Tips for Photographing a Lunar Eclipse


_MG_5566-MWhile some obscure astronomical events get over-hyped, a total lunar eclipse is always a crowd-pleaser. It is easy to observe and photograph, even among the bright lights of the big cities.

Note: This article was written for a previous eclipse but is still relevant for the next one too!

A lunar eclipse occurs when the alignment of the moon’s orbit is just right, taking it inside Earth’s shadow at the time of full moon, when the moon is opposite the sun. The lengths of an eclipse can vary from event to event (as can the brightness and colour of the eclipse) depending if it’s a full eclipse or not


Visit for eclipse event times in your part of the world. Change your location on the right hand side if the automatic selection is incorrect.

Photographing a Lunar Eclipse

There are two main approaches to photographing a lunar eclipse using just a DSLR and a tripod, excluding more complex approaches with telescopes and tracking mounts.

  1. You can get in as close as possible with a telephoto lens to capture detail of the changing partial, and total phases of the eclipse.
  2. Create wide-field and composite images showing the stages of the eclipse as the moon moves through the sky.

Wide-field Eclipse Composites

Lunar Eclipse over Maryborough Station-M

Partial phases of a lunar eclipse over Maryborough Station.
Canon 5D Mark II, 24-105mm lens at 82mm.
Nine exposures of the moon each 1/90 sec, f/8, ISO 200.
Images stacked is PS using lighten blending mode with one 2 second exposure of the foreground.

The moon moves across the sky at approximately 15 degrees per hour or 50 degrees over the full duration of the eclipse. You need a wide angle lens around 18mm focal length (28mm on a full frame camera) to capture all the stages of the eclipse in one field of view. An alternative is to frame up part of the eclipse with a longer focal length about 50mm (80mm on a full frame camera) like the image above which shows the partial stages in more detail.

In the northern hemisphere, the moon (like the sun) moves from left-to-right through the sky. So at the start of the eclipse, position the moon in the left side of the frame leaving it room to move across the image during the eclipse. Reverse that advice in the southern hemisphere. Night sky planetarium Apps such as Stellarium and SkySafari (iOS only) allow you to visualize the path of the moon through the sky to help plan your framing.

Telephoto Eclipse Images

With a moderate telephoto lens you can get nice detail of the changing stages of a lunar eclipse. During the partial stages the brightness of the moon allows for very short exposures, so trailing it should not be a problem, although you will need a sturdy tripod and use mirror lock-up to reduce vibration.

Lunar Eclipse Partial Phases Composite Canon 1100D, 300mm lens with 1.4x teleconverter, 1/125 sec, f5.6, ISO200

Lunar eclipse partial phases composite.
Canon 1100D, 300mm lens with 1.4x teleconverter, 1/125 sec, f/5.6, ISO 200

During totality, the Moon’s brightness greatly reduces, however this eclipse will be a little brighter than usual. Aim for exposures of around one second with the aperture wide open, and push the ISO as much as you need to, being careful not to blow the highlights on the brighter edge. You should be able to capture images like this one below, which is an example of what you can do even with regular affordable cameras (although nice lenses do help).


Totality during a lunar eclipse
Canon 1100D, 300mm lens with 1.4x teleconverter, 1/2 sec, f/5.6, ISO 200

Eclipse at Moonset

In the eastern United States and Canada, and the western half of South America, the moon will set during the partial stages before total eclipse. Through central areas the moon will set while totally eclipsed which will make it much dimmer than a normal moonset and potentially hard to see amongst bright city lights. In the western half of North America you get to enjoy the partial phases leading up to, and including the total eclipse, then capture the moon setting as the partial phases reverse at the end of the eclipse.

You can use apps and software like The Photographers Ephemeris (Android/iOS) and Photo Pills (iOS only) to plan the alignment of the moon against landscape features as it rises or sets. Australian photographer Colin Legg captured this shot of the moon rising during an eclipse last year. An astronomer would immediately recognize the unusual configuration – a crescent moon can normally only appear in a twilight sky in the same direction as sunrise or sunset. Here the crescent moon appears amidst the beautiful shading of Earth’s shadow and The Belt of Venus, opposite where the sun set about 15 minutes earlier. Similar images before sunrise will be possible across North and South America during April’s lunar eclipse.


Lunar Eclipse over Lake Ballard, Western Australia – image courtesy of Colin Legg

Will you get out and give it a go? Share any comments and questions below, and if you get a great shot of the eclipse share it here too.

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Phil Hart is an engineer by day and photographer under the stars by night. He is the author of the eBook Shooting Stars and a free Night Sky Photography Newsletter and runs Workshops in and around Melbourne, Australia.

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  • On Android to calculate sun and moon positions you could also use the free Photoxor Photography Toolset. It does these ephemeris calculations and furthermore golden and blue hours, twilight times, and many other calculations as well, even GPS tracking.
    If you have got an Android device please try it out and let me know what you think.

    Have a look at my blog

    or download from

    Note: I am the developer of this application.

  • Julia

    Yep, even though I’m in Alabama & might be able to see a partial eclipse if I’m lucky, I’m still going to set my alarm & get up early & try to get some photos of it.

  • Debbie

    I am going to be writing and article on travel photography and doing a lot of night photography for the images to go into There is an eclipse going to happen during that trip. I hope the weather is good so I can get some good images. Doing night sky should be moonless but on this trip it will be about the moon.

  • Jorge Combina

    I Token these photo last april 4th, at Puerto Deseado, Patagonia Argentina. I Subexposed 1 point to made a clear moon

  • One thing I’d like to add is that it’s VERY good to plan your shot a month in advance from the actual eclipse. You want to know ahead of time where the moon will be in the sky if you want to position some foreground elements properly.
    And the best thing about the moon is it cycles once a month. You can get an idea how bright initial exposures will be about 30 days in advance.
    Then a night or two before the actual even you can scout your location because you can see the approximate path the moon will take.
    Finally you can use a sun and moon rise and set app to tell you when and where the moon will be on the night of the eclipse.

  • Richard Leonard

    Took this one on Saturday night. Deliberately left the exposure a bit lower. Nikon 3200, 55-200mm at 165mm cropped, ISO 800, 1/6 second, f/5.6. First attempt, still practising!

  • Ross Walker

    I shot this sequence from Victoria Australia.
    Taken with my Canon 7D, 70~200 f2.8 @ 200 (320mm on my crop.) This was my first real attempt at doing a whole sequence. The cloud wasn’t helping very much with cloud blowing in every now and then. I edited it in PS CS6. The sequence starts at the bottom right hand side because we are in the southern hemisphere.

  • nice!

  • Ruth Anne and Tony

    Is the Colin Legg in Western Australia the same person we knew and loved as a teenager in Minneapolis, oh so many years ago? Nice job with the camera, Colin!

  • Dave Lister

    I see that you noted that this post was for a previous eclipse so the times are off.
    Here’s a time table for various time zones.

  • Ganesh Nagul

    Hello Sir could you please advise what settings should be used for Nikon 5200 with tamron 18 – 200 lens f3.5-6.3

    E-mail I.d

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