An Introduction to Architectural Photography
I am a professional architectural photographer working out of Denver, Colorado. I have photographed over 4500 homes and buildings, and I can claim Colorado’s highest producing Real Estate agents as dedicated customers.
Photographing homes and buildings presents a unique set of challenges for a shooter. There are any number of variables that affect each project, this is an outline on how to make the best photos possible under any circumstance.
Equipment
First, let’s talk about equipment. This is a basic equipment list, the ‘gotta haves’, if you will.
- Digital SLR, at least 10mp. I use a Nikon D300 and a Nikon D200 for my daily work.
- 12mm lens (18mm after sensor accomodations). I use a Sigma 12mm, this lens provides zero barrel distortion.
- Tripod with geared head. Making fine adjustments is critical for producing top quality images.
- Hotshoe bubble level. Keeping things nice and level will improve your images greatly.
- Flash Units. I use six SB-800’s, but you can get away with just one.
- Expo Disc. White balance is a huge pain in situations where there are several mixed types of lighting. An Expo Disc will solve this.

Specifics
Let’s get into some specifics. The list below is more about the nebulous aspect of architectural photography, technical details will follow.
Taking fantastic photos of homes and buildings is less challenging if you remember these few things:
- Let the building/home tell it’s story. Your job is to provide an accurate representation of the unit to your customer. If the home is dark, don’t try to blast it with light. If the home is bright, don’t shutter up the windows. A client will prefer images with dark corners or blown out windows to heavily flashed or shaded areas.
- The house IS what it IS. You will inevitably run into a real estate agent or seller that sees the home as something it is not. You simply cannot make a $120k condo look like a $5 million dollar estate. Once again, your job is to provide an accurate representation to the customer. You may find yourself acting as a diplomat trying to explain this to an anxious seller.
- Always remember that you are in someone’s home, not a studio or an office. Being formal and cordial is essential. You will be accessing all areas of a home, and you want the occupants to feel comfortable. Always be well groomed, and wear clean white socks every day (you will be removing your shoes in many homes). I have over 100 pairs of socks that look brand new. Clean socks that have discolored soles may as well be dirty.
- Nature will always win. If you take pictures on a cloudy day, the images will show it. This is true of interiors and exteriors. There is a myth that cloudy days are better for shooting interiors, I have found this to be demonstrably false. If your client can wait for clear weather, then wait.
- Over shoot. Take pictures from any angle you can find, as you gain experience, great shots will present themselves.

Technical Tips
Here are some technical tips to ensure that you are getting the best shots possible:
- Use wide apertures and long shutter times, this will provide warmth and will keep the shots from looking like crime scene photos. Add a touch of flash (1/64th) to combat color shift and to add highlights to the scene. I generally keep my ISO at 400 or 640. Anything faster is too grainy, anything slower shifts the colors too much.
- Take advantage of the wide angle. A 12mm lens will allow you to get great shots of even the smallest powder room, and will show large spaces very accurately.
- Stand back. Hold the camera to your eye and back up until you have the widest shot you can get, then you can set the tripod down and compose your shot. Don’t be afraid to include doorjambs into the shots, it will give the viewer a natural sense of depth.
- Keep the camera below eye level of an average person. I have mine set to around 4.5ft, the lower angle will take the images out of the ’snapshot’ category.
- Keep your sensor clean.
- Take light measurements from the darkest part of the scene and adjust your exposure from there. It is always better to underexpose than to overexpose.
- When shooting exteriors, think of the building as the center point of a large circle. Walk the entire circle, shooting every time you see an appealing angle.

Workflow Tips
Here are some tips regarding computer processing and data management:
- Edit the images as little as possible, get the best shot you can while on site. People are getting very savvy and will be able to pick out a heavily manipulated image in a heart beat. Limit your edits to color correction and resizing, if possible.
- Develop a data management strategy. Shooting is only half of the job, you will need to keep your images organized and safe. I get calls several times a week from agents asking for images from last week, last year, or the year before. Being able to find them quickly will make you look more professional. I have 1 TB of space that holds my images in Aperture libraries, finding an image is as simple as doing a search for the home’s address.
- Develop an efficient workflow. The last thing you want is to be spending more time at the computer than you did actually shooting. Use an application like Aperture 2 or Adobe LightRoom to manage your files, you will not be sorry.
That’s pretty much all there is to it. Just like all types of professional photography, you will need experience to define your style, and it’s your style that will bring in the $$$. So my advice is to shoot shoot shoot. One last note, be passionate about your images. People ask me all of the time if I get bored shooting houses everyday. They don’t understand the satisfaction I receive from the work, and that’s the way it should be.
Good luck shooters!


31 Responses to “An Introduction to Architectural Photography” - Add Yours
August 8th, 2008 at 12:26 am
Interesting article, thanks!
I hadn’t come across the Expo Disc before, looks like a neat tool.
August 8th, 2008 at 1:14 am
Thanks for sharing the insights. It is always good to hear from real pros. I am not a professional photographer but I think “They don’t understand the satisfaction I receive from the work, and that’s the way it should be.” applies to everyone, even amateurs.
@Tim Harris: It is ExpoDisc. There is ExpoCap as well.
August 8th, 2008 at 1:21 am
What a great article! Thanks. As an architect my self I have been getting more into architectural photography. I have my first house shoot coming up and this article has given me some great tips to practice beforehand.
Thanks again!
August 8th, 2008 at 1:27 am
Well written article. I’m not sure the need for 10mp is a minimum though. You’re using a 12mm lens so you’re not cropping. Are your prints larger than 20×30 or even 30×40? I can print 30×40 with a 6mp Nikon D50.
I’d like to know where you had 6 SB-800’s setup in the large sitting area shot or how you had your lights setup. The shot is great.
http://www.petelanglois.net
August 8th, 2008 at 1:29 am
Hi Darren,
I’m a beginner architectural photographer in Seattle and I was curious how you expose or manipulate photos to have the outside show through windows and doors, as well as have the photo exposed for the inside as well?
August 8th, 2008 at 1:42 am
Wide aperture and long shutter time? I think you made a mistake there.
August 8th, 2008 at 2:10 am
Great article for the person looking to get into the real estate business with their photography.
Photographers are always interested in learning more about photography, but I especially liked your tips on the business side. Professional dress and the white socks are a definite must. It doesn’t matter how great your photographs are – it’s the first impression that will help grow your business.
August 8th, 2008 at 2:23 am
“Take light measurements from the darkest part of the scene and adjust your exposure from there. It is always better to underexpose than to overexpose.”
With digital photography there is much more information in the right side of the histogram than the left. With RAW images you can nicely pull back detail from an overexposed image within a stop or maybe two, but in an underexposed image you cannot increase the exposure without introducing noise. Better to overexpose with digital than underexpose.
Metering the dark part of the scene and exposing for that WILL overexpose the remainder of the scene, not underexpose it, so I would recommend that, although it think the author intended to say the opposite based on the overexposure caveat.
August 8th, 2008 at 2:48 am
This was very interesting, I am no where near being a pro at shooting photos, but all the advice in this article is priceless. It’s great to read up on different techniques and solutions for getting the perfect shot.
August 8th, 2008 at 3:27 am
Looks like 12-24mm ultra wide angle lens may just be the next lens for me to go for :)
August 8th, 2008 at 4:04 am
Sorry for sounding negative, but with the expensive equipment you advise, I find the pictures not very impressive. Could be bad conversion to webformat.
August 8th, 2008 at 4:36 am
Another method to take interior photos with dark shadows and bright highlights (high dynamic range) is to use a tripod, expose 3, 5, 7, or 9 exposures – one as the camera meter sees it and the rest * / – EV settings (Exposure Value) of varying degrees (i.e.: -3EV, -2EV, -1EV, 0EV, +1EV, +2EV, +3EV). Then use HDR software (Photoshop C2, PS C3 or Photomatix Pro) to get one image with a high dynamic range just like you see with your eyes.
August 8th, 2008 at 5:45 am
Here’s a very techie article that explains the point made by Steven:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml
Enjoy
August 8th, 2008 at 6:06 am
Hello everyone, I am the author. Thank you so much for the comments, Steven – good call on the the histogram info. And yes, I intended the opposite of my statement. I can’t be bothered with minor details like what order words should go. Seriously, nice catch, thanks. I did not consider your method of pulling the histogram down during editing when I wrote the article, but I will use the tip!
Regarding the SB-800’s. The Nikon AWL is awesome. The units can be placed wherever you need light, as long as there is a line of sight between the master unit and the remote units. All iTTL info is transmitted to the the remotes. Placing the lights can be tricky, but it is amazing how creative you can get. I also have a pair of PocketWizard radio units if I need to put the light out of sight, but it’s strictly manual for the radio remotes. Depending on the volume of space you need to light, choose the widest aperture and only add enough light to add highlights where needed. For me, an overall natural feeling is better than a heavily staged and lighted scene. So, admittedly, I don’t blast a scene if I have a choice. But there will be occasions when it will be necessary, you can see examples at http://www.curbappealphoto.com, it’s my main site with lots of fancy lighting and stuff.
I have other tips at http://www.picherthis.com
Thanks again!
August 8th, 2008 at 6:09 am
Don’t forget photoshop on the list of tools. Shooting in RAW will allow for those final light adjustments and line corrects. Often you will need additional lighting for clients like designers and architects, It all depends on your clients needs.
Rosh
http://www.newmediaphotographer.com
August 8th, 2008 at 6:51 am
ive been using an expo disc for the past year …love it …but just using a coffee filter ….only white ones will work ..does the same thing …dont waist 100$ on the disc unless you have the money…take the coffee filter and place it over the lens …take your picture …canon has to be on manual to do it …..then go in your white balance setting and ajust …just like you would do with a heat card ….you can see the video on you tube …i think …its kinda complicated to explain …and go to expo disc for the manual ….just use a coffee filter instead….good luck …it realy works ….tell me how you guys and gals did …acierman2006@yahoo.ca
August 8th, 2008 at 7:09 am
Interesting article. I would have liked to see more about how you address the problem of lighting. Also, a bit about perspective distortion and how you correct it.
Maybe it wouldn’t hurt to at least mention PC lenses for those who might want to make this a career.
August 8th, 2008 at 7:51 am
Hi Picherthis,
I’m glad you jumped on and gave us a link to your website. I’m like Jason and really would like to know how you shoot an interior without blowing out the windows or the view out the windows. Do you care to share?
August 8th, 2008 at 6:55 pm
Really interesting article ….. i wanted to see some more pictures …
August 8th, 2008 at 11:43 pm
“I generally keep my ISO at 400 or 640. Anything faster is too grainy, anything slower shifts the colors too much.”
I’m new and don’t understand the connection between slow ISO and color shift. If someone could explain, I’d appreciate it.
Thanks!
August 8th, 2008 at 11:51 pm
This is a very interesting article about photographing architecture. I’ve been interested in doing that for some time now, and all my shots seemed weird for me. Then your line about shooting below eye-level made perfect sense, and helped me figure out what was fundamentally wrong with my approach, and therefore my photos. All my photos had that snapshot feel to them, and it just didn’t work for me. I will definitely try shooting from below eye-level next time around.
Thank you so much for that advice, and therefore this article.
August 9th, 2008 at 12:06 am
This is great.. thank you. And do you use the standard or ‘warm’ Expodisc?
Also, could you maybe link the Sigma 12mm you say you’re using? I can’t seem to find it for some reason. I have the Sigma 10-20mm but for indoor scenes it wouldn’t work very well because of distortion, so to be able to find a lens that wouldn’t give me distortion would be great for these types of shots.
August 9th, 2008 at 12:35 am
After visiting http://www.curbappealphoto.com I take back my previous negative comment! Nice sharp and clear pictures of interiors.
Shooting a lot in low-light situations with higher ISO I prefer the expose to the right method, less noise after postprocessing.
August 9th, 2008 at 2:56 am
Great tips in this article – tips which could apply to anyone photographing any building for any reason. My only complaint comes from not saying a more general “digital camera” and limiting it to DSLRs only.
August 9th, 2008 at 9:24 am
Claggy, I suppose there is a chance that Sigma stopped making the 12-24mm to make the 10mm. That would be a huge bummer, especially if the 10mm is distorted. If you zoom to 12mm, is it still distorted? Also, I bought the first generation ExpoDisc, I assume it is the ’standard’ model.
Ryan, also make sure all vertical lines are straight. Combined with a lower POV, you will get the results you are looking for.
Saju, you can see more at http://www.curbappealphoto.com!
Brandon, I am putting together a guide on ‘bringing the outside in’ , I will ask if they will post it here, if not it will be on my blog. http://www.picherthis.com
Bruce, the way I eliminate distortion is the use of a great lens (Sigma 12-24mm), a geared head tripod, and a bubble level. All three of those components used in concert will minimize distortion.
Paul, awesome tip! Good way to save $150!
Thanks again for all of the great comments, especially Rolograaf.
August 9th, 2008 at 9:45 am
I’m curious as to why a MP count of 10 or more was specified in the minimum equipment list. Unless you need to do large prints that number of pixels is completely unnecessary, and even then a 1D can produce very large, sharp prints with only 4MP worth of data.
August 9th, 2008 at 10:18 am
GEli, the 10mp requirement isnt about prints as much as it is about data. Fewer pixels mean less data, and achieving high level digital shots is all about data. The quality of the image is much better at 10mp+ compared to a low resolution camera, plain and simple. I think once you shoot with all of those extra pixels, you will change your mind right away, the difference is remarkable.
August 11th, 2008 at 10:47 pm
Thank you for this article. I am in real estate and welcome the suggestions of improving my shots. I appreciate the simple suggestions of having clean white socks. This makes a statement to the home owners that I care about their home as much as they do. Also, to respect the character of the home is important. I have seen agents misrepresent properties. To present property in their purest form is wise. I use a Canon 17-55mm, 2.8. I had a 10-22mm but the pictures looked curved. How does the Sigma 12mm work without distortion?
August 12th, 2008 at 11:02 pm
Hi all
If you want to take ao look at mt work:
http://Www.ultimasreportagens.com
I’m an architect and a architectural photographer working with the leading portuguese architets.
More than 250 projects on line.
Thanks
fernando guerra
Fernando
August 13th, 2008 at 3:35 am
Great tips, I’m going to give shooting with the camera below eye level a try.
October 27th, 2009 at 10:55 pm
I have a nikon d300 and the 12-24 its not the 2.8 model though just wondering would this lense be a good one to start with thanks.
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