6 Winning Ways to Work Wide
Today Joe Decker shares some tips on wide angle photography.
One of the first lens purchases aspiring landscape photographers typically made is a wide or super-wide lens, anything (in full-frame 35mm terms) from 24mm on down, and with good reason, wides offer photographers the ability to capture the sweeping vistas of the natural landscape. But they can also be a challenge to use effectively, it’s all to easy to end up with a wide-angle shot that lacks the power and grandeur we felt when we were shooting. In this article, I’ll explain why that’s so often the case, and provide a few tips for working around those challenges, showing you how to use wide-angle lenses to create dramatic, effective images.

Nordenskjöld Lake, Torres Del Paine National Park, Chile. Image Copyright Joe Decker
1. Get Close!
Because wide-angle lenses take in a bigger angle-of-view than other lenses, using a wide-angle lens at the same distance from your subject will render that subject smaller than it would otherwise. To compensate for this, you’ll have to move closer to your subject. Don’t be bashful about getting close, particularly with super-wides&mash;it’s almost impossible to get “too close” to your subject with a 14mm lens. This emphasis in size that wide-angle lenses give nearby objects means that …
2. It’s All about the Foreground
Contrary to what you might expect, this means that the most important element of your wide-angle landscapes is the foreground. While wide-angle lenses do capture the wider landscape, they also (almost inevitably, because of their wide field-of-view) capture quite a bit of foreground as well, and this foreground is emphasized by the wide-angle perspective. As a result, if your foreground isn’t interesting, your photograph won’t be interesting. This leads us naturally to the Josef Muench idea of the near-far composition, an image which uses a wide-angle lens to not only show a broad vista, but also to show one detail of that landscape in an up-close, intimate way. When you’re photographing wide, be sure to spend some time looking for the most interesting foreground available to combine with your grand vista. (If there isn’t an interesting foreground, you might want to consider using a longer lens to leave out that less interesting foreground.)

Fallen Redwoods, Stout Grove, Jedediah Smith State Park, California. Image Copyright Joe Decker
3. Watch those Verticals!
Wide-angle lenses tend to bend and distort verticals, as you can see in the tree trunks near the top of Fallen Redwoods. Now, you might decide you like that effect, or that you hate it, but it’s important to be aware of it and to make a conscious decision about it. For some images it’s fun to embrace, but more often I find myself having to work to avoid it or correct it later. Avoiding it can be as simple a matter as composing so that there’s only a single obvious vertical (and that that’s vertical), alternatively, using shift movements with a tilt-shift lens can correct some of this distortion in-camera. Post-exposure, Photoshop’s “Lens Distort” filter can also save the day.
4. Leading Lines
Compositionally, lines (such as streams or railway tracks) leading from the bottom corners of an image towards the center often have a particular magic for guiding the viewers eye through the picture, making for strong images, and this is particularly the case for wide-angle images. Hot Stream is a great example of this, the viewers eye tends to wander from the corner back through the image along the stream. As the stream moves back into the image, the stream gets smaller (in terms of inches on the printed page) quickly due the wide perspective. This quick fade (in width) into the distance creates a real sense of depth in the image.

Hot Stream, Húsavík, Iceland. Image Copyright Joe Decker
5. Filter Woes
Shooting wide creates two problems for those of us who use filters. Polarizers are a specific problem, the effect of a polarizer on a blue sky varies across the sky so greatly that wide-angle images including the sky are left horribly unnatural, so leave off the polarizer unless you know there’s no blue sky in your scene. Screw-in filters are a separate problem, it’s all too easy for the filter edges, particularly if you’re stacking more than one filter on the same lens. Filter systems, such Cokin’s P-series filters (with the wide-angle filter holder), can help you avoid these problems if you must use filters.

Dwarf Arctic Birch, C. Hofmann Peninusla, Greenland. Image Copyright Joe Decker
6. Focusing
One of the things I enjoy most about working with wide-angle lenses is the ease of focusing them. As you move to wider and wider focal lengths, the depth-of-field at a particular aperture gets deeper and deeper. This allows you to make great use of the concept of hyperfocal distance, that is, the nearest distance you can focus a particular lens at a particular aperture and get “good focus”. At 24mm, by focusing about six feet out from the camera you’ll capture everything from about three feet to infinity in focus—even at f/11. At 17mm, focusing at the right point at f/11 will get you everything from infinity down to 17 inches away. Find (using a web site like this or any of a number of other sites, software tools or printed tables) and write down the hyperfocal distance for a couple of your widest lenses at a couple of your favorite apertures, and you’ll have an easy way of bringing the entire scene of near-far compositions into critical focus.
Using wide-angle lenses can certainly be tricky, but I love them all the same. Used well they can allow the photographer to create images that immerse us in a world with both small, intimate details and bold, dramatic vistas.
Joe Decker is a professional nature photographer and writer for Photocrati’s Photography Blog He also offers nature photography workshops and coaching around the western United States.


33 Responses to “6 Winning Ways to Work Wide” - Add Yours
July 21st, 2009 at 12:28 am
Excellent advice. #1 is by far the biggest problem I see when people use wide-angles — they often use it to “get everything in” instead of getting up close and personal.
Here’s an additional bit of advice: be really careful when you have people in your photos. Wide angles “pull” the scene so much towards the edges, that they’ll look unnatural. Of course, as always, you can mess around with this effect and get some cool results — but make sure you know what you’re doing! (I deliberately used this effect in Standing Tall for example, for a slightly funny bigfoot effect).
July 21st, 2009 at 12:34 am
I love the article and I love the examples, but I also think it’s important to note how important wide angle for street photography as well.
Wide lens make the observer feel as if he is a participant in the wide street shot he is seeing. Plus, it gives more information about the surroundings of the “main character”
I’m not a big fan of street when using tele lenses – Wide is the best for street as well, imho :)
Here is an example – http://www.ilanbresler.com/2009/04/bona-petit.html
July 21st, 2009 at 1:04 am
Awesome post!
I’m a fairly new photographer lover and mostly like to go to national parks and photograph. I am just curious about the #5 filters tip. I’ve recently been looking into getting a polarizing filter. I thought that they were good for outdoor photos and sky? Tip #5 says they will make the sky look horribly unnatural. What exactly will a polarizing lens do to the sky? I was under the impression that it would saturate colors and cut down on reflections and that they were ideal for shooting outdoors. Now I’m not sure when and where a polarizing filter is even needed. Just when I am filming outdoors and not including the sky in my frame?
Thank you for any clearing up with this. I love this website, it has been a great source of knowledge. I’ve learned so much just from the couple weeks that I have been now subscribing to it!
July 21st, 2009 at 1:11 am
Hmmm, where’s the sky in all those examples? I often am interested in the “big sky” feel and find that it adds to the “grandeur” which you mention, and it also helps a lot with the foreground and verticals issues.
Frankly, on the three shots above where there is a skyline, that skyline feels crowded to me.
July 21st, 2009 at 1:16 am
What a great article! I was really getting disaenchanted with the recent articles in this feed by Helen and was about to give up on it. I am glad there is still a reason to keep getting this! excellent work!
July 21st, 2009 at 2:04 am
Excellent article! I love my wide angle, and it’s great for landscapes… but I do love to use it for close-ups. It really gives a new perspective!
July 21st, 2009 at 2:32 am
Good article, but unless you are using a full frame sensor, good luck with using cokin P size filters, you tend to end up with bad vignetting by capturing the corners of the filter holder, even with only one filter. Rather try the Z size, though they are frightfully expensive.
July 21st, 2009 at 4:16 am
Good article but the explanation of hyperfocal distance in point #6 is lacking a bit. I think I explained it better in my recent newsletter.
http://www.moresatisfyingphotos.com/tips/tip09200.htm
July 21st, 2009 at 4:23 am
I didn’t realize it until Reid pointed it out but he’s right. There’s a noticeable lack of sky in the examples. I would also love to see more information about each example such as camera used, lens used, focal length, aperture, etc.
July 21st, 2009 at 8:59 am
I would have to say to some of you that commented that maybe you expect every article to serve everyones needs! DPS serves a huge community with I would dare say people at many differing skill levels. So intstead of complaining about the lack of info maybe right an aritcle yourself or do a search and make a suggestion to the mods as to what they could include!
July 21st, 2009 at 9:14 am
I enjoyed this article and it gave me stuff to htink aobut. Thanks.
July 21st, 2009 at 9:49 am
Beautifull photos, I especially like the first one. Thanks for the advice I found it very helpfull. Personally I prefer not to have large areas of sky in the photos (unless you are intentionally shooting “big sky country”) so appreciated these photos even more.
I find the problem with polarizers can be that a blue sky can be uneven in colour especially darkening in the top corners. They sometimes can deepen the blue so much it is almost black. I still like using them however as problems can be corrected in computer and colours have so much more bounce. They are also essential for adjusting glare and reflections.
July 21st, 2009 at 10:42 am
Having just purchased a polariser for my 12-60 (24-120) zoom, the reminder about skies is timely for me.
Regarding #6 on hyperfocal distance, there are a number of tools for the iPhone (and I presume other smart phones) that will do this for you.
July 21st, 2009 at 11:21 am
Reid, Zack: I agree with you that the particular examples I chose are pretty sky-empty, in the case of the Greenland image and the Husavik (Hot Stream) image, the sky was not worth the waste of pixels. I’m not “against sky” (laughs), I just like it to be interesting (e.g., http://www.rockslidephoto.com/leaf.php?id=2304&gallery=14, or http://www.rockslidephoto.com/leaf.php?id=2274&gallery=14, just to grab a few.)
Skuz: Depends on how wide you go, but yeah, even with the wide P-holder you can vignette, depending on a number of other variables. Don’t tell anyone, but I’ve been known to hold the filter freehand, which I do *not* recommend.
Jeffery: Yep, I’d agree that a good article to hyperfocal distance specifically could do a better job, in an overview article like this I wanted to primarily point people at the concept, get them started.
Alex: Yeah, I use PhotoCalc for my iPhone, but there are other options (some which have support for non-English languages), and I’m not up on all the competition in that market, even less so for the Pre, etc. That having been said, even with PhotoCalc I like knowing the answer off the top of my head for the commonest settings 16 and 24mm at f/16 and f/22 in all four combinations) , it saves me a few seconds when the light is changing quickly! But I do use PhotoCalc quite a bit in the field.
JohnP: If you can correct the polarization artifacts to your satisfaction, I’m all for it. Haven’t always been as satisfied with my own results, but I’m not religious about the matter, I just do what works for me. :)
Anyway, apologies for any comments/suggestions I missed,, and I really appreciate all the complements and comments. Don’t be afraid to drop me a line if you’ve got questions, and thanks!
July 21st, 2009 at 11:46 am
For Tip #3 above: Check out a plugin for Photoshop called PTLens (http://www.epaperpress.com/ptlens/index.html) which provides distortion correction for a wide range of calibrated lenses. It also comes as a stand-alone utility which can e.g. be used as an external editor in Lightroom, etc.
July 21st, 2009 at 12:06 pm
Tops article. Im picking up a wide angle this week, that will help heaps.
July 21st, 2009 at 1:46 pm
Wonderful article. Gives a new insight to using my wide angle lens. Thanks!
July 21st, 2009 at 4:36 pm
Thanks for your comments Joe. I must admit to correct viginetting in blue skys from using a polariser in wide angle scenes normally means you have to allow for a fairly heavy crop of the edges of a scene. Otherwise just a tweak of levels seems to make the picture jump into life (more so than a photo not taken with a filter). Definitely wouldnt go near a polariser though if planning to stich panoramas with sky together – it always ends up in a mess.
July 21st, 2009 at 5:08 pm
Thanks a lot for the practical advice, especially #2. I never figured out why some of my landscape shots were only mediocre. In trying to get as much of the landscape into the shot as possible, I usually settled for a minimalistic foreground.
July 21st, 2009 at 5:19 pm
Would a ND filter be recommended for wide angle landscape photography?
July 21st, 2009 at 9:06 pm
(After spending a good half hour on Joe’s web site) — your work is amazing. After browsing around on the site and looking at the images included in this article I had an ah ha moment. These images just so a different perspective of the scene and one that I have too often overlooked. I have a new approach to try and I thank you for that.
July 21st, 2009 at 10:52 pm
I also love their use for night photography… ie:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/3738476725/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/3729346661/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/3720869670/
For Canon, I highly recommend the 10-22mm, but if you can afford it, get the 17-35mm L which isnt as wide but takes astounding images
July 22nd, 2009 at 10:30 am
I am still very new to the photography art. I Loved the article I think that Joe did an awesome job of pointing out some beginning steps. for someone like me this article was priceless. Thank you Joe for taking your time to share.
July 22nd, 2009 at 6:03 pm
I’m very new at photography (I have a Nikon D40 – two lens kit)
What would be a good lens to purchase to recreate shots like those in this article?
Thanks.
July 23rd, 2009 at 4:45 am
@Conor: PTLens is another great suggestion for geometric distortion, indeed. Also, if I didn’t mention it, DXO’s products, but PTLens is very inexpensive. If you already have Photoshop, the built-in correction in the filter I mentioned works just fine, but if you don’t, PTLens is a very affordable, high-quality solution.
@JohnP: Indeed, yeah!
@MeiTeng: ND filters, or ND grad filters? I rarely use plain ND filters except for photographing waterfalls, so I wouldn’t recommend using one unless the image you want to create needs it for some other purpose.
BUT…. I do use graduated ND filters now and then. Is that what you were asking about? The ‘gradations” on an wide-angle image end up (on the image) a lot “harder” than they would on a longer lens. That means that if you want a softer transition from filtered to non-filtered in a wide-angle shot with a graduated ND filter, it’s critical to use a “soft” ND grad (I use my Singh-Ray soft 2-stop graduated ND filter a fair bit in that kind of situation.)
@Zack: Thanks for the kind words!
@Robin: I love night photography! Yeah, the 10-22 is a great lens if you’re working with a reduced-frame sensor. I’m on Canon, though, and I think by 17-35L/2.8, that’s a great lens but the updated version (16-35L/2.8 II) is what I’m using now and even sharper. For full-frame, for folks who don’t need f/2.8 the 17-40L/4 is just as sharp and a *lot* cheaper, and is another great zoom option.
@Michael: I don’t think the usual D40 kit lenses go quite as wide as the widest images there, you might want to look at the Nikon 12-24mm f/4G ED-IF AF-S DX, but even with a lens not quite as wide you can do a lot down in the 17-18mm range on your camera, and the same ideas apply. I’m pretty sure that the stream image, for example, was taken at 24mm on a full-frame camera (roughly equivalent to 17mm or so on your camera.)
And everyone: Thanks for all the comments and the many complements!
July 23rd, 2009 at 6:33 pm
Yes ND grad filters. Thanks for explaining,
July 23rd, 2009 at 9:28 pm
very good and practical advice. i have been using a sigma 10-20mm with Eos 400d and most recently with eos 50d. pictures on my website are mostly by Eos 400D. i have been using the ND grad filters and occasionally circular polarizer.
Akif
July 24th, 2009 at 3:24 am
@Joe: Excellent point… I’d like to try out that 17-40, but Im on a D40. Maybe I’ll save up for that as my next, but the 35mm f/1.4 makes me drool so much.
July 24th, 2009 at 11:02 am
Very much useful.I use 14mm.If he could give some insight for effective use of that lense.Thanks.
July 28th, 2009 at 5:35 am
Great article!!! I have the Canon 10-22 and am still learning it. These thoughts help.
August 1st, 2009 at 3:56 am
I am just beginning to shoot with my wide angle lense, so I found this very helpful. I have always loved my macro lens and the tehnique will definitely take a different turn for me with the wide angle lens. Thanks for all the great hints. :-)
August 1st, 2009 at 6:03 am
Excellent tips! I just bought a Canon 70-200mm 2.8L IS lens, but my next purchase is the Canon 16-35mm 2.8L II lens. I’ve been using my Canon 24-70mm 2.8L lens coupled with a B&W circular polarizer and I have been getting great landscape pics with them. The colors are very rich and vibrant, but you must be careful when the lens is wide open…vignetting is definitely a problem, but nothing that Photoshop can’t handle. Now I can’t wait to get the 16-35mm so I can put some of your tips to good use…especially tip #2!
Thanks and keep the tips coming,
kauaikid
August 3rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm
Great article!! I bought a Tamron 10-24mm last may and I’m really happy with it.. I’d always loved wide-angle pictures, anyway I was a bit doubtful about buying such a lens.. definitely it’s been a good choice to get it!
I think another good advice might be: look at the sky! Using a wide-angle can give to cloudy skies a breath-taking dramatic effect… such as on the picture below:
http://tinyurl.com/knylgo
http://tinyurl.com/m2stow
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