7 Tips for Shooting better Timelapse
A guest post by Neelima Vallangi from the Wandering Soul’s Wander Tales.
Timelapse photography is one of the very interesting ways to capture motion. The results are almost always stunning. Moving clouds, changing light and shadows, celestial motion, growing things, flowing water, buzzing city life make for great subjects among many.
Timelapse photography is essentially shooting images of a chosen subject continuously at a specified interval and then making a movie out of it. Let’s say it is progression of time in fast forward mode. Making a timelapse might look very complicated, but with few things in mind, you could create your own masterpiece.
Below you can see the timelapse video that I had shot during my recent visit to the Himalayan Desert Valley of Spiti, India. These are few tips that I learnt from my first attempt at Timelapse photography and the mistakes that I made.
- Get Rid of Auto – Everything in your camera has to remain constant as the subject changes. Set the camera to manual mode before you start shooting. This includes ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture and Whitebalance. If you have never shot in Manual mode, you could always take a shot in the aperture priority or shutter priority mode and then use the same settings in manual mode.
- Focus Manually – Auto Focus before you start shooting and then change the focus to Manual. Else before every shot, the camera will try to autofocus eating away precious battery time and also will cause glitches in the movie. (You can find signs of this in my video below.)
- Save up memory by shooting in low res – If you are going on a long vacation to places with little or no accessibility to electricity, memory is going to be a problem. More often than not, your video wouldn’t be required at a full resolution of 15.1 MP or such. Reduce the resolution as much as possible to save up space and shoot.
- Anticipate the motion and compose – Anticipate the movement of your subject in the coming minutes/hours and compose your shot so that the change in movement as time passes would fall within your frame.
- Improvise if you lack equipment – While an intervalometer is indispensable, if you don’t have one, don’t fret and instead use a remote shutter release to fire shots manually at the specified time interval. It is going to be tiring for sure, but hey something is almost always better than nothing. Although, pressing the button with hands is a strict no-no. Even a slight shake will cause glitches in the video again.
- Music is just as important – Now that you’ve shot all the shots and the video is ready, you might feel something is missing. Just as the photos are a treat to the eye, music is a treat to the ears and both of them together can create great impact. So spend sometime choosing suitable background score.
- Last but not the least, practice – Only once you shoot a timelapse or two, you will get a clearer picture of how many shots are required and at what interval.
This video above was shot at a 3MP resolution in Manual Mode with a remote shutter release.
What do you think of the timelapse that I have shot and what are your learnings so far? Tell me about your experience shooting timelapse in the comments below.
See more from Neelima Vallangi on her Travel and Photography blog and Flickr Page.




43 Responses to “7 Tips for Shooting better Timelapse” - Add Yours
November 11th, 2010 at 5:45 am
I think your suggestion to shoot in the lowest res. possible is ridiculous. If you want to be concerned with memory then bring more cards. The fact is, any card can fail at any time in any place so bring extra cards and shoot like you plan to use them.
November 11th, 2010 at 6:29 am
I recently did a Timelapse video from the backseat of my convertible. It’s in anaglyph 3D for red/cyan glasses. The shaking from the drive did not effect the video as much as I feared, and my cameras did not fly off in the wind, so I consider it a success. Here’s a link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wattscarr4/5122289282/
November 11th, 2010 at 6:50 am
Hi
I really appreciate your insights and found this article really useful. I like to capture waves with super slow shutter speed after the sun has set. Always on a tripod, aperture stopped down, interesting foreground and AF off. It helps to lock the mirror up and use live view and a remote shutter release,. Here is an example of some smokey seas http://tinyurl.com/25az5lg
Thanks again
Erik
November 11th, 2010 at 6:50 am
Would add one thing, be sure to take enough photos so that in post you can create the video at a reasonable frame rate. Traditional film movies run at 24fps, so every second of your timelapse should include 24 images. Multiply that by the length you’d like your timelapse to last, and you can see how this adds up quickly. So be sure to take enough photos.
November 11th, 2010 at 6:52 am
A TI-83 graphing calculator can be programmed and used as an intervalometer. While you might not have one of these handy in the Himalayas, alot of us have one of these leftover from highschool. I’ve tested it on a Canon XTi and it works great!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-a-TI-Graphing-Calculator-into-an-Intervalomet/
November 11th, 2010 at 7:02 am
Here is a great example of timelapse done well. http://vimeo.com/6686768
It would help to supply tips like how often you have the timer set to take a shot and ultimately what framerate to import the images into for smooth playback.
November 11th, 2010 at 7:15 am
I’ve always loved timelapse. My favorites are car rides around big cities at night. Good timelapse is not for the impatient though. The very best timelapse work takes hours of preparation and execution. The one I’m most proud of is the construction of a wind turbine over 4 days. Shot with a Canon Pro90 and GBTimelapse.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNZqNL4qZxY
November 11th, 2010 at 7:28 am
Shooting time lapses in low resolution IS NOT ridiculous at all. You may not care about memory problems, but you may care about which will be your work flow with 1000 pictures of 15Mb each, pictures that, by the way, you will be displaying at a 30fps rate… Not to talk about uploading a video of 1Gb…
November 11th, 2010 at 7:31 am
I have been practicing time lapse all year! Here’s a link to a flickr set with 5 videos I’ve made: http://www.flickr.com/photos/whitehotphoenix/sets/72157625205222870/
November 11th, 2010 at 7:34 am
I think you need to less time on each image. The result was not very smooth. It you speed up the frequency of image changes then the movie will smooth out. Look at this that I shot in Prague to see what I mean. I also agree about the resolution comment take as large a resolution as you can so you can get the best quality you can.
Prague Sky
Ben
November 11th, 2010 at 7:36 am
@1. If you stop the camera to change the card, your sequence is done for!
November 11th, 2010 at 8:26 am
For music that is well suited for time lapse which is also free for non commercial projects Moby has provided http://mobygratis,com
For some breathtaking time lapse videos check out Ross Ching http://rossching.com/ and for more videos and tips checkout milapse – http://www.youtube.com/milapse
November 11th, 2010 at 8:59 am
i like your timelapse and the location, very nice. I had a go at doing a timelapse not too long ago, it went alright but just had a few glitches here and there, it was a timelapse of millenium bridge and st paul’s cathedral in london showing lots of people walking up and down, very entertaining. I also found that when i was shooting i took around 5 burst shots for every interval so that there was a smoother playback as i was dealing with people.
November 11th, 2010 at 10:19 am
Those skies look so fake. I’m guessing it’s a side-effect of the low res thing.
November 11th, 2010 at 2:50 pm
Wow! Nice beautiful landscape in the Himalayas,
timelapse,this a something new to me.
November 11th, 2010 at 5:33 pm
It was really excellent work! I just love it
November 11th, 2010 at 5:41 pm
Using low resolution is the way to go, a full hd video is compose of individual photo around 2 mb. But 2 more advise, shoot in the smallest raw format you have (only if you have a ligthroom type soft), you will gain more info, then use lightroom to correct the first image and then synch with the other 1000 in seconds). You can use the slideshow panel them to make the time lapse.
What other soffware are you guys using for buildind and color correcting your time lapse ?
Serge
http://Www.sergeramelli.com
November 11th, 2010 at 6:25 pm
My findings are to shoot in medium resolution (6 MP or so) and use that extra headroom to find the perfect crop and create artificial camera movement in the video editor. It’s a cheap trick, bit pretty impressive if the timelapse seems to slide to the side or has a slow zoom. A target of 24fps is also minimum, I’m usually not so thrilled by timelapses below that magic framerate.
Uploading the data to the internet… that’s what the night is for, isn’t it?
Juggling huge files is something you need to get used to if you work with video. I can’t remember a project that had less than 100gig of source material. If I use services that force another round of generation loss like YouTube and Vimeo I always export my project in insane quality, just below the max file size limit.
November 11th, 2010 at 7:12 pm
lol Inception music
November 11th, 2010 at 9:40 pm
You can use the timelapse to shoot something different, not the usual clouds or traffic lights shots…
Example 1
Exmaple 2
both timelapses were shot with a Canon Ppowershot A620.
November 11th, 2010 at 10:02 pm
When shooting clouds create the video at 25fps
November 11th, 2010 at 10:57 pm
I love doing time-lapse videos! I usually set the camera to take a shot automatically every ten seconds, then multiply the expected number of minutes by six to tell the camera how many exposures to take.
Here’s a fun one from our last camping trip– Breaking Camp.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vACh1crAKVA
November 11th, 2010 at 11:11 pm
I’ve never tried this technique but would like to give it a try. Would someone like to recommend a tool for importing & stitching together the individual images to make the movie? Are there freeware applications avaliable?
Thanks!
November 12th, 2010 at 12:48 am
If you shoot full res, you can pan and zoom through the video. Create a video with a custom size to match your full resolution stills (needs a high-bitrate codec), then put that video on a sequence with smaller dimensions (720, 1080, whatever).
Also, the sample is distorted.
November 12th, 2010 at 1:34 am
I have used imagemagick (http://www.imagemagick.org/script/index.php) for creating pan and zoom within timelapse video. This is a command line tool for processing images that are then imported into your NLE/video software. See my Wind Turbine construction video(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNZqNL4qZxY) for an example.
How often you capture a shot is entirely dependent upon the subject matter. Fast moving subjects will need to have a tighter interval of capture or else the resulting movement will seem very disjointed and not smooth at all. However plant growth or landscape can be captured at much longer interval. These intervals and capture settings are what make for such very interesting final output. For most of my previous projects I have captured more than necessary as I can always trim out frames, but you can never go back and add frames.
November 12th, 2010 at 1:54 am
Much enjoyed of course. I have the taking of the shots down pretty much, this helped. But my biggest problem is combining the photo’s in to a movie format. I.e.: software. Hope you cover this in the future – Thanks
November 12th, 2010 at 3:59 am
I’m sorry but the video doesn’t do it for me. The sample is way too contrasty and the second clip seems to suffer from a non-straight horizon. Nice music, but I stopped watching soon after that. So I think it’s reasonable to question the methodology.
It’s not unreasonable to use a lower resolution. The interplay between image-size, image-quality and output (1080×720 being less than 2MPel) is non-trivial: you gain quality by downsampling the sources before cropping to 16:9, but that doesn’t mean the camera’s low-quality mode is acceptable as well. It might be best to shoot around 6-megapixel JPEGs but store them in high or fine quality. If you know how many frames you’re likely to want, then you can choose the largest file-size that’ll fit them all on the card.
Where I will disagree completely is this insistence on using manual mode. That’s plain rubbish. You need to think it through: if your resultant timelapse sequence is going to intersect with changing exposure (say, cloudy day) then do you want the video to flash bright and dark, or try to keep the tones within its dynamic range? If the sequence will intersect with changing whitebalance (e.g. end of the “golden hours” in a landscape when the overall colour-temperature changes from very warm yellow to extremely cold blue), then do you want your video to look warm to start with and get cold, or to average that out according to the camera’s AWB algorithm? These things are *choices*, not a matter of blindly proclaiming “use manual mode”. A factor to consider is that, if you shoot a sunset sequence, the dynamic range over a couple of hours could vary by more than 8 stops: there’s no way you’ll get all that into JPEG, at the same one exposure, with any tonal accuracy; you’d do better to shoot everything in aperture-priority and let the shutter-speed vary, then apply your own gamma curves over time to the final result to give the effect of it getting darker – this way each frame has a wide histogram of data that you’re pushing down into the darker end in post-processing – using auto-exposure *preserves quality until later*.
I wrote my own python scripts to interpolate between frames (even if the source frames aren’t evenly spaced), applying gamma triples by time or image-name, adding masks to simulate ND-filters, etc.
And as a related aside: save money, don’t buy the Lee “Big Stopper” to prolong an exposure. If you’ve got 100+ frames of the same scene for a timelapse, then you can stack them instead. just shoot many fast exposures and superimpose them together afterwards. It works.
November 12th, 2010 at 4:05 am
I love shooting time lapse movies. It puts a different perspective on things we see every day, like the clouds going overhead or the sun setting. Any time I’m outside and I see interesting cloud formations, I never look at them in the same way any more and instead wish I had the time to shoot them for an hour or so.
One tip I’d like to add to the “go manual” advice in the article is to not forget to turn off the vibration reduction feature of your lenses. That one threw me for a while because I couldn’t figure out where I was getting the frame shake on my Nikon D90 when everything, including focus, were all set to manual I was using a sturdy tripod. Once I turned that off, everything works out fine.
November 12th, 2010 at 4:29 am
I don’t usually shoot time lapse at full resolution simply because the camera will perform better and faster at the lower setting, this may not be true will all camera’s but does seem to be the case with my Canon 350D.
Although manual settings are recommended it’s not impossible to achieve positive results in auto mode, it just depends on how much light is available throughout the duration of the photo shoot, a bright environment will prevent the camera from compensating the exposure under darker conditions.
I recently discovered time lapse photography and I think I’m hooked, here is my first time lapse video that I completed a couple months ago.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIzaZZe7RKM
November 12th, 2010 at 5:33 am
Well, here’s my attempts at timelapse of the stars and a driving one. What do you think ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgsB8VfJ-hw&list=QL&playnext=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxKuUEgXx7Y&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxwkV_V38_M
November 12th, 2010 at 8:19 am
I always shoot at a lower resolution, but the highest quality JPEG settings. My Nikon’s lowest resolution setting is still significantly larger than 1080. And while the point about being able to crop and pan through the shot is valid, I tend to do most of my timelapses really wide to catch a landscape or skyscape. But if you’re doing other things, it makes sense.
And yeah, the speed of the video (at least the first one) needs to be sped up. I usually do mine at 24 fps.
November 12th, 2010 at 8:26 am
Thanks for the tutorial. Some good comments and opinions as well. A bit about what you used to produce the video would be nice.
@Tim: Can you share your python script?
November 12th, 2010 at 10:30 am
you have to start somewhere folks…
some of my early attempts, the first being a fake tilt-shift:
http://www.vimeo.com/2582792
http://www.vimeo.com/7507917
camera control via a netbook and Canon’s EOS Utility programme
cheers
November 12th, 2010 at 11:30 am
This is a great summary, and all should thank you for it. Good detail, to the point, and practical. I’d add one thing, which is that when shooting this manually, “drag” the shutter a little bit. If shutter speed is set to stop motion, your time lapse will look kind of fluttery, with people jumping from spot to spot, for example. Experiment with different shutter speeds, starting at say 1/60 and work your way down to 1/20 or so – see how it turns out with that subject.
GuruShots Photo Critique
November 12th, 2010 at 11:52 am
This is my attempt (No music though!) http://vimeo.com/5621209
November 12th, 2010 at 2:04 pm
I am the author of this post and thank you for all comments and critiques. some really good pointers and discussions I see here.
I agree that the video is not the best you’ve seen but since this is my first attempt I am kind of content with it.
I will be trying out more timelapse photography soon and this info will definitely help. All points noted!
November 13th, 2010 at 1:11 pm
Sweet! These look like a lot of fun to make. How much does an intervalometer cost? I’m guessing from the context that you would use one to automatically trigger an exposure, correct?
November 14th, 2010 at 6:31 am
Here is my attempt.
http://micromedia.vaniercollege.qc.ca/~nortonb/2010-11/flash2/lesson_video/vdo_player_full.htm
1 minute intervals, full resolution .jpg images
Using a canon T1i hooked up to a macbook and using the EOS Utility software that came with the camera.
Converted the sequence with Adobe Premiere.
Music was written & produced by my son.
Lots of room for improvement. Thanks for the article and many helpful comments
November 23rd, 2010 at 1:02 am
I would like to know what software people use to create the video portion of it – especially the amateur programs that are available.
December 4th, 2010 at 11:39 am
## ian – I used Windows Movie Maker. I am sure there are many more dedicated softwares available on the net.
December 7th, 2010 at 11:02 am
Just wanted to say thanks for putting up this post as it finally got me off my butt to start shooting TL’s outside of video.
Now, from my experience in both video and photography I will say that ‘getting rid of all the auto’ isn’t necessarily a must. Particularly when doing TL’s of day to night or night to day. You will need AWB in those situations because of the drastic changes in light and what the camera will see as ‘white’. Also, you’ll need to decrease / increase your aperture or exposure time as the light changes and having it set on manual cannot cover for that.
In my initial attempts I found that ‘Shutter Priority’ works best for day to night shots. The main thing is to calculate your interval for the longest exposure time which will come at night. Be advised that if there are man-made lights present in the scene you run the risk of them ‘blooming’ with longer exposure times.
Also one critical thing I haven’t seen anyone mention is; a) you must set your interval with enough time to allow your media card to process the image data. Depending on the class of your card (4 or better) the extra interval time averages around 3 seconds.
As for ‘smoother’ looking video, the prime interval times I’ve seen so far are between 10 and 30 seconds (not counting interval compensation times.) I also use the ‘Small Fine’ setting for the jpeg images and get a a result that’s in the 1.5k range which is above 1080p and just short of 2k! That’s using an 8GB class 4 card. With a 16 or higher, I could no doubt go medium or large fine without too much difficulty but that’s overkill since I’m not burning it out for theatrical release. Not to mention in its raw state the file size for 19 seconds is over 280MB’s!
Now, manual settings in stable lighting conditions particularly after sundown or during a clear or partly cloudy day will produce fine results long as you set up a good exposure. Thing is once you’ve shot it, pull it into your non-linear editing software preferably quicktime pro, Movie Studio Platinum, Final Cut Express or better so you’ll have more control over the final look of the piece. Also, the framerate you choose will affect your video’s look too! 15-24 frames per second will speed up your sequence where as 29.97(NTSC) or higher will slow it down to varying degrees.
There is a correlation between how many frames you’ve shot vs the framerate you choose. If you’re not into the math of calculating all that out, you’re just going to have to experiment with what looks good. Just so you can see I’m not ‘blowing smoke’ here are two tests of day to night. The first was using Aperture Priority with a 15 second interval, the other with Shutter Priority using a 23 second interval. The results are pretty plain. Lastly, don’t forget to put in fresh batteries in both your Remote Timer and your Camera. Nothing worse than not getting anything significant because your rig or your timer ran out of juice!
http://vimeo.com/17446875
http://vimeo.com/17458154
December 8th, 2010 at 1:10 pm
My first attempt taught me a thing or two. Shot with my iPhone from a primitive rig held to my ceiling with clamps and such: http://ow.ly/3lEgP
May 29th, 2012 at 5:55 am
Great post, the velcro idea will definitly be getting put to use. Also useful for long exposures. I’ve made my first attempt at a short timelapse this weekend. If you fancy it you can see the results here:
http://traverseearth.com/the-parrot-in-the-window/
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