As Canon dSLRs bodies go, if you need video recording capability (I don’t!), the Rebel T1i has it (along with Face Detect AF, DiGIC 4, an extra 3 Megapixels more) but currently being the flagship model in the budget Canon dSLR range, it’s more expensive. On the opposite end the Rebel XS is slightly cheaper than the XSi, but IMHO the Rebel XSi gives you better value in the long run.

Usually people who buy just the body alone have the higher quality (and more expensive) lenses in mind or that they already own such lenses. (Same-brand lenses are generally superior to third party brands). The EF-S 18-55mm kit lens is quite OK for its build and optical quality, if you don’t mind starting off with a kit lens. Its image quality is neither terribly soft nor terribly sharp either.

I’d suggest that you also pick up a Canon EF 50mm 1.8 II prime lens as it is the cheapest in the entire range of Canon lenses. While it’s not particularly sharp at wide open apertures but stopped down a bit, it gives amazingly sharp images for its low price. It’s very lightweight and affordable, about 3.5 times cheaper than the next-in-line EF 50mm 1.4 USM.

I know a few guys who have the EF 50mm 1.8 II despite owning Canon’s costly L-series lenses. I asked them why they bought it: It’s cheap, yields surprisingly good images (at middle apertures), doesn’t bog them down with weight and if it accidentally breaks, well…the financial loss isn’t that bad. Of course there are much sharper portrait lenses from Canon (the modestly priced EF-S 60mm USM macro is a good choice) but for the low price of the EF 50mm 1.8 II, one can’t complain of its shortcomings. Great for low light shootings and casual portraits.

Canon also offers the Rebel XSi (EOS 450D) with the bundled with the 18-200mm IS kit zoom for certain markets in Asia (not sure if this bundle is available in the U.S.) but due to the lens’ high price this kit version actually costs more than the more upscale EOS 40D with the 18-55mm IS lens. The camera store where I bought my EOS 450D said that most of his customers who could afford the the 18-200mm IS kit bundle preferred the EOS 40D.

If you prefer to buy the XSi body alone and select the lens individually, AND you’re on a budgetary restraint, I’d recommend that you look into the focal lengths that you’re more likely to use and spend more on such lenses.

For example, if you’re into landscape or indoor photography , choose a better wide angle zoom lens with larger apertures.

For people shots (portraits), spend more on a better standard-to-short telephoto zoom or prime lens. If wildlife photography is your reason for buying a dSLR, look for a very good zoom lens in the 70-300mm focal range.

When I browse the photo equipment classifieds, I find that people who are selling their lenses cite severely under-utilized them as the #1 reason, with upgrading to better lenses the #2 motive, while switching brands or to Canon full frame bodies (if they’re selling EF-S lenses) third. Many people rush into buying their (often expensive) dream lens and end up selling them later.

BTW, if you’re still interested in a single general purpose travel zoom lens, the Canon EF-S 18-200mm IS is still a decent all-rounder. I wouldn’t buy it brand new, but would look for a used one in good shape. It’s handy when I just want to sling my top-loading case and not the entire backpack, but the 18-200mm’s not my immediate priority now.

On the subject of user’s comments, you can check out Canon’s site here: http://tinyurl.com/4r4knh.

Good luck with your purchase! :-)

Any ideas?!? Also, what are people’s opinions/feelings about the Canon XSi (which is my favorite thus far in my research and hands on tests)?

I was initially intrigued by Tamron’s super wide ratio (15x) 28-270mm zoom lens (hey, they have an even longer version now: 28-300mm!).

I’ve read mixed reviews of the Tamron – some say it’s a godsend while others aren’t optimistic with its image quality at certain focal lengths, especially on the extreme telephoto side. AF performance is also rather slow due to the complexity of the zoom.

Furthermore, at 270mm the largest aperture you’ll get is a rather slow f/6.3, which means your viewfinder will be darker at that point, you’ll also have to boost your ISO (increased noise), need to use higher shutter speeds and you get less shallow depth of field.

I did consider the Canon EF-S 18-200mm IS zoom lens for my Rebel XSi but when I found out its price (and balked at it), I ended up with the much more affordable EF-S 55-250mm IS lens instead with a lots of change to spare. Obviously, the 18-200mm option alleviates the need to swap lenses – so it’s very convenient for traveling light and you’re less likely to get dust into your sensor as you’re not changing lenses.

Coupled with my 18-55mm IS kit lens, the total focal length range I have now is 18-250mm. The EF-S 55-250mm is actually a light lens, it’s not much of a back breaker to carry it along in my camera bag. I find that for general photography, I use my 18-55mm more often than the 55-250mm.

I’ve read articles that narrower zoom ratio lenses generally give sharper images than super-wide ratios. Perhaps it might be prudent to buy a decent and affordable short ratio tele zoom, e.g. 70-300mm and see if the performance and results please you. Upgrade only when you feel it’s money well spent on a much better telephoto zoom lens.

Anyway, a random check on Amazon shows the average price of a brand new Tamron 28-270mm DI II VC lens hovers around USD1,300. Might be a a good idea to buy a pre-owned one for a few hundred bucks and try it out. If you don’t like it, at least your losses would be minimal.

Just my two cents. :-)

I have the same problem as you do.

I own a PowerShot S3is and it’s served me well since mid 2006. It was an upgrade

from my previous S2is and I got the S3is because its sleek black color looked more like a

dSLR rather than a toy. :-)

Your S5is has the newer DiGiC III image processor (vs DiGiC II in the S2/S3), a larger 2.5″ LCD, a hotshoe for external flash units, a bigger 8MP sensor, face detection AF and had its ISO extended one stop further to ISO 1600. However it shares the same zoom lens from the old S2is.

All the three Canon ultrazooms had one common bane: the use of a tiny 1/2.5″ CCD sensor.

In the S5is, the sensor has a pixel density of 32MP per square centimeter. That’s pretty crowded and meant that less light reaches the tightly packed individual

photodiodes.

Why did Canon retain the same 1/2.5″ sensor instead of increasing its size? The answer

is: to achieve the same maximum effective focal length of 432mm without having to

redesign and fit a larger and heavier zoom lens.

Since the camera’s 12x zoom is 72mm at the telephoto end, the field-of-View “crop factor”

of the camera is 6x (432mm divided by 72mm). That’s how Canon managed to achieve a (then)

whopping max focal length of 432mm (35mm film equiv). Now you know why compact P&S

cameras can achieve 140mm focal lengths with relatively small lenses! :-)

You didn’t mention the S5is AF modes you used to shoot wildlife, but your camera’s AF has three modes: Face Detect AF, FlexiZone and Center AF. I’m guessing that you didn’t use the Center AF mode, which meant that your S5is often focused on other objects, perhaps the nearest ones – that you didn’t want.

To switch to Center AF mode, press your Set button until the center rectangle turns white instead of green (green means FlexiZone AF). Once your S5is is set to Center AF, it should only focus on whatever’s at the center of your viewfinder or LCD display. If it can’t lock onto your desired subject, it usually means there’s not enough contrast or light for the camera to focus properly.

Digital zoom is found in most, if not all non-dSLR cameras. It’s a cheap means of getting a tighter shot at the expense of image quality. You won’t find digital zoom in dSLRs because of this.

What digital zoom does is amplifying the individual pixels that your sensor receives, therefore images will look blurry and pixelated. Your S5is however, has a “safety zoom” feature which warns you the point where your images will start to degrade. Whatever you do, don’t exceed that limit (it’s indicated in your viewfinder). Another option is NOT to use digital zoom at all. Instead, shoot with the largest resolution available using just the optical zoom. Crop the part that you want in your computer and discard the rest of the picture.

All zoom lenses tend to yield softer images and suffer from focusing difficulties at the telephoto end. Zoom lenses are handy because you don’t need to switch lenses (in a dSLR) but there’s a price to be paid: less-than-sharp images. That’s why prime (fixed focal length) telephoto lenses are often favored by professional photogaphers – they are much sharper because prime lenses aren’t complex like zoom lenses. The catch is that you’re stuck at that focal length and you have to move closer to or farther from the subject to compose.

Stepping into dSLR territory for the first time is usually a headache for the novice. I’d suggest that you start off with a decent (not necessarily fancy) dSLR body and invest in a good, sharp lens instead of the other way around.

I prefer Canon myself because even their basic models (e.g. Rebel XS, XSi and T1i) are made in Japan. Except for the upscale models, lower end Nikons like the D90 are made in Thailand to help lower their end prices.

While it’s not necessarily a bad thing, but as far as dSLRs are concerned, I would expect dSLR bodies to be made in Japan. Low cost P&S cameras are another story, Canon, Nikon and Sony all have overseas factories in China, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand to take advantage of cheaper labor.

If you like Canon, the Rebel XSi (aka EOS 450D) delivers a lot of camera for the beginner. Don’t bother with the slightly cheaper Rebel XS (EOS 1000D), for just USD100 more (or thereabouts), the XSi gives more bang for the buck. Although the entry level Rebel XS was introduced after the XSi, the latter is still more popular amongst novices and seasoned dSLR photographers alike.

(And if you buy a Canon Speedlite flash, you’ll be pleased to know that you can also use it on your present S5is!) :-)

I’d suggest that you read up the many professional reviews on budget dSLRs. Pay attention to the image quality, especially taken at high ISO speeds. Some cameras are sharper, some noisier, some have too agressive Noise Reduction that details get smudged, etc.

Wishing you happy dSLR hunting! :-)

I have owned the Canon S5 IS for nearly two years. (Actually, some of the information on this site helped me choose this camera as my step up from a Kodak compact digital that worked very well).

Although I enjoy using my S5, I find that the digital zoom does not meet my needs. The camera occasionally chooses to auto focus on something other than my subject, and every picture seems to need adjusting. It does very, very well outdoors, but it’s sometimes too slow to capture birds in motion or wildlife running by. I have shot two weddings for friends, and other than the occasional out-of-focus subject or grainy, pixelated zoomed-in candid picture, it’s done fairly well. Ironically, it seems to work very well in Portrait setting, even for things not considered portraits!

However, I am planning to upgrade soon. I LOVE outdoor photography, seem to be getting into weddings (just got another request), and like spontaneous, candid, zoomed-in shots. The Canon S5 IS limits me, particularly in zooming. It just isn’t good enough, and after cropping, the quality is horrible. Perhaps I’m doing something wrong?

I’m considering the Nikon D90 or the Nikon D5000 (both with lens kits). I have a lot of older SLR equipment that I’m hoping might work, as well, such as Cokin filters, various lenses, and other toys I’ve collected prior to the digital camera frenzy.

Can’t make up my mind, and I still have a lot to learn! But, for what I need from a camera, I DO KNOW that my P&S — even with all the manual controls — is limiting my style of photography.

If anyone has any suggestions for me, I’m all ears. My budget is approximately is no more than $1,500 including lens.

This website has been very helpful, and I’m anxious to keep reading. Thanks to all for their suggestions and dedication to providing real answers for real users.

Firstly, my disclaimer: I don’t work for Canon and neither am I a professional photographer or professional reviewer. :-)

After reading your interesting comments and prerequisites for your first digicam, may I strongly suggest that you consider Canon’s latest PowerShot G11 (I’ve just bought one two days ago and am extremely pleased with it).

Here’s why:

1. The Canon G11 is neither bulky nor expensive like a dSLR. Of course, dSLRs when you are proficient with handling them, yield much more superior picture quality than the average compact or ultra compact. Of course, size is relative – so if you’re comparing the G11 to say, the PowerShot A590is or the SX200is the G11 is obviously bigger by comparison.

2. The swivel-out LCD screen can be useful when taking photos of your dishes or people from odd angles which is hard to do with fixed LCD screens. If you don’t like photographing with the LCD jutting out, you can easily fold it back, flush with the camera’s back – just like with a fixed LCD monitor. The G11’s 2.8″ screen is adequately large for composing photos and its 400,000 dot resolution is tack sharp for playback viewing.

3. Photographing food is best accomplished in natural ambient light or indirect flash. The G11 has a more sensitive sensor compared to most compact P&S cameras and can take surprisingly good photos in low light. Of course, dSLRs are a lot better when coupled with “fast” lenses, but such high performance lenses are heavy, bulky and often cost more than the G11 itself!

4. The G11 has a “Smart Auto” mode specially tailored for novice users. It can evaluate not less than 22 photographic “situations” in real time and automatically adjust the camera’s settings depending on the situation. As you get more proficient with the camera (and photography), you can explore the “Creative Modes”, including aperture, shutter priority and manual modes. All G-series Canons (with the exception of the discontinued G7 model) permits you to capture in RAW format in addition to the standard JPG picture format. You can start off with shooting in the normal JPG format and progress to RAW as you get more experienced. :-)

5. Don’t like how the built-in flash makes pics of your culinary work appear “flat”? You buy the inexpensive Canon Speedlite EX270 external flash. With its vertical bounce capability and more powerful flash output, you can experiment with bounce flash techniques (indirect flash) that can give a more natural looking image than with direct flash. Of course, Canon’s better 430 EX II and 580 EX II strobe units are more powerful and flexible than the 270EX, but they are expensive, heavy and can make handling the G11 a bit tricky. There’s also Canon’s specialized flash units for serious close up flash photography, like the MT42EX ring light (requires a separately sold adapter for the G11), but I doubt you’ll want to get into that. But it’s nice to know that several accessories meant for Canon’s digital SLRs can be used on the G11.

6. Should you someday decide to upgrade to a Canon dSLR such as the EOS series, the Speedlite EX270 flash can still be used with your future EOS/Digital Rebel series. Of course, by this time you may be already buying a 430EX II or 580EX II flash. As a minor side note, I am pleased to learn that the RC60-E3 wired remote control switch I bought for my EOS 450D is also compatible with my new Canon G11. :-)

7. The Canon G-series cameras are renowned for their image quality and features by many professional and serious amateur photographers alike (most likely they’re existing Canon dSLR users) as a smaller and lightweight back up camera. The G-series is also a boon when they don’t feel like lugging their heavy dSLR equipment around. Canon dSLR users are likely to own the better Speedlite flash strobes, therefore they can use their existing Canon flash units on a G-series camera. The G-lineup (except for the G7) can shoot pictures in RAW format (as I mentioned earlier), a format favored by pros and advanced amateur dSLR users.

Price-wise, the G11 is slotted in between Canon’s entry level dSLR (the Rebel XS or EOS 1000D) and the cheaper A-series PowerShots. It’s also priced (strangely) similarly to Canon’s PowerShot SX20is, which is a “bridge” or ultra-zoom camera, but in my opinion the G11 should fit your requirements better than the heavy and bulky SX20is.

I was also pleasantly surprised by the G11’s affordable introduction price – I initially expected it to cost the same as Canon’s EOS 1000D (Rebel XS) with the bundled (cheap) 18-55mm kit lens. People who opine that the G11 (or the recent G10)’s price is expensive don’t realize that the G11 is actually a lot cheaper than the old (but still formidable) Canon G6 from 2004 and is also cheaper than the PowerShot SX1is ultra-zoom.

Admittedly I’m a huge Canon camera fan. I’ve owned several digital and film cameras in the past – a Canon AV-1 (film), EOS 620 (film), PowerShot A80, A620, S2is and presently, an old Nikon EM (film), S3is, G11, EOS 450D and a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W150 ultra-compact.

My views of the new G11 are based on the literally tens of thousands of photos I’ve taken since 2004 using all those digicams combined. Through personal experience I have learned the pros and cons of each model that I’ve owned – not just features and performance-wise but their image quality characteristics too.

Personally I would rate the G11’s image quality somewhat in between my former PowerShot A620 and my EOS 450D dSLR (but I think it’s a bit closer to the EOS’s image quality).

The G11 is by no means a perfect compact digicam (there’s no such thing as a perfect digital camera). Continuous shooting is at a disappointing snail’s pace (about 1.1 frames/sec max) and is not a suitable camera for photographing sporting events or action packed scenes. While its competition may offer HD or full-HD video recording, the G11 could only muster the old standard, 640×480 pixel video resolution.

Canon could have designed the G11 with full HD video recording, but I guess the company targeted this model for advanced still photographers who don’t really care about video recording (like me) rather than the casual user who prefer full HD video capability at the expense of image quality (as with the slightly pricier PowerShot SX1is ultrazoom). It’s also possible that if the G11 had full HD recording (like the PowerShot SX1is), the eventual price of the G11 would be a lot higher making it less affordable.

As for the sheer bulky appearance of the G11, the camera actually feels lighter than its looks suggest. Casual and first-time users are apt to make the bulk/weight as an issue, but seasoned dSLR photographers will tell you that actually prefer a bit of heft in a camera. A compact digicam that is too light doesn’t feel solid in your hands and a bit of extra weight helps to steady the camera for hand held shooting.

I’ve read some users’ reviews as saying that the G11 is “complicated to use”, but in actuality it’s not. In all likelihood, they graduated from a basic point-and-shoot model therefore all the myriad features in the G11 look like they have to learn rocket science. :-D

Size-wise, the G11 won’t fit into your pants pocket easily, but it makes an ideal all-around general purpose travel camera. So there you have it – the G11 can be used casually using its easy “Smart Auto” mode or as creatively with its other modes (like manual mode). You decide how “complicated” or “simple” the G11 is going to be for you, not the other way around!

There’s no such thing as “one size fits all” digital camera.

Small and stylish ultracompacts are pocketable but they generally don’t yield exceptional image quality. dSLRs are the exact opposite – they take the best photos (especially mated to really expensive lenses) but are expensive and large. Bridge cameras (ultrazooms) offer you the convenience of one single long zoom lens, but their image quality still cannot surpass that of dSLRs. Ultrazooms are generally bigger than compact digicams, but smaller than dSLRs.

Therefore based on the scenarios and requirements you’ve posted, it seems like the G11 should fit your bill nicely.

Lastly – don’t just take my word for it. Sure, there are many other excellent competing point-and-shoot digicams, like Panasonic for instance but if you need to have just one camera (for now), I implore you to check out the online reviews on the G11 first and perhaps, try one out at a local store.

Hope this helps and I apologize for the very long read! :-)