10 Reasons to Turn off Your Autofocus
A Guest Post by Alistair Scott.
When I started using a camera autofocus was something out of science fiction. I mean … it would never work in real life, would it? Apart from anything else, how could it know what you wanted to focus on?

Now fiction has become fact, and pretty well every camera has AF as standard. It works, and works well. But it doesn’t always work perfectly. It can pick up the wrong thing or fail to find anything to focus on, causing the lens to ‘hunt’ back and forth. Sometimes it won’t even let you fire the shutter.
So, here are ten situations when it’s worth turning your autofocus off and going back to the ‘good old days’ of manual focusing:
1. When there’s not enough light
In low light, contrast is also low, and AF relies on light and contrast to latch on to things. Your camera may have an AF assist lamp built in. But, even if you have it switched on, it won’t work in situations like in the shot above.
Though the image looks bright enough, in reality there was little light, and it required a 30-second exposure.
2. When there’s not enough contrast
If your AF metering spot is on something like a plain-coloured wall the camera will find it impossible to focus, no matter how bright the light, and the lens will ‘hunt’. You can re-frame your shot temporarily so the spot is on something with detail and press the shutter half down to activate the AF. Then keep the shutter button half-pressed to lock the focus, and go back to your original composition. Or focus by hand.
3. Shooting wildlife
Most wild animals have excellent hearing and, no matter how good your autofocus, it will make a noise. Even the slightest whirr is likely to spook wildlife. Switch it off if you want those great, natural wildlife shots.
4. With landscapes
When shooting landscapes you usually want things in focus from the foreground to distant mountains. This means closing down the aperture to increase depth of field and focusing about a third of the way into the scene (at a point called the ‘hyperfocal distance’ where everything from quite close to infinity is sharp). Switch off the AF. If you leave it on, when you press the shutter it will re-focus … probably on those far-off mountains.
5. If you’re doing HDR
High Dynamic Range photography involves taking several shots of the same scene, all exactly the same except for exposure, then blending them when you’re back at the computer. It’s important to have identical focus in each shot to ensure success. With AF on, it may choose a slightly different focus point for each shot.
6. Fast action
When you’re photographing a fast-moving subject, your AF will have its work cut out to keep up with the changing distances. Most times it fails. At this jump, in a radio-controlled buggy competition, I first started shooting in burst mode, with the AF switched on. This was the sort of thing I kept getting.



It wasn’t until I switched the AF (and burst mode) off and pre-focused on a spot where most of the buggies landed that I started to get decent shots.

7. Shooting through glass
Taking photographs through glass is generally not a good idea. Avoid it if you can. But sometimes it’s unavoidable, e.g. if you’re in a plane, or photographing fish in an aquarium. The trouble is, the AF may home in on reflections, or marks on the glass. So switch it off.
8. With portraits
The golden rule of portraiture is to focus on your subject’s eyes. What’s more, you often use a wide aperture to throw the background out of focus. But if your autofocus picks up your subject’s eyebrows or the tip of the nose then, because you’ve got such a narrow depth of field, the eyes will be blurred.
9. Macro
With macro photography autofocus has a hard time. The depth of field is so tiny that the camera has no idea what you want to focus on and the lens is likely to hunt wildly. You definitely must take control.
10. Composition with the ‘Rule of Thirds’
Many cameras have the autofocus spot fixed in the middle of the viewfinder. This means that if you’re composing with your subject at one of the classical ‘thirds’ positions it is likely to be out of focus.

In this image a centralised autofocus would not pick up the boat and, on top of that, it would have difficulty latching to the smooth water of the lake.
So … autofocus is brilliant but it’s not infallible. A good photographer knows when to take control of the camera to get great shots in challenging situations
Alistair Scott is an award-winning freelance photographer and writer who has travelled the world widely. He lived for 20 years in Africa, but is now based in Switzerland. His latest book is ‘The LowDown Guide to Family Photography’, which can be seen at www.alscotts.com/fampage




80 Responses to “10 Reasons to Turn off Your Autofocus” - Add Yours
December 19th, 2009 at 12:08 am
Too bad the viewfinder of my Digital Rebel is way too small to properly focus manually.
December 19th, 2009 at 12:22 am
11. Shooting with with lenses without internal focus motor (which use the camera’s external focus screw motor)
Usually these lenses (like Nikkor’s AF 50mm) are so slow, and noisy, to focus that it can be frustrating. Too often the best thing to do is turn off Auto Focus and do it manually
December 19th, 2009 at 12:30 am
12. when you buy a cheap/old manual focus lens. Like a 200us$ samyang 85mm 1.4 lens.. great tool for the money of you can overcome the lack of AF
A few of the above points could be overcome using another focus point than the center one.
December 19th, 2009 at 12:37 am
How true. i’ve had so many situations when the auto focus has caused me to miss shots. When I first started shooting with my new toy (a canon rebel xsi). I thought I’d use the auto focus, only to have it give me fits as it and i disagreaded on what i wanted to focus on. so these days i’ve reverted back to doing it my self.
Honestly between allways shooting in manual and focusing my self, I have to say the only real advantages to todays digital cameras is the monitor, image stabilization, and the abillity to dispose of shots i don’t like, With out having to spend tons on developing.
December 19th, 2009 at 12:37 am
I completely agree. Autofocus has always been something of a gimmick to me. It never worked well, is always noisy, and never quite focused on what I wanted it to focus on, but everyone used it. Just this year I started to turn on my autofocus again- and I’m not that happy with it.
Just yesterday I was shooting a series of closeup nudes (body shapes and forms not the other stuff) and I had the autofocus turned on. Just hearing that motor buzz back and forth, back and forth was overwhelming- trying to focus on skin with little definition. Annoying to say the least. I had to focus on skin edges, or a feature on the skin (somewhere, anything, a bellybutton) and then reposition the frame to where I wanted it. The noise of the autofocus was distracting for both myself and my model, because it was such an annoyance- I had to turn it off.
I feel like an old timer when it comes to photography because I shoot everything in manual (focus, exposure, flash). I grew up using manual camera’s. I believe we are smarter than our camera’s. Honestly, I have to do it because all of these new camera consumer features just don’t provide a replacement for the photographers creativity. But I keep trying them- and switching back. Maybe one day, but not yet.
December 19th, 2009 at 12:46 am
Nice post im glad i turn it off in the most of cases you talk.
Regards.
December 19th, 2009 at 12:48 am
I love to photograph with old prime lenses that I bought cheaply from pawn shops or Ebay. The connector to my Canon was cheap too. Those lenses only have manual focus and they force me to carefully plan my shots. I believe “time” and “patience” are the most overlooked essential factor for creating great images and all the masters of photography had time, especially when they were shooting with a large format camera.
December 19th, 2009 at 12:51 am
Very nice article — thanks! I especially liked your examples for point #6. There’s nothing obviously wrong with the first three photos — until you see the superior fourth one.
If there’s one point of contention I’d make, it’s with point #10. Unless you’re shooting with a tripod, it seems to me that it would be easier to autofocus (and then lock focus) on your subject (i.e. the rowboat) and then recompose your shot. (Giving this a little more thought, I guess it depends on whether you find it easier to focus manually or recompose with a locked focus — for me it’s usually the latter.)
December 19th, 2009 at 12:57 am
The focus switch on my Pentax K-m is stuck in the “manual” position, yet the lens autofocuses anyway and it will not allow me to manually focus it. Has anybody else ever had this problem or have any idea how to fix it? (without sending it out for repair)
A big majority of my work is macro or night photography and I have to rely on manual focus. Since it is my only camera and I can’t afford to buy a new one, I’m kinda left at a standstill right now.
December 19th, 2009 at 12:58 am
Reading this article makes me think you all have horrible autofocusing systems :|
The majority of the points here can be avoided using the half-press technique, or simply choosing a different focusing method (single point, all points, different point, continuous AF, …).
December 19th, 2009 at 12:58 am
As a guy who is relatively new to DSLR photography, this is great advice. I’ll remember it this holiday season!
December 19th, 2009 at 1:04 am
All good points, but there is also a third option available to many with DSLRs that wasn’t mentioned: set it so that the autofocus button is separate from the shutter button. This allows one to focus on a given point, then leave the focal distance fixed while you recompose the shot. The shutter button will not force it to refocus. I prefer this in situations like #4, 6, 8 and 10 above because it is much quicker and easier than changing back and forth between autofocus and manual.
December 19th, 2009 at 1:22 am
I would like to add another one: astronomy. There is no way I would have been able to take this shot of the moon without my live view zoom manual focus (especially because I took it at 300mm KB equivalent).
http://www.focx.de/2009/10/04/full-moon-almost/
And of course there is macro. Not only can’t you move your camera to help the AF, in macro shots the area in focus is so small it’s essential to move it around by hand:
http://www.focx.de/2009/08/04/leaf-trap-ant-triptych/
The point about manual lenses is also great, Friedhelm!
December 19th, 2009 at 1:30 am
@Danferno
I don’t beleive it’s a case of good/bad autofocus systems, I think it’s about all autofocus systems to date. I’ve tried the Nikon D3 (yes with it’s astronomical price) and I would still only shoot it manually as I do with almost all of my photography. Autofocus is just not there yet- because of the issues that this post discusses. The new internal lens motors are cutting down on the noise and improving focussing speed, but if the lens can’t find the focal point- you just hear it ‘whir’ back and forth.
However, If I was shooting sports I would have the autofocus turned on and snap those shots off like a machine gun- hoping something in the series turned out. But this does go back to the post where Alistair was shooting a remote controlled car- action coming at you is best to shoot in manual by focussing on the action point and capturing the image as it passed.
I’ve read a few good articles regarding skadeboard and closeup action photography- mostly performed the same way (focus on a point and wait).
December 19th, 2009 at 1:35 am
I turn off the auto focus frequently, especially when the photo is busy, especially when shooting birds in trees.
December 19th, 2009 at 2:46 am
You know, I kind of agree, but as reznor said, I can’t really get a good idea of what the focus is like through my 1×1 inch (if that??) viewfinder. I have a Canon XSI (which I love) and it has live view (which I never use), and have tried to manually focus using that, but that’s no good either!
I see the merits of manually focusing, but just can’t figure out how to do it accurately!
December 19th, 2009 at 2:48 am
Shooting in a crowd, or anytime there’s action in the foreground and your subject is in the background, sometimes requires manual focus too. For this shot, for example, I was in a crowd and you can see all the hands in the air… autofocus would pick one or the other, and since everything is moving it was wildly inconsistent. Even recomposing wasn’t great because the subject moved in the time it took.
But I agree that most DSLRs are just not ideal for manual focus. I’d say live view is a necessity. Our old manual lenses usually went with manual bodies that had some kind of focus assist, like the split prism on my Pentax MG.
December 19th, 2009 at 3:13 am
Nice article and examples, that’s why I live in manual mode and spot focus 95% of the time. It’s really the only way I’ve found way to get the shot I see, not what the camera sees.
December 19th, 2009 at 3:49 am
Very good points to keep in mind.
The type of autofocus also matters: If you’re shooting action (as in No. 6), try using AI Servo with only the center focus point selected (that’s for Canon; I believe the Nikon version is called “continuous servo AF”). With AI Servo, keeping the shutter pressed halfway will enable the the focus to continue tracking a moving object/person up until the moment the shutter is released. (Standard AF will lock the focus when keying the shutter; the delay between that and actually releasing the shutter often allows the object/person to move out of focus range). Older, cheaper lenses often won’t focus fast enough to do this, but L series lenses and other USM lenses focus very quickly and quietly. I shoot a lot of sports, and this method gives me more keepers than trying to focus manually.
December 19th, 2009 at 4:10 am
I don’t have a DSLR, and I find the AF using “spot” setting to be a lot faster than manual focus. Unless of course it’s a night shot or some fast action going.
Except from the noise of the hunting lens, and the inability to lock at unfavourable conditions, do you think MF still overrules AF (at spot focusing)?
December 19th, 2009 at 5:18 am
I agree with Jeff above….manual focus for fast moving objects is tough, especially if you cannot predict where the action will be. Set your camera to its continuous focusing mode and then track the subject as it moves and fire away when it performs the action you want to photograph. This is the technique I use to photography equestrian jumping.
I find using a tripod makes manual focus much more pleasurable as well.
December 19th, 2009 at 6:03 am
Sorry, I don’t get no.10. Try focus locking and reframing.
December 19th, 2009 at 6:40 am
The two main issues I have:
2: I usually find that, if there isn’t enough light for the autofocus to work (i.e. it starts hunting), there isn’t enough light to manually focus either
10: this is the weakest reason in the entire article: If you have a camera that you can turn off autofocus, then you definitely have one that can be set to lock the focus once it finds it’s point, so you can reframe.
Like anything else, if someone doesn’t understand autofocus then they won’t be able to use it effectively, and so understanding is a better path than just turning it away completely (then, of course, feel free to ignore what you understand).
December 19th, 2009 at 9:41 am
“This means closing down the aperture to increase depth of field and focusing about a third of the way into the scene (at a point called the ‘hyperfocal distance’ where everything from quite close to infinity is sharp).”
You would be better off to consult a DOF scale or calculator. The anecdote about DOF extending 1/3rd in front and 2/3rds in back of the focus point is a myth. For instance the hyperfocal distance for a 17mm lens on APS-C format camera is about 4.5′.
December 19th, 2009 at 9:42 am
Whoops! at f/11
December 19th, 2009 at 12:49 pm
I loved the 10 reasons to turn off AF! It was like a loving swat on the hat! Maybe my photography problems aren’t just my Canon G10 but it operator??
December 19th, 2009 at 2:53 pm
# 5 If You’re Doing HDR: “With AF on, it may choose a slightly different focus point for each shot.” Actually, you can overcome the camera choosing “a slight different focus point for each shot” by using AF initially, then change to MF before taking any shots to make sure that the point of focus doesn’t change.
# 6 Fast Action: If you have time, you can use DOF or landscape mode to choose the parameters of what’s in focus before hand, then change to MF and shoot away.
December 19th, 2009 at 3:37 pm
Let me start off by saying I’m a complete novice and have just recently picked up photography as a hobby. I bought the D5000 and was quite shocked at how well it focuses. Now, maybe my photos are simple and boring, or maybe the D5000 makes big improvements (doubtful), but I am able to move the focus to 11 points, which is pretty good. For macros (and I believe other modes as well) I can move a box around in LV, which can be pretty useful. Obviously, some (most?) of these make perfect sense to me.
Somehow, I doubt I’m right, being a virgin amongst the pros, but would appreciate if someone could shine some light on this for me.
December 19th, 2009 at 5:21 pm
Great article.. thanks for that.
want to add one more
#11 (or # 13 :D) Shooting Panorama i have spoiled lot of my panos with auto focus and then started using manual focus when i want to click 10 photos to stitch into one!!
for example
or
(this one is pano in almost complete darkness… so you got two reasons for manual focus!!
December 19th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yogendra174/4190175304/
&
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yogendra174/4064647043/
December 19th, 2009 at 8:12 pm
This is a great article. As a beginner, I’ve learned a lot from this post and all the comments above. Thanks for sharing.
December 19th, 2009 at 9:06 pm
I find that I am having the same problems as my camera autofocus when dealing with low light.
I miss the system film camera had, of having to align the center spot in the view finder.
But it’s true that switching to manual focus enable a better control of the composition.
P.S. if I am not mistaken, the first picture of this article was taken in geneva ?
December 19th, 2009 at 9:41 pm
Good reading this is what i need, our world is a versatile place.Need to be ready
December 19th, 2009 at 9:44 pm
Good reading, our world of Photography is versatile, so get ready to face the challenge
December 19th, 2009 at 11:24 pm
manual focus ? i have a nikon d40 and two lenses that i have to use in manual focus all the time, a real pain in the ass. i have a shitload of out of focus pictures.
December 20th, 2009 at 1:11 am
I’ve never had a problem with autofocus, especially on L series lenses. I have my camera set to easily switch metering modes depending on what I’m shooting. The only time I do turn it off is for Macro.
December 20th, 2009 at 1:54 am
I shoot about 50% of the time on MF…it takes some getting used to. I’ve taken my share of poorly focused shots but I like having the control especially on my D50 which only has 5 different auto-focus spots.
December 20th, 2009 at 2:00 am
I found this article very helpful…
very well explained reasons for ..not using AF
Cheers
December 20th, 2009 at 3:03 am
#14
Having a Nikon D40x which can’t autofocus, neither with my 50mm nor with the macro… -.-
I LIKE manual focus, but not always.
December 20th, 2009 at 4:18 am
I agree with most of the reasons given, and have a solution that I believe gives the best of both worlds (except in case #6). Using Canon cameras I set the camera to focus on the * (20D) or “Focus start” (5DII) button rather than the shutter release. This prevents the inadvertent focus problems listed above. The problem with this method is that it’s too slow to follow action. In that case, I use AI Servo and one focus point. I used that in my pictures of the Santa Barbara Marathon recently and had a high percentage of keepers.
I’m adding a shot from the Marathon to demonstrate.
December 20th, 2009 at 6:38 am
Great article…I really enjoyed it. Thank you.
December 20th, 2009 at 1:16 pm
I shoot in manual most of the time. I guess it is the old school in me, I feel as though I have more control. Great article.
December 20th, 2009 at 7:00 pm
I have trouble with manual focus. Even though things look like they will be in focus in the viewfinder, the image comes out blurry. I do not know if it is because the image is so small or what.
December 20th, 2009 at 9:06 pm
Great tip! I totally agree with you, I used auto focus the early days I own my DSLR, then I switched it off cause in most of the situations I shooted (and shot) it was unuseful… Still today I use it in very very few situations, I’m not skilled enought to always get great results and subjects on focus, but at least it’s my own mistake and it lets me improve… when using autofocus I only lost shots without understanding why!
Anyway, I think autofocus is a kind of magic in the modern photography world, just don’t well-working enought yet! The machine has not overtaked man’s ability yet :)
December 21st, 2009 at 1:04 am
I just upgraded to a Kodak EasyShare Z915. It takes much better pictures and offers more features than my EasyShare C513. However, when it comes to the Auto Focus I only have the option of disabling the continuous use of it. I don’t think there’s any way of disabling it totally.
December 21st, 2009 at 7:08 pm
Good article. I am also a manual fan but the viewfinder’s setting is absolutely important for the photographer to successfully focus on subject. If you make amateur mistakes like I do, then you may end up with horrible results :)
December 22nd, 2009 at 12:13 am
I use manual focus now and then when I have to, for some of the reasons mentioned in the article (low light hunting, and things like that)…. but I generally find that the autofocus does a much faster job then I can do, especially with fast moving objects! There are times when you cant just camp and wait for something to come through your lens at the exact spot you set your manual focus for!
One of the biggest problems for me in manual focus is that I HOPE your diopter on your viewfinder is setup correctly. Because if it is not, then the focus will look perfect in the viewfinder to your eye.. but will be all blurry in the actual shot!
Also.. I really helps to have a high quality camera with a large viewfinder here. Consumer and even prosumer cameras just dont have a big enough viewfinder to accurately use manual focus in my opinion.
True there are some times when manual is a must, but with high quality lenses and cameras the autofocus works Very Very well these days.
Just one more note……. in high quality lenses focus can be adjusted manually even when on Auto anyway, so if you have a problem, just use the autofocus to get close, and manualy adjust the small amount you may need before fully press the trigger. Best of both worlds!
December 22nd, 2009 at 12:09 pm
Modern pro/semi-pro cameras such as the Nikon D300/D700, Canon 5D and upwards, there’s rarely an occasion that you would need to turn autofocus off. They focus faster and more accurately than you’ll ever do using your own eye.
December 24th, 2009 at 3:26 am
I am very much agreed with your suggestions. I used them very often. One problem is that the lenses nowadays, unlike the 35mm film camera, do not have the split circle at the centre of the lenses. This make the photographers wonder they have the subjects focus, especially at low light situation. I wonder any of you out there having this problem. Please share how to overcome it.
December 24th, 2009 at 3:55 am
brilliant article … especially regarding the lack of focus on the subjects eyes when shooting portraits.
December 24th, 2009 at 3:58 am
Great writing. Really enjoyed it.
Just one question: while focusing manually, how can I be sure I am focusing right where I intend to..? I mean, the viewfinder is so small, isn’t it rather difficult to know that with absolute certainty..? As mentioned in the article, the difference between focusing on the eye vs. the eyebrows can make or break the image.
December 24th, 2009 at 4:10 am
Using a D700 I’ve found just a few instances where the autofocus is frustratingly inadequate. It is mostly in really low light and low-contrast subjects. The other issues are usually managed on how you have the AF system setup. The biggest issue is defining which spot you want to focus on and blam! it focuses. Well, except in those instances of low light and/or low contrast.
I should note that my previous cameras were definitely AF-Off more than on. I’m really liking this D700.
December 24th, 2009 at 4:21 am
Hyperfocal distance – It used to be that distance scales and aperture markings on lenses allowed you to set hyperfocal fairly accurately. Now it’s a guessing game, plus you need an external reference chart. Seems to me that the camera could compute the hyperfocal distance for the current aperture, then focus the lens at that distance. It’s all mathematics, and the cameras have very powerful computers built-in. Why can’t the camera designers add this feature?
December 24th, 2009 at 4:23 am
amazing article , i always shoot fast moving things so i need really good focus and i just discovered the amazing abilities of Manual focus , thanks =)
December 24th, 2009 at 4:57 am
My old Minolta SRT had a shattered image spot in the center of the veiwfinder to make focusing easier. The image within that circle looked slightly broken up until it was in focus.I had a rangefinder camera that used a split image, with the two halves coming together when the image was in focus. My Minolta 5D digital camera has neither a broken image nor a split image spot to make manual focusing easier, and as a result I get an unacceptable number of out-of-focus pictures when I try to focus manually.
Dave Gordon
December 24th, 2009 at 5:21 am
I grew up with a Pentax P3n… manual EVERYTHING, I even wound the film. When I finally got my Rebel XTi, I was so glad for auto that I haven’t switched it off for 4 years! Thanks for the creative inspiration, though. I leave all my camera settings on manual, so I might as well focus manually more often, too! I’m gonna get back to my roots!
to my roots!
December 24th, 2009 at 5:29 am
The problem for me is that most lenses for DSLR cameras do not have a focusing reticle. While macro photographs of a rose with dew, I was trapped in a circle of focus, shoot, view picture, zoom in to the dew drops to see if they were in focus, adjust the focus, shoot, view… It took fifteen minutes to get an acceptable image. The small viewfinder is really not a problem, as my 35mm slr film camera had a viewfinder about the same size, but all of the lenses that I had for it had a focusing reticle so I could assess the focus.
December 24th, 2009 at 6:39 am
Great Article – Thanks.
I have a D40 and 3 manual focus lens for it (due to its absence of a focusing motor) and find the Tokina wide angle easy to use in manual mode . Not so the other 2 lens especially the 50mm f1.8, which has to narrow a band of movement to make focussing easy, as a consequence I use the newer but inferior 35mm f1.8 lens simply because it is DX!
I often use spot metering and focus on the D40 and have been “told off” by a camera technician for it……he thinks default settings work best in most instances!!!! Obviously I disagree esp. with the D40…
Manual focussing has another very big plus for me it slows me down and I take better pictures when I have time to think about what I am doing….as long as its inanimate or very patient of course! …and my eyes are wide open to see that silly little green dot in the view finder…but I suppose it beats the ground glass screen of my first film SLR and I can’t say the slit screen devices were that much better to use either…..on the whole I think auto everything is also just great…especially when you are in a hurry!
Again great article and great mail out – so much to read and learn…..
Happy Xmas
December 24th, 2009 at 7:02 am
Good points, but I will echo the sentiments of Terry. If you take the auto focus off of the shutter button, you remove many of the problems. I have had my Canons focusing using the * button for years and I rarely turn off auto focus except for low light. Even fast action I generally will use AIServo and the * button.
December 24th, 2009 at 7:20 am
I understand peoples’ positions about using manual focus, but I never really trust that my eyesight is doing a good job focusing properly inside a tiny viewfinder. Anyone else?
December 24th, 2009 at 9:08 am
Only half the points made are relevant. the others show a lack of understanding of the various focusing modes and settings that are available on most DSLR’s. Infact most DSLR manuals have quite detailed explanations on how and when to use the different focusing modes and settings.
December 24th, 2009 at 12:14 pm
A few days before I read this article I realized how much more accurate manual focussing is compared to AF. You can actually see what is sharp and what isn’t. I realized AF was focussing on the wrong thing (how does the camera know what my subject is?) I checked some of my old 35 mm slides taken with manual focus and – guess what – they were all tack sharp. So now it’s back to manual focus for me and sharpness where I want it and not what my camera wants.
December 24th, 2009 at 1:23 pm
nice article, i agree if you have time to set up your shot, portraits, landscapes, things that are not moving. awesome shot of the rc car. i shoot alot of drag racing with my 50mm 1.8, i use center focus, and i watch the vehicle in my view finder, and i just use ai focus, with the burst mode. during the day so i get the motion blur, i use tv mode or shutter priority. and at night i just bump up the iso and use manual priority. i tried what you are doing to pick a spot, but then i would miss wheelies and crashes. anyway, very nice article, thank you for sharing! and merry Christmas to everyone! john
December 24th, 2009 at 1:28 pm
Well here is the Action SHOTS I snapped off on the Sprint Cars at Cowtown Tx. I was Not locked on this pack of cars when I saw it start to happen I just pointed the Nikon D-40 with the Tamron 2.8 70-200 . The sprinter going over the top came to rest I walked out and the driver asked me to check his shocks , they were still hooked up! They pushed him off and he finished the race. The 10 Car Sammy Swindell started last and won the heat race only to be docked a lap cause the track was closed and his crew came out to the car! I have tried to pre focus in manual only to get blur , I pre focus on the track in auto hold it on half wait for the races to come around I follow the racer after I click !
http://luvracinphotos.smugmug.com/Goose/Cowtown-Tx-Pits-Heats-Action/9965011_BLKVN/6
I do miss some shots but find that sometimes it gets me some great shots ! I will Work on using the Manual. I use it on the MOON ! on the tripod !
Merry Christmas and a Wild New Year
December 24th, 2009 at 6:29 pm
#6 – the obvious difference between the first 3 takes and the last one is the shorter DOF on the last one. You did not only switched to MF, but you also opened the iris and shorten the exposure time. So, you shorten the DOF and also got the sand grain frozen in the pic. The framing also helps with the overall quality of the pic :)
And I have one case when MF is a pain in the …: when you have a pocket camera where MF is done by means of +/- buttons and the like. I have such a camera and I prefer the half press and re frame method.. :)
Otherwise, good article. Thanks!
December 25th, 2009 at 3:18 am
I’m lazy at times and tend to “overlook” several of the suggestions. Yea I know about them but…
(Thanks for the kick-in-the-pants!)
December 26th, 2009 at 1:03 am
Well I have a Nikon D40 and 4 lenses, only the 50mm 1.8 is manual focus, to all those people that say bad things about the D40, mine does auto focus in absolute darkness, I’ve tried it in a room and in a hall, as for outside, there is no such dark night as the pitch black room, so yeah it does auto focus a night. Of course there are situations when I turn off the auto focus, but when it’s something important I do rely on the auto focus. As for framing, there is always half press/re frame, Auto Focus Lock button and stuff like that. The Macro is another thing, I do own a fairly good Macro lens, the Tamron 90mm Macro 1:1, and it has a motor for D40, but I shoot on manual focus, there some things that you can’t shoot in auto focus, not to mention that the Tamron 90mm auto focus is so sensible that when the butterfly just winks at me, LOL, and the auto focus starts to hunt back and forth :))) that’s why people have made the On/Off switches for the auto focus, because you can either use it, or turn it off if you like to shoot manual :)
December 26th, 2009 at 3:03 am
Happy christmas to all. I just read your article on using manual focus, something i never do. Its funny i should read this article today as ive been out photographing in low light and have not been able to get the desired result, and would never have dreamt of using manual focus, im a relatively new to all this photography stuff but i do love it, and every opportunity i see a good photo im out with my camera and i might have shot the same spot several times but every picture looks so much different to the last due to the conditions. After reading about the manual focus i reckon i could have achieved my desired results last night if i had used it but from now on im going to try it out.
December 26th, 2009 at 11:43 am
this is a fabulous article. i grew up with 35 mm and was used to manual focusing. i guess with digital, i got a little lazy. i just switched my camera to manual focus and will try this focusing instead. i just took a few test shots and got great result. didn’t have to worry about the sensor finding a focusing point. i focused myself and click. less frustration.
thanks.
i’m off to do some more manual shooting.
December 27th, 2009 at 10:40 am
One more reason: when using Tilt-shift lenses. Of course they do not even have AF, but that would be useless anyway.
I must say that I do sometimes switch off my AF for some of the reasons above, but not always. For the buggy you can also lock focus on the place you want it to land? Also though some of the reasons by commenters are valid in my perspective, some others look a bit ‘elite’, similar to the single-speed-no-brake-cyclists ;-)
I love my AF and it has saved me many times. I would have lost many images on http://ExposedPlanet.com (especially all the portraits, less the landscapes of course) if I needed to spend any second more due to MF.
Keep shooting, Harry
December 29th, 2009 at 1:18 am
Autofocus is a tool. So is manual focus. Sometimes you need a flat screwdriver and sometimes you need a phillips or square drive. Just because it’s advantageous to shoot something in manual focus occasionally doesn’t mean you have to turn it off all the time. It’s an extra tool in your gadget bag… play with it, work with it, get used to it, and it’ll always be there when you need it.
December 29th, 2009 at 4:43 am
I find I rarely us straight auto focus, but I also rarely manually focus . What I usually do is use a manual focus mode that allows me to point and press a button to pre-focus at the distance I want. It is similar to pressing the shutter half way down and the re-framing the shot, but it also works well when using a tripod
December 29th, 2009 at 9:55 am
oh, I’m so mad and upset…
after a morning in the dark…to get some good shots of the Olympic torch, now I see why my pictures are garbage…
If I read this email yesterday, for sure the quality would be much better. I have the camera, but is missing the knowledge…
thanks to all who added so many good and very good info for shooting action in the low light. I have canon xsi with 17-55 f2.8 for a year and I’m doing pretty good (I’m pleased with the output) in a good light, but is more to learn in order to get good results
always would be a next time, but today was the one lifetime opportunity, and that’s part of the photography to catch the moment what would never repeat again…
any negative positive feedback are welcome, that what would make me improve.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33385365@N08/
December 30th, 2009 at 12:36 am
Like others who’ve already posted, I would prefer to focus manually at times, but the lack of a prism to help me find that sharp focus makes it too hit and miss. Is it possible to buy split prism screens for Nikon DSLR’s?
December 31st, 2009 at 12:50 pm
One issue, most DSLR lenses have no guide markings on them to show the distance you are focussing on, something that causes me no end of trouble trying to take good night sky photographs. I want to focus on infinity, but the AF cannot pick up and focus on stars… the moon maybe, if it’s out.
Also, as others have said, most DSLR viewfinders have no focussing screen to help with manual focussing.
I guess the manufacturers have decided in todays world of expecting everything to be done automatically there is no point in manual focus even being a realistic option.
January 3rd, 2010 at 10:15 pm
It is a very helpful article especially for those who rely heavily on the af of the camera. However manual focusing for most of novice photographers like me is a difficult thing to do all the time. A good thing in today’s slrs is the selective af points which normally come in choice of 3 , 9 , 11 and more af points depending upon the apparatus purchased. Moreover it is true that almost all of the cameras are preset at the center of the frame for af, but then we always can reframe the image after taking the focus lock . One suggestion or another , at the end of the day , af on or off ,remember – You are as good a photographer as your pictures are……….
January 5th, 2010 at 5:36 pm
It’s important to mention that today’s DSLRs don’t have standard focusing screens that allow for accurate manual focusing at apertures wider than 3.2 as they project more of the aerial image to increase brightness in the viewfinder. If you’re going to be manually focusing your camera at wider apertures, it is imperative that you replace the screen in your camera with a precision focusing screen. The image is likely to be darker, but the picture will be much sharper and will allow for accurate focusing at wider apertures.
January 28th, 2010 at 8:59 am
If you want to use auto focus in low light a simple trick is to shine a small led torch onto your subject just as you focus. Once the camera has focussed, keep the button half pressed to lock the focus, switch the torch off then take the shot!
April 8th, 2010 at 5:15 pm
For everybody that’s looking for the little split circle to focus your DSLR with, it’s part of your camera’s focusing screen. Most DSLRs these days don’t have a split image on their focusing screen (no need with autofocus, right?), but you can purchase aftermarket screens for many cameras. Google “DSLR focusing screen” or “split focus screen” or “canon XSI split focusing screen” in my case. “katzeye” or “haoda” are a couple of brand/supplier keywords.
June 2nd, 2010 at 5:57 pm
I realised 3 days ago that AF is not good at all if you want to focus your way and I thought I’m just crazy, but it seems that I have founded here all the reasons to turn it off.
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