Shoot for the Crop – Don’t Cut Yourself Short
A Guest Post by Matthew Dutile
If you read my last post on Digital Photography School, Stop Taking Pictures, Start Creating Images, you know that I’m a big advocate of planning out the reason for taking a photo, and setting yourself a client for direction.
Beyond the creative goals (or rare capture if you are a wildlife photographer) of knowing who or what you are shooting for, you should start raising your awareness to some of the format demands of your client – even if it’s just yourself. Particularly, start shooting for popular crops.
By that, I’m not referring to cropping to improve an images’ composition. There are already a lot of great posts about that on this site. Rather, I’m talking about specifically composing a photo in-camera with the intent to later crop or size it for prints, publication, comp cards, web banners and more.
Know your camera’s aspect ratio
We all generally tend to compose our images by the 3:2 aspect ratio (that’s a 4×6” print size). After all, that’s what you see when looking through the viewfinder of most common consumer and DSLR cameras. There are cameras that have the 4:3 (squarer) and 16:9 (longer) aspect ratios as well. Make sure you know what aspect ratio your camera is. For the sake of this discussion let’s focus on the 3:2 ratio most of you are likely using.
Unfortunately, many popular print sizes don’t follow the 3:2 aspect ratio. Most magazines are 8.5×11” full pages with 11×17” double trucks (that’s a two-page spread) and one of the most common print sizes is the 8×10”. Each of these is different from the standard 3:2 photos you’re capturing. There’s nothing worse than taking a great photo of a friend, family member or client, only to discover later when you want to print a different crop that you’ve cut off the top of their head, a hand or some other important element to the photo.
Here’s a look at three popular crops and what to look for when shooting for them.
The Portrait 8×10”
Invariably, this is an extremely popular crop and print size for portrait photography. You’ll find the 8×10” photo framing up couples, families, wedding formals and senior pictures on end tables and bookshelves in households around the world. What you may not have thought of at first is that it’s a full two inches shorter on the top, bottom or a bit on both ends. Your friend or a client may not directly tell you that they’d like some 8×10”s before embarking on a photo session, but you can bet that’s what they’ll likely try to get printed after it.

You can see in the image here of one of my friends, that while I left a good deal of room around this full body shot, I still added in quite a bit of extra head room for an 8×10” crop. Ultimately, the shorter image is much more flattering (and likely why it’s such a popular choice amongst everyone). Inside is an alternative, closer cropped 8×10” option. Do remember not to crop so close though that if the person frames the photo a part of the frame ends up overlapping and cutting off a bit.
The Magazine Full-Page 8.5×11”
I’ll caveat this section by first saying not all magazines use an 8.5×11” page size. There are squarer magazines, taller ones and everything in between. If you do end up shooting full-page photos for publication, be sure to speak with the editor or art director to find out what size their magazine is. However, most will use 8.5×11” pages.
The nice thing is if you’ve mastered the 8×10” the 8.5×11” is nearly identical. The only difference is with the 8.5×11” you get just a bit of extra room on the top or bottom. So if you’re shooting for the squarer 8×10” already, you’ll have this full page crop easily.
The Double Truck
A double truck crop is an image that is spread across two facing pages of a magazine or newspaper, or more commonly known as the two-page spread. The great thing about this crop – it’s nearly identical to a 3:2 ratio landscape, with only a small margin cropped from the top or bottom.

The important element to remember is to compose your photo so that the subject of it isn’t chopped in half at the middle of the bind. As you can see in this photo of my friend leaning against the parking meter, the focus and subject of the photo is almost completely on the left page. This also leaves a page of negative space open for editorial or ad copy.
Comp cards, Web banners and more
There’s an infinite number of ways to crop a photo for all sorts of purposes. Web banners, model comp cards, business cards, large landscape, square, tall, skinny and the list goes on. Whatever it is you’re shooting for know what the crop will look like in relation to the aspect ratio of your camera. Test out some sizes on existing photos you have, even if they don’t fit the frame. When you go out shooting and you’d like a new Web banner for your blog or Web site, at least you’ll know where you’ll have to keep the relevant content in your framing.

Here’s something that helped me learn to remember my crops. I often assist and speak with Phoenix photographer Adam Nollmeyer for advice. Every time I would return from a shoot and proof the images with him, he would pick out the ones that I had framed too close or cut a body part on and deduct a few dollars off our next assisting fee. It’s a very effective and quick way to learn. You can duplicate it at home by putting a little jar on top of your fridge. Every time you frame too closely and can’t deliver an 8×10” photo, put a few bucks in. When you start getting it right consistently, treat yourself with the money in there to a little reward.
Even if you’re not looking to ever shoot for publication or portfolio prints, perhaps you’d like to create your own photography book to display your images to your friends and family. Knowing these crops will help you if ever the urge strikes. You’ll be able to proudly display your work in an appealing format and with all the elements in tact that made you first think when taking the photo, “this will be a great image.”
About Guest Contributor: Matthew Dutile is a part-time lifestyle photographer and communications professional out of Phoenix, AZ. You can view his Web site for more images or find him on Facebook. Contact him anytime. He wants to hear from you!





27 Responses to “Shoot for the Crop – Don’t Cut Yourself Short” - Add Yours
December 8th, 2009 at 6:16 am
This is something that I do without even thinking anymore, but great advice for people just starting out. I messed up more than a few prints finding this out the hard way!
December 8th, 2009 at 6:26 am
One day I will live in a magical world where people order 8×12 since I like what comes out of camera most of the time. Everyone will have 8×12 frames and portfolio books. And the world will be a happy place.
Until then, great blog post. ;)
December 8th, 2009 at 6:29 am
I have a very strong background in photography and a degree from some crazy college. The one thing that bugs me the most about photographers and their images is that there isn’t the ability to crop. Shooting wide and cropping is the most advantageous method of utilizing the best of your photos.
I’ve had photo’s I could have cropped several ways and gotten great outcomes. If I didn’t shoot for the cropping I would have missed some very nice images.
Good stuff…
December 8th, 2009 at 6:43 am
I like to have a grid focus screen to help keep things straight. As an added benefit, the outer vertical lines are close to an 8×10 aspect ratio. I use them for reference when shooting a portrait. They are only about $40 and are very easy to install. Just let you camera know what screen you have so it can compensate the exposure properly.
December 8th, 2009 at 8:33 am
That’s what I miss from my Olympus, four thirds is much closer to the 8 X 10 format. Ok, I won’t exchange my D300 for that reason though…
December 8th, 2009 at 11:19 am
I learned this the hard way. I conveniently applied the free cropping any which way I want and ended up with non-standard size images which ultimately led to parts of the images cut off in standard prints. Thankfully, those people who ordered the prints knew I am an amateur and this was something new to me so I didn’t endure a severe backlash.
Thanks for sharing.
December 8th, 2009 at 3:26 pm
Yeah, it’s a real challenge to stay within the standard printing sizes. I’m glad to have a local printer who will do any odd shape I come up with because he just prints on a huge sheet and then cuts out the print from that.
The camera I use (Nikon D300) has a 100% view of the frame through the viewfinder so I always compose for that never thinking about printing in the future.
December 8th, 2009 at 8:59 pm
Good tips there – I could have done with a guide like this when I made the transition from film to digital.
I always have to bear in mind when shooting proms that my print size is the wrong ratio for my full frame body – but such is life.. :D
December 8th, 2009 at 10:55 pm
This is all exceptionally good advice, but I must inject a note of caution. If images are to be printed large, they don’t want to be cropped too heavily or quality will suffer.
December 8th, 2009 at 11:34 pm
Great article. I have tried to make the point of always allowing a little more space around my subjects for cropping. With the amount of megapixels we have available these days, you can afford to leave some room for cropping later.
December 9th, 2009 at 2:05 am
Good article. I have a bunch of pictures of lighthouses that I took without considering the crop. They will crop OK to 4 x 6 or 8 x 12, but will not work in an 8 x 10 crop.
Another thing I’ve learned the hard way is to do all your Photoshop editing and save the picture before making any crops. If you crop first to 8 x 10, then apply some color enhancement or correction, you may not be able to crop the final picture to a 4 x 6 or any other size.
December 9th, 2009 at 4:08 am
Thanks for the comments all. And yes Tom, you’re quite right. Over cropping can really cut down on the size of larger prints. The goal is to fill the width of the frame, while still leaving enough head room for crops. Thus you haven’t cropped your enlargement size, but just conformed to the right ratio.
December 9th, 2009 at 7:33 am
if you get yourself in a pinch you can always resize the image via PS, not a practice I recommend as you can end up with distorted images especially with people. always best to leave some room unless you are really confident with the results of your image.
Albeit I don’t shoot for publications. I did learn this long ago when reading about techniques on the print. This should be taught to beginners, when they are being taught about thirds or sometime early on.
December 9th, 2009 at 11:15 pm
Also, if you shoot only for digital display then it doesn’t matter what crop y ou choose
December 10th, 2009 at 3:01 am
One thing that is very important for the average beginner shooting photos is very similar to this.
All P&S cameras shoot in a ration of 4:3, however almost all prints done from this type of camera will be in landscape fromat and either 6×4 or 7×5. These are both shorter than 6×4 so you need to leave some room at the top and bottom of the frame to avoid cutting peoples heads off!
December 10th, 2009 at 4:01 am
Good article! I agree that it is important to compose you photo with the end use in mind. Something I may have neglected. Shooting primarily motorsports, initially I always had room to crop becasue I didn’t have “long glass” to get in tight on the subject. But as I started to buy or rent long glass, I started filling the frame when taking the photo and not leaving room to crop for various print sizes. So now I have had to take a step back and concentrate on taking shots that allow me to “fill the frame” with the “crop” and not with the “shot”.
As some others have commented, there is a difference between resizing and cropping. If you your cropping results in a resizing of your photo, you need to get closer to your subject or get longer glass (that was my problem initially). But if you have properly composed your photo initially, cropping should not result in a resizing and loss of resolution of your photo.
December 11th, 2009 at 4:02 am
Something to always keep in mind – especially for wedding photographers – wedding albums are generally 10″x10″, to accommodate 8×10s printed either way. Or 4×5s, 4 to a page.
If you get your image too long/tall you have to get a special mat for the book that is 7×10 and have the shot printed that way. Makes for more blank space on the page.
I was lucky all those years, shooting with a medium format Mamiya twin lens – the image was square – I never had to turn the camera, and I didn’t have to decide on the spot which way I wanted the image to go.
I had them all printed 5×5, and cut them down 4×5 or 5×4, which ever way I liked best.
I have to think more about that, now.
December 11th, 2009 at 4:55 am
Great article. I just checked out my Panasonic DMC-ZS3 P&S. It has a setting that automatically gives you three aspect ratios in one shot. They are 4:3,, 3:2 and 16:9. Wow! I have some experimenting to do. Thankyou Mathew and thanks to the Digital Photography School.
December 11th, 2009 at 5:41 am
Thanks so much for posting this, Matthew. I was recently disappointed with an 8×10 made from a digital photo: now I know why!
I LOVE the suggestion about the jar on top of the fridge. That’s a great idea and I will use it!
December 11th, 2009 at 9:10 am
Great article, really enjoyed it.
The shots are amazing as well, really like all 3. Your friend is a great model.
December 11th, 2009 at 10:27 am
After reading this artcile,I am now a more aware photographer.On this issue not many discussions were there.An excellent article Thanks.
December 11th, 2009 at 10:29 am
Just on question–are you shooting everything in RAW so that you can make numerous crops without losing image quality? Or just using “save as” for every different crop of the same photo? I’m obviously not a professional….I dislike using RAW because it’s much more difficult to easily view the photos after uploading them to my computer. I have ZoomExbrowser and Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.
December 11th, 2009 at 10:36 am
Just an added note to my question above–I know that images shot in RAW don’t lose quality when you do edits or crops….
December 14th, 2009 at 2:16 am
precise cropping spells a big, big difference.
December 16th, 2009 at 3:00 am
@imablessingtoo:
I’m not familiar with ZoomExbrowser but there is a free viewer called “FastStone Image Viewer” and can be found online at http://www.faststone.org It will view raw files effortlessly. I’m sure there may be a couple of other free viewers but this one, I use.
I do not know whether Photoshop Elements can work with RAW images. However, if cost is an issue and Adobe products are not in your budget range, maybe you can look into Corel Paint Shop Pro X2 Ultra. It reads RAW and does a sundry of things that Adobe Photoshop 7 can do (and then some). AND it’s currently being offered for less than $80.
You do not have to shoot in RAW to preserve image quality, although it does help to have a RAW version of your jpg. Toning and adjustments are a lot more fun with RAW. Maybe your camera shoots both together?
As an attempt to answer your question(s):
Say you crop your image to an 8×10. Do a “save as” from your .psd to .jpg
After the save, back up to the original .psd work and create a new crop using 5×7, and save from .psd to .jpg
I would not recommend cropping a 5×7 from an 8×10 or similar. Always create your crops from the original working file, whether it is the original RAW, jpg, or psd file. This is what will save on the resolution / quality.
Kathy
December 16th, 2009 at 12:36 pm
Thank you, Kathy. Actually, it’s ZoomBrowser Ex. I had it wrong. Anyway, yes, my camera (Rebel XT) does shoot both RAW and jpg. I didn’t see the value in continuing to shoot both because it took so much memory and I was having trouble with viewing and editing RAW. But your post made a lot of sense to me, and I will look into Corel. I only have Adobe Photoshop 2 and that may also be part of the problem. I will make sure that I don’t edit my originals–just make copies to edit and only make crops from the original copies as you suggest. Thanks for the post.
December 17th, 2009 at 4:17 am
RAW is my best friend. I shoot in completely manual settings (from shutter speed to aperture to even setting kelvin temps for my WB) and sometime the WB will be a tad off, or the tinting not quite right. But thanks to RAW, it’s a quick fix in post. I’m a big advocate of RAW. I’ve been shooting it since day 1.
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