different things (at risk of repetition).. if its a shot I just HAVE to get, I will:
1. Breathe in, not all the way, but most of the way, and hold.
2. Press the camera firmly against my face while holding it with two hands, while my left elbow (the lens holding arm) is firmly pressed against my chest or side(your head is alot more stable than your arms.. trust me on this) but not too hard; you start to shake because of the resistance your counter-acting muscles have to put out
3. Self timers significantly help eliminate shake from the gripping action your fingers must do to push the shutter button, also because you dont have to think about keeping the camera still WHILE moving and loosening your hand grip… I say always always use a timer, enough time to get still.
4. If theres a table, or a door threshold or something of a similar stable nature, press the camera firmly up against this type of support. I’ve gotten pictures of a half second with success on occasion using door thresholds and support beams. Although I’ve never tested to see how long I could really go, it works.
So that’s my system.. if one isnt enough, add another step.. if all 4 dont work.. tripod! lol
November 26th, 2007 at 9:10 pm
Nice Tips. I would however prefer using two hands rather than a tripod, as taking a tripod everywhere isn’t feasible. Also, tripods can be used only in situations where you have planned a photograph, and not in any situation. So practicing holding your camera with two hands gives you near-tripod perfection.
November 26th, 2007 at 11:59 pm
thanks for bringing the subject to the photographers’eyes and hands. i am the prey particularly with d-cameras, that comes to know when the photo is enlarged. i tried every method but tripod is the only solution for me - very difficult to carry on for general photography.
a fair point for blur may be it is on the hand grip of camera, which doesn’t give solid support.
better placement at least for the shutter release button would be on the top of the camera body, near mode dial so the weight rests on the solid body of the camera for prosumer and DSLR cameras. i think 50% of the problem would be solved by this method.
the problem will remain with smaller/compact cameras having only 115 to 200gms of weight whether the release is on the top of the body. so if the shutter release is set on the top of prosumer and DSLRs, the owners of these cameras may be benefitted. since in my opinion, if u get a blurry pic shoot, not to shoot at all because of post frustration/ or compulsory use tripod (god forbid in how many circumstances). thanks.
November 28th, 2007 at 7:59 pm
From what I am reading, having a battery grip (at least for the Rebel XT) is suppose to help stabilize the camera a little better. Especially in portrait style shots. For those that have a battery grip, do you find this to be the case??
November 30th, 2007 at 6:31 pm
Will Battery grip help?
December 3rd, 2007 at 3:52 am
I find that when using a long lens, I hold the camera in my right hand and push down gently while supporting the lens with my left hand and pushing UP gently. Gives nice addes support.
December 24th, 2007 at 10:17 am
Great tips, but I wish the proper way to hold a camera while taking vertical or portrait orientated would have been discussed. I see too many people, including professionals, holding the camera with the shutter release on top. NO! The proper, most stable position for hand holding is with the shutter release on the BOTTOM, such that you can still tuck in your elbows. Pass the word, we need to break this trend!
See: http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/technique/handholding1.html
April 14th, 2008 at 4:16 am
Nobody has mentioned camera bean bags. They are light as a feather, attach easily to your camera bag, and have proven to work for upto 20-30s exposures for me in low light.
Obviously, they are not suitable for hand-held street photography, but for dark interiors and shots after sunset where is make sense composition-wise to sit the camera down rather than hold it, they present a nice option.