A Beginners Guide to Capturing Motion in Your Photography
Emily Hancock, a professional Hampshire Photographer recently submitted the following tutorial to our forum on Capturing Motion in Photography.
Image by T.MoE
Photographs, by definition, capture and immortalize a small slice of life. There is little for the viewer to infer what happens before or after that moment. However, there are images that need to communicate motion. For example, you may want to capture a dog running, a train barreling down the tracks, or trees that are blowing in the wind. Each of these scenes can come alive within your photographs if you learn how to convey motion properly.
Today, I’ll describe how you can use different shutter speeds and panning to capture motion in your photography. I’ll also explain a potential issue you might experience along with tips to resolve it.
Reasons To Capture Motion
Beginning photographers have likely seen captivating photographs that capture motion which they’d like to duplicate. There are several ways to accomplish this and each has a slightly different goal. Sometimes, there is a need to blur certain elements in the image while focusing sharply on a few subjects in the foreground. Other times, you may want to freeze or blur everything. The direction you take depends upon your objective for your photograph.
A lot of photographers capture motion simply to convey that an object is moving. But, there are other reasons to so. Movement can communicate mood. Trees rustling in the wind suggest serenity while throngs of people on a busy city block imply harried activity.
You can also use motion to eliminate elements in a scene that may serve as distractions to the viewer. For example, you may want to photograph a person standing on a sidewalk corner as cars move behind him. By blurring everything but your primary subject (i.e. the man on the corner), you can eliminate potential distractions and focus the viewer’s attention.
Two Primary Techniques For Capturing Motion
The shutter speed that you use while photographing a scene plays a key role in capturing motion in your image. The faster the shutter speed, the sharper the focus on your subject. On the other hand, a slower shutter speed will blur a moving object. There are two main approaches (we’ll discuss a couple of alternatives in a moment).
1. Blurred Subject With Background In Focus

photo by paulaloe
Let’s assume you’re photographing a speeding train against a wall of trees in the background. You can blur the train while leaving the trees in focus. Doing so would instantly communicate to the viewer that the train is moving quickly. To accomplish this, you would use a slow shutter speed. (It’s also important to use a tripod. That way, your camera remains steady.) You’ll often see this technique used in nighttime photographs with car headlights cutting through the image.

Image by Extra Medium
2. Blurred Background With Subject In Focus
This second technique keeps your photograph’s subject in sharp focus while the background is blurred. Using our train example, the train would be in focus and the wall of trees would be blurred, thereby conveying the train’s movement. Similar to the first method, you need to use a slow shutter speed. However, instead of using a tripod, you’ll be panning your camera along the directional path of your subject.
Panning Explained

Photo by fabbriciuse
Most beginning photographers are trained to “secure” their cameras. That is, your camera should remain as still as possible for certain types of shots. By contrast, panning requires that you move your camera with your subject. Specifically, you’ll be matching your subject’s rate of movement and the direction in which it is traveling.
In our train example, assume the man on the bike is moving from east to west. In that case, you’ll need to pan your camera along the same direction, matching the speed of the bike. The best results occur when you have a clear view of the moving object and ample room to swivel your camera along a parallel axis to it.
Panning effectively can be difficult. You can practice and perfect your technique by photographing athletes who move quickly (for example, basketball players). Try to capture their facial expressions while blurring everything in the background. It will take some time to get it right, but once you do, the technique can be a valuable addition to your repertoire.
Other Techniques To Capture Motion
Besides the two main techniques described above, you can also freeze the entire field of vision or blur everything. Freezing the entire scene can give your photographs a unique look, especially if the objects strongly imply movement. For example, consider a bird that is flying in front of a waterfall. Both imply motion to the viewer. Freezing the entire scene captures that motion in a single moment and can produce a breathtaking image. You should use a shutter speed of at least 1/1000th of a second for this type of shot.

Photo by llimllib
Blurring everything produces the best results when the scene offers bright, contrasting colors or varying shades on the grayscale. In most cases, capturing motion in this manner is done purely for artistic purposes.
Another effective method for capturing motion within your images is ‘chrono photography’.

Photo by monkeyc
Using the continuous shooting feature on your camera, you can capture a series of shots and join them together in the post processing stage to create the effect shown above. A tripod is essential when attempting to shoot motion using this method.

Image by Jolantis
Determine The Proper Shutter Speed
A lot of novice photographers ask what the proper shutter speed is, given their objective for their photographs. Every situation is unique. One speed doesn’t suit all circumstances. To identify the right shutter speed, you’ll need to ask yourself a few questions:
- How fast is your subject moving?
- How much distance exists between the camera and the subject?
- How much motion do you want your photograph to convey to the viewer?
The faster the shutter speed, the more frozen and crisply-defined your subject will be. Most cameras today will allow you to freeze a scene using 1/8000th of a second or faster. That being said, the numbers only serve as a rough guideline. You’ll need to experiment with different shutter speeds in a variety of situations.
Potential Issue: Excess Light
When you slow your shutter speed to blur elements in your image, there’s a chance that too much light will enter and impact your photograph. It’s a common problem, but there are a couple of ways to resolve it. First, check the aperture on your camera. The larger it is, the more likely excess light will enter. Try adjusting the settings to reduce its size. Second, review the setting of your ISO. When it is set high, the image sensor in your camera may be overly-sensitive to light. This can create unwanted noise in your image.
Mastering The Art Of Motion Capture
Like other photography skills, becoming proficient at capturing motion requires practice and experience. You’ll need to spend time learning how shutter speeds will impact the quality of your images. Even if you’re just setting your camera on its tripod, timing a perfect shot of a fast-moving object can be difficult. In the end, capturing motion in your photography is part technique and part art. Fortunately, with practice, you can master it.
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39 Responses to “A Beginners Guide to Capturing Motion in Your Photography” - Add Yours
November 12th, 2008 at 12:15 am
Wonderfull post, thanks for sharing your indsight into this subject.
November 12th, 2008 at 1:24 am
I want to learn how to make the flash go off at the end of a long exposure, to capture motion while holding the camera still, in a dark environment.
Do you need an external flash for this? (I have a Rebel XTi) I just ordered an external flash, but don’t know how to set it to go off at the end vs the beginning.
November 12th, 2008 at 1:55 am
great how-to on shooting motion, a technique that is not the easiest to do… well… but makes for some great dramatic images, thanks for the how-to.
November 12th, 2008 at 2:17 am
Great article… very comprehensive. Panning is a technique that I like a lot but it does take practice! Here’s one of my favorite panning shots:
http://www.willbl.com/2006/08/chicken-run/
There are also some great motion photos here:
http://www.earthshots.org/photos/motion/
November 12th, 2008 at 3:03 am
@Jessica First off, I think you need to be in Av, Tv, or M modes to have manual control of the flash. Once you’re in one of these three, go to Menu -> Flash settings, and select something that says ‘rear curtain’ or ’second curtain’ sync.
November 12th, 2008 at 3:40 am
Jessica,
On the XTi you can set it to shoot with the rear curtain. Click Menu then find Custom Functions. It’ll be Custom Function #9. You’ll want to set it to second curtain.
That should do it!
November 12th, 2008 at 7:50 am
I like the effect you get with ‘chrono photography’ but I’d like to know more about the post processing side of that technique… any offers!
November 12th, 2008 at 11:41 am
Great post! I love how simple the information is laid out. Last weekend I tried taking some shots of a band in a very low lit atmosphere and they moved around a lot and I found myself very frustrated as all the pictures came out blurry. I looked up some tips but failed to use a tripod as most posts didn’t specify one.
November 12th, 2008 at 12:12 pm
here’s a really detailed instruction… from another forum:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=3372332&postcount=11
November 12th, 2008 at 12:15 pm
also… you can just cut and paste one pic on top of the other..just make sure that you align everything.
November 12th, 2008 at 1:04 pm
@ Mandy:
It’s pretty easy!
All you need is to have either PhotoShop, FireWorks, or GIMP.
What you do is open all images (in the case of the skateboarer above it’s 3) as separate layers in one document. Then, pick the image with the clearest overall composure (you can eyeball this) and designate it as the “base” image. Then take the the other images (layers) and using the polygonal lasso tool select the item of interest (ie the skateboarder). Then use the “invert selection” tool and feather the selected area for about 4-7 pixels. Then press delete (not backspace). Do this for all of your points of interest and you should be all set!!! (Send me an email at jcurtis@andover.edu and tell me how it goes!)
November 13th, 2008 at 3:36 am
Wow nice post, It really help with my next pix,
Gracias!
Martin
November 13th, 2008 at 5:14 am
Thanks for the tips. I found the custom function. I guess I need to use my trip as well, to get a better effect and prevent blurring
November 13th, 2008 at 5:17 am
Good article with very informative tips. Thanks good work
November 13th, 2008 at 5:22 am
I was just playing around with the 2nd curtain, and I noticed that the (internal) flash goes off at the beginning AND the end. Is there a way to set it to it only goes off at the end?
November 13th, 2008 at 2:01 pm
thank you for the great tips. i can’t wait to try these out on my future photos.
November 14th, 2008 at 9:22 pm
Hey all this i a great post I love slow shutter speeds. I was at an air show not so long ago and I learned a very simple thing that can help with panning. Keep both eyes open one on your subject and one through your view finder. I could never pan properly because when the shutter opened I couldn’t see my subject anymore until it closed again, by which time my subject was either a blur or completely out of the frame. Maybe I was just being dumb, but I’m sure this may help someone
November 15th, 2008 at 1:17 am
great…..it’s good to informed by u…can’t wait to practice it…thx a lot.:)
November 15th, 2008 at 2:12 am
Blurred Background With Subject In Focus,
I was just reading about this a couple of weeks ago and one of the tips that was mentioned is to turn from the hips/waist. I tend to turn my shoulders. It was also mentioned that, “You’ll be lucky to get one useable shot out of ten-twenty.” so take many pictures until you get one that works.
November 15th, 2008 at 11:39 am
Jessica,
Are you sure that the first flash going off is actually the ‘flash’ and not the flash probe for autofocus? You can confirm this by switching to manual focus and then trying out the 2nd curtain flash.
November 18th, 2008 at 9:49 pm
All of this information is great for those folks who don’t have vision impairment. Although my Nikon has a diopter, it just isn’t enough for me to use my camera in the manual mode.
Because of this, I manipulate most of my photos in PhotoShop.
It’s ‘cheating’ in a way but it’s all I can do for now. The flip side is, I have taught myself a great deal about PhotoShop and am learning more all the time.
I envy all of you who use just your camera to achieve such marvelous images without the aide of imaging software. YOU are the professionals! Thanks for sharing your wonderful photos.
November 19th, 2008 at 6:20 am
I can’t believe you failed to mention neutral density filters for reducing the amount of light coming in, under the heading “Potential Issue: Excess Light”. ND and GND filters can be quite useful. Not to knock the article; it’s a great posting.
I’d also like to add zooming, which I don’t think I saw mentioned. Another very unique blur effect to enhance feelings of movement. At a relatively slow shutter speed, zoom in or out while the shutter is open. That’s the basic premise. Results are something like this – http://blogs.reuters.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/02/Zoom%20-%20Low%20Res.jpg Although that photo hasn’t much to do with lightning movement per se, the same effect can be used with something that does move fast to build upon that notion. On the search for examples, I ran across this. I hope the moderators don’t mind if I include a link to another article. It explains the technique in detail and gives it a name. http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Creative-zoom-bursts
November 19th, 2008 at 5:33 pm
Great timing, we have a comp at the local club with ‘dreaming’ as the theme, how good is this information
thanks
November 20th, 2008 at 6:06 am
My Ultimate motion photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mnedermeijer/175269463/in/set-72157605119375828/
December 12th, 2008 at 7:56 am
Great article – enjoyed the variations.
One of my personal favs. Stood over my brothers shoulder with a longer shutter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/blonboy/2290056099/
December 16th, 2008 at 4:39 am
Thankyou! Wonderful article for the beginner… me! I took notes so that I can have them with me when I’m out shooting ;)
January 6th, 2009 at 6:47 pm
Generally Ido not post on blogs, but I would like to say that this post really forced me to do so! really nice post.
January 8th, 2009 at 10:44 pm
I just love your weblog! Very nice post! Actually you can do many thing to imporve it.
January 20th, 2009 at 4:25 pm
nice blog… just learned how to shot well.. really learn a lots.
thanks,
kenny
January 20th, 2009 at 6:07 pm
I used to be a homeless rodeo clown but now I am a world class magician !
January 23rd, 2009 at 5:10 am
Sweet! Love it. Gotta try it. Again, sometimes (rarely) this effect happened for me and I thought it was tres cool… but I had no clue how to replicate it.
January 23rd, 2009 at 2:12 pm
A very helpful tips for a beginner like me. I’m using a d50 nikon dslr with 18-70mm kit lens. I would like to purchase another lens with low light capability, which is not that expensive. I like shooting nature, landscape, portraite, sport and school indoor activities for my kids. Could you give me an advise for which lens is good to purchase. thanks.
May 6th, 2009 at 9:05 am
I would really like to try the Blurred Background With Subject In Focus. It sounds pretty hard but the result must be all worth it!
May 24th, 2009 at 3:09 am
Keep up the good work. Look forward to reading more from you in the future.
August 6th, 2009 at 5:32 am
2. Blurred Background With Subject In Focus
-i used to take a pic of myself with my camera phone while spinning on a swivel chair- try it guys just to see hw it works
August 26th, 2009 at 8:58 am
What a fantastic lesson on motion photography. Mastering my camera has been a challenge, and I’m still not quite there yet, but things are just starting to “click” for me. I absolutely love this website and find the lessons invaluable.
September 14th, 2009 at 1:46 am
This is great tutorial on motion photography. It helped quite a bit with a project I’m working on. Thanks very much.
October 24th, 2009 at 3:26 am
Thank you so much. I had missed my Photo101 class and our assignment was capturing motion, this helped me clear up so much confusion. Thanks!
December 17th, 2009 at 8:28 pm
dude. these photo’s are sick.
to jessica. i have the same problem with rear (or second) curtain sync.
my flash flashes at both beggining and end. i dont have a rebel, i have 30d. reasonable similar.
thanx for the tips broseph
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