My first love in photography when I first got my trusty old Minolta SLR as a teenager was landscapes. There’s something about getting out in nature with the challenge of capturing some of the amazing beauty that you see. Perhaps it fits with my personality type - but I loved the quietness and stillness of waiting for the perfect moment for the shot, scoping out an area for the best vantage point and then seeing the way that the light changed a scene over a few hours.
While I don’t get as much time as I’d like for Landscape Photography these days - I thought I’d jot down a few of the lessons that I learned in my early years of doing it. I’d love to hear your own Landscape Photography tips in comments below.
While there may be times that you want to get a little more creative and experiment with narrow depth of fields in your Landscape Photography - the normal approach is to ensure that as much of your scene is in focus as possible. The simplest way to do this is to choose a small Aperture setting (a large number) as the smaller your aperture the greater the depth of field in your shots.
Do keep in mind that smaller apertures mean less light is hitting your image sensor at any point in time so they will mean you need to compensate either by increasing your ISO or lengthening your shutter speed (or both).
PS: of course there are times when you can get some great results with a very shallow DOF in a landscape setting (see the picture of the double yellow line below).
As a result of the longer shutter speed that you may need to select to compensate for a small aperture you will need to find a way of ensuring your camera is completely still during the exposure. In fact even if you’re able to shoot at a fast shutter speed the practice of using a tripod can be beneficial to you. Also consider a cable or wireless shutter release mechanism for extra camera stillness.
Related Reading - Introduction to Tripods
All shots need some sort of focal point to them and landscapes are no different - in fact landscape photographs without them end up looking rather empty and will leave your viewers eye wondering through the image with nowhere to rest (and they’ll generally move on quickly).
Focal points can take many forms in landscapes and could range from a building or structure, a striking tree, a boulder or rock formation, a silhouette etc.
Think not only about what the focal point is but where you place it. The rule of thirds might be useful here.
Related Reading - Focal Points in Photography
One element that can set apart your landscape shots is to think carefully about the foreground of your shots and by placing points of interest in them. When you do this you give those viewing the shot a way into the image as well as creating a sense of depth in your shot.
Related Reading: Getting Foregrounds right in photography
Another element to consider is the sky in your landscape.
Most landscapes will either have a dominant foreground or sky - unless you have one or the other your shot can end up being fairly boring.
If you have a bland, boring sky - don’t let it dominate your shot and place the horizon in the upper third of your shot (however you’ll want to make sure your foreground is interesting). However if the sky is filled with drama and interesting cloud formations and colors - let it shine by placing the horizon lower.
Consider enhancing skies either in post production or with the use of filters (for example a polarizing filter can add color and contrast).
One of the questions to ask yourself as you take Landscape shots is ‘how am I leading the eye of those viewing this shot’? There are a number of ways of doing this (foregrounds is one) but one of the best ways into a shot is to provide viewers with lines that lead them into an image.
Lines give an image depth, scale and can be a point of interest in and of themselves by creating patterns in your shot.
Related Reading: lines in photography“>Using Lines in Photography (mini-series)
When most people think about landscapes they think of calm, serene and passive environments - however landscapes are rarely completely still and to convey this movement in an image will add drama, mood and create a point of interest.
Examples - wind in trees, waves on a beach, water flowing over a waterfall, birds flying over head, moving clouds.
Capturing this movement generally means you need to look at a longer shutter speed (sometimes quite a few seconds). Of course this means more light hitting your sensor which will mean you need to either go for a small Aperture, use some sort of a filter or even shoot at the start or end of the day when there is less light.
A scene can change dramatically depending upon the weather at any given moment. As a result, choosing the right time to shoot is of real importance.
Many beginner photographers see a sunny day and think that it’s the best time to go out with their camera - however an overcast day that is threatening to rain might present you with a much better opportunity to create an image with real mood and ominous overtones. Look for storms, wind, mist, dramatic clouds, sun shining through dark skies, rainbows, sunsets and sunrises etc and work with these variations in the weather rather than just waiting for the next sunny blue sky day.
I chatted with one photographer recently who told me that he never shoots during the day - his only shooting times are around dawn and dusk - because that’s when the light is best and he find that landscapes come alive.
These ‘golden’ hours are great for landscapes for a number of reasons - none the least of which is the ‘golden’ light that it often presents us with. The other reason that I love these times is the angle of the light and how it can impact a scene - creating interesting patterns, dimensions and textures.
It’s an old tip but a good one - before you take a landscape shot always consider the horizon on two fronts.
Related Reading: Getting Horizons Horizontal
You drive up to the scenic lookout, get out of the car, grab your camera, turn it on, walk up to the barrier, raise the camera to your eye, rotate left and right a little, zoom a little and take your shot before getting back in the car to go to the next scenic lookout.
We’ve all done it - however this process doesn’t generally lead to the ‘wow’ shot that many of us are looking for.
Take a little more time with your shots - particularly in finding a more interesting point of view to shoot from. This might start with finding a different spot to shoot from than the scenic look out (wander down paths, look for new angles etc), could mean getting down onto the ground to shot from down low or finding a higher up vantage point to shoot from.
Explore the environment and experiment with different view points and you could find something truly unique.
May 18th, 2007 at 1:25 am
Awesome suggestions!!!
Now if I wasn’t working I could go right now and give some a try…. :-(
May 18th, 2007 at 1:37 am
The tips were good and the example photos are amazing.
May 18th, 2007 at 1:42 am
Great suggestions, will definitely give them a try. Nice examples as well.
May 18th, 2007 at 1:56 am
One more - “Go wide!” I find that a wide angle lens is necessary especially when trying to get some foreground detail in.
May 18th, 2007 at 2:43 am
2. Use a tripod … Also consider a cable or wireless shutter release mechanism for extra camera stillness.
My camera (Canon Powershot S2IS) doesn’t support a cable, but it does have a custom shutter time. I set it for a 2 second delay, line everything up, press and go. The delay lets the camera settle down from my shutter press.
May 18th, 2007 at 2:47 am
Just popping in to say that I just love reading this blog. Keep it up. It’s great stuff!
May 18th, 2007 at 3:09 am
This is one of them Must read articles, great job mate! I really enjoyed this one!
May 18th, 2007 at 3:50 am
I agree, great stuff! I also agree with Donncha in that you should try different lenses — wide angle AND telephoto. You can get many different photos from the same scene by changing your focal length.
May 18th, 2007 at 3:54 am
Wow, these are great tips, especially for a beginner like me. Thank you.
May 18th, 2007 at 5:07 am
Great article, I also have the book that is in the previous post, it is great. I have a Canon SD800IS Point and Shoot (Saving up for Canon SLR), but it claims it has a wide lens, but I noticed it just cuts off the top and bottom pixels, the width is exactly the same as normal photos. Isn’t that false advertising or is that how wide angle lens work?
May 18th, 2007 at 5:42 am
Landscape photography is one of the major areas of photography that I haven’t dabbled in at all yet.
Mostly because I’m too lazy to get up early and haven’t spend much time learning the tips and tricks for it. This is an amazing jumping-off point though, there’s tons of useful stuff here.
I’m taking a trip to Saskatchewan at the end of August for my cousin’s wedding. I was planning on (at least once) going out at dawn or dusk to find interesting things to shoot.
May 18th, 2007 at 7:27 am
Great article with some really good tips (no matter how many times some folks may have already heard them).
@Amar - The SD800is is a great point and shoot, good choice. However, the “wide angle” lens has nothing to do with the width or aspect ratio of the picture. (Cutting off the top and bottom may make it “wide screen” though.) Wide angle refers to the width of the angle of view (how much you can see from side to side, sometimes given in degrees, like 120 degree angle of view). Wide angle lenses are the ones at the low end of the “mm” spectrum, like 12mm to 24mm.
Happy shooting! :o)
May 18th, 2007 at 8:15 am
Some very interesting tips.. I just wish I could go to some of the places that have been shown in the beautiful example snaps :)
May 18th, 2007 at 8:45 am
One important point not to be neglected in landscape photography is the use of Graduated Neutral Density Filters. If you are shooting with a wide angle lens and want to capture the foreground, as well as, say the distant mountains or sky - an ND filter is essential to limit overexposure of the sky or the underexposed (blackened) foregrounds (depending where you meter). Of course there are other ways to prevent this from happening by using HDR techniques or blending exposures in photoshop.
May 18th, 2007 at 11:14 am
Great article, I found it very helpful. Thanks!!!!
May 18th, 2007 at 1:33 pm
Love the article, great images and examples. Inspiring.
May 18th, 2007 at 1:55 pm
wow, great points! congrats!
May 18th, 2007 at 5:18 pm
Great tips! For anyone who wants more tips like these, I highly recommend “The Digital Photography Book” by Scott Kelby.
May 18th, 2007 at 6:20 pm
The pictures that you posted here look so vivid. Are those for real or went under the powerful editing tools of PS? I’m also into photography but sad to say that I can’t afford to buy cameras that go with tripod and magnificent lenses. What I have is just a school-boy camera that I got when I was still 12 years old. I’m 25 now and still loving the pictures that I took using this antique camera.
I love taking pictures of mother-and-child theme. I love the drama behind each picture. The hardship behind each line in the face of the mother show perfect love for the baby or the child she is holding. But my problem is I can’t get the exact picture that captured those lines. Most of the time my pictures lack story. Do you have any suggestion on how to make the most out of your camera though it’s not so hi-tech?
May 18th, 2007 at 7:19 pm
Landscape photography is one of my favourite subjects, so I am very pleased to read this article with the accompanying images.It is informative, easy to read and understand.
Thanks & well done.
May 18th, 2007 at 9:07 pm
Great article, but something to remember for point 1 is diffraction. The smaller the apeture, the more likey you are to suffer from diffraction - it’s where the light bends oddly around the tiny hole. Essentially, it will be slightly LESS sharp.
Each lens has a sweet spot which is roughly 2 stops down from the maximum f-stop to get maximum sharpness. If you can’t get that with a combination of iso/apeture/shutter speed. Then try an ND filter.
May 19th, 2007 at 2:04 am
Salam my friends i hope ok and have a great time good luck.
May 19th, 2007 at 2:05 am
I love landscape photography. For me composition is key. Even if the lighting suffers, good composition can save a photograph. I would add that if you happen to be somewhere in the middle of the day and perhaps are not an early riser or late bedtime person, go for infrareds or black & whites. Infrareds require more light and sometimes the extra shadows of midday make great black & white images. Lastly, take lots of images so you get the perfect shot, but DON’T post them all. Pick the best and post it. Nothing ruins a trip album more than multiple pictures where you just shifted your feet.
May 19th, 2007 at 2:17 am
What kind of camera would you like to suggest. People recommend for heavy weight camera’s .Hey! brand you use .
May 19th, 2007 at 3:04 am
In terms of foreground that yellow lines down on the tarmac shot would be greatly boosted if there were the remains of a coyote in the shot right up close and gruesome…
…or maybe not.
May 19th, 2007 at 3:19 am
Another thing to consider for reall sharp focus is using miror lockup along with a remote or cable release (the same results can be accomplished with the use of the camera timer). This is especially important if you are using the center column of your tripod which can make the camera very shaky.
May 19th, 2007 at 3:40 am
I especially love that last shot where the camera was put down onto the ground. What a great idea. I did that once when taking a picture of myself. I was motorcycling through Vermont and put the camera down on the ground. I angled it up to myself and set the self timer. It’s a nice idea. You just have to be careful because the background is all sky. On a sunny day the aperture will adjust for the sky and you’ll end up all dark. A fill in flash would help alleviate this. But most importantly you have to watch that exposure. This is where Aperture Priority mode comes in for those of us w/ dSLRs.
Here’s the shot I’m talking about:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jozefsk/62112882/
And here’s another one w/ the camera on the ground while I stand next to my motorcycle:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jozefsk/62113058/
May 19th, 2007 at 4:02 am
It would be helpful if for the example photos you could post the settings at which the picture was taken, and whether or not there was heavy post-processing done.
For a beginner like myself trying to replicate some shots to learn, I find it hard without the settings to base my shot on. As well, sometimes I find out it isn’t possible to get the shot without lots of photo manipulation afterwards.
Anyway, those examples were great and the tips quite helpful.
May 19th, 2007 at 6:02 am
Wow! I can hardly wait to get home and grab my camera… this is inspiring!
I love, love, love the picture by 3amfromkyoto next to #8. (I only love, love the rest. :D )
May 19th, 2007 at 6:08 am
Great stuff… I was getting bored of landscape photography, but these new tips will help me to get some good shoots out of it!
May 19th, 2007 at 6:50 am
Not just dawn and dusk are important for the light. It’s autumn here in Rio de Janeiro, and you won’t find a better season to photograph. By far it is the best light. Midday in Autumn is better than dawn in summer.
May 19th, 2007 at 7:26 am
These are some of the best, well written, landscape tips I have seen in a long time. Great info here for the beginner as well as a good refresher for those familliar with the subject.
May 19th, 2007 at 11:39 am
Great stuff! Beautiful shots. Perhaps youcan get some exposure posting on this new site; http://www.408sj.com. Its new and different. Check it out
May 19th, 2007 at 2:11 pm
A consideration for the digital SLR users out there is that when you use small apertures(16+) it’s good to make sure your sensor is free of dust. Dust which can’t be seen at F/5.6 suddenly becomes a blob at F/22.
May 19th, 2007 at 2:52 pm
I like to poop,poop poop poop.
I want to poop on these tips.
They are fine/good or whatever, the examples are nice but in the hands of the people they will largely be more dull crap.
May 19th, 2007 at 7:32 pm
So Susan - how about you write us something that will help people to something other than ‘dull crap’? Easy to take a pot shot like that but how about showing us what you know about photography - if you know what you’re talking about I’d love to publish it!
May 19th, 2007 at 8:05 pm
Thanks for the tips! I spend a lot of time while shooting the landscapes and most of these tips are already well known for my, but it is very good to have them at one place.
May 19th, 2007 at 8:19 pm
Great tips! Maybe you can as well add UV filters for photographing more vivid skies with rich colors, and for eliminating the reflection of water…
May 19th, 2007 at 11:13 pm
I have a LUMIX Z50 lovely easy camera to use,good zoom with Leica lenses. Wondereful for scenery. I am still learning and would like to say how much I have learnt since being a member of your site. You make it so easy to understand and I want to thankyou for helping us out here. Love the scenery write up this week. Also liked your Macro write a time back. I adore macro.
May 20th, 2007 at 2:25 am
well…
True and nice.
but these are just some kind of skills.
If u want acheive more, u need to break them.
similar to painting…
May 20th, 2007 at 2:45 am
Excellent advice and love the pic on this post!
May 20th, 2007 at 5:08 am
Awesome. Thanks for illustrating with such relevant and excellent shots.
May 20th, 2007 at 7:23 am
Excellent guide! The lesson convey using the flower was excellent. Although I know what DOF, this article makes it much more clear. I even write myself some notes
f/1.4 = small f/# = small DOF = large aperture = more light
f/22 = large f/# = large DOF = small aperture = less light
thanks a million.
May 20th, 2007 at 4:48 pm
Wow, those photos are great!
May 21st, 2007 at 6:14 pm
Great photos and great tips. The difficulty for most amateurs who love taking landscapes is how to get to the great outdoors to take pictures like these at dawn or evening except on holiday.
I try to take as many pictures as possible when I am away but a lot of places I visit are not in the great outdoors.
As with many other aspects of photography your lessons are great.
May 21st, 2007 at 8:32 pm
Someone should point out to “painting portraits with photos” that his “school-boy camera” merely TAKES the pictures. He is the one who MAKES his pictures…by changing position, by waiting for expressions to develop or by taking many images and discarding all but the best. His present camera may well be all he really needs.
Motorcycle Joe suggests only “those of us with a dSLR” have access to aperture priority and misleads others…most advanced P&S digicams offer this and as many more “dSLR features”, plus single zoom lens convenience, lighter weight, movies if you’re interested, and lower cost. Yes, most dSLR digicams do have larger sensors and can produce larger-than-11×14-prints. So when was the last time you wanted/needed/or made a larger than 11×14 print?
And Susan Tomla’s childish “comment” doesn’t even deserve your response, Darren.
May 24th, 2007 at 12:51 am
Great tips, that picture by number 6 is amazing.
May 24th, 2007 at 2:55 am
I love landscape photography. It’s another passion of mine. thanks for the info and thanks for adding me on stumble. Cheers!
May 24th, 2007 at 4:36 am
Really great tips, I need to write these down for easy reference. Landscape photography (along with portrait photography) is something I really struggle with, these tips were especially timely for me.
May 25th, 2007 at 6:28 am
Very helpful article, great recap concisely done with wonderful supporting pictures. Thanks and well done!
May 25th, 2007 at 7:38 pm
extremely informative for landscape photographers. Images above displayed r amazing keep going
May 27th, 2007 at 12:30 pm
I also find that patience is a key to some excellent photo ops…I just took a shot today of a hummingbird and I sat at my window FOREVER waiting for it, but now that I have the shot I wanted, it was all worth it!
June 26th, 2007 at 2:54 am
You take incredible photos of God’s creation! Wow!
June 26th, 2007 at 7:32 am
From Germany Koln. Miaraj
SOO BUTIFUL PICTURE THANKS TO MUCH.
i need like these picture to much thanks from sending these pictures and have a great time.
July 7th, 2007 at 8:04 am
Great tips. Now I am going on a vacation and I will use these advices. Thank you!
Regards,
William
July 7th, 2007 at 1:48 pm
Great photography tips. Thank you!
July 10th, 2007 at 9:17 am
thx for the great tips!!! my problem has always been too lazy in bringing the tripod with me :P
guest this should be something i have to reconsider
July 12th, 2007 at 8:57 am
Some great ideas to try out. Thanks!
July 15th, 2007 at 1:53 am
Incredible and wonderful! Thanks!!
August 16th, 2007 at 10:36 am
Great article, good to see people helping amateur photographers out.
August 23rd, 2007 at 10:01 pm
Good advice
December 8th, 2007 at 12:58 am
Really great ideas to try. Thanks for sharing
January 9th, 2008 at 4:03 am
very nice tips! they would come in very handy. thanks for sharing them
February 25th, 2008 at 5:59 am
What is a good, reasonably priced digital camera for taking landscape photographs? I also started out with a 35mm Minolta film cam and haven’t yet found something to replace it. I live in the Southwest and want to capture the wide open landscape and take macro shots as well. Any advice?
Thanks :)
March 4th, 2008 at 9:28 am
Nice images and interesting suggestions - great for people not in the know…Good job!
April 27th, 2008 at 2:01 am
i appreciate your information.
relating to this subject please send the most popular cameras .
realy good site
thanks
April 28th, 2008 at 8:58 am
Some very useful tips here!