Rock Concert Photography – 9 Tips on How to Get The Shot
In this post Nyani Quarmyne talks about getting the shot – catching that moment in a show that captures the essence of a performer and the emotion they’re expressing.
Much of what I’ve seen written on concert photography centers on gear and the technical aspects of shooting (there are a number of good tips on this site). Of course, gear and technical know-how are important, and I’ll touch on a couple of salient points. But there are other equally important, more esoteric concepts at the heart of stage photography.
1. Get the Exposure Right
Stage lighting can be tricky, so you have to get your exposure right or you’ll wind up with beautifully composed, crap shots.
Evaluative metering can’t be relied on in the high-contrast and variable lighting conditions that are typically found on a concert stage. Spot metering off your subject or a mid-tone can be useful, but when you have bright lights in the background it can result in a correctly exposed subject and ugly blown highlights in the background. The optimal exposure is often something of a compromise, so I personally prefer to leave the camera set to evaluative/ matrix metering and then get a feel for how much over- or under-exposure is needed for different parts of the stage through estimation and some trial and error. With practice you’ll begin to guesstimate the right settings.
You’ll generally be shooting wide open, except when you may need to stop down to get multiple subjects at different distances from the camera in focus, so often it’s your shutter speed and ISO that you’ll be playing with. Once you have a sense of how much over- or under-exposure is needed, you can vary your aperture/ ISO/ shutter speed relationship while keeping the optimal exposure in mind. For example, say you’re getting sharp, correctly exposed images of a guitarist at 125th/s, f/2.8 @ ISO200. Then a singer joins him in the frame. You need a little more depth of field to keep them both in focus, so you leave the shutter speed as it is to keep your shots sharp, stop down two stops to f/5.6 to increase the depth of field, and raise the ISO two stops from ISO200 to ISO800. Your exposure is identical, but now you have the depth of field you need. Just remember to revaluate your exposure when shooting a different area of the stage, or when the lighting conditions change.
A camera that allows for clean high-ISO images is a huge advantage as higher ISO settings allow you to keep your shutter speed relatively high, reducing camera shake and better allowing you to freeze action.
2. Use your Histogram!
The viewfinder preview is too small to give you a sufficiently detailed view of over- and under-exposed areas of your image. The highlights view will show you where you’ve lost highlight detail, but it doesn’t show you what you may have inadvertently sacrificed in the shadows. So if you don’t already, learn to use your histogram – it’s an invaluable tool for evaluating exposure, particularly in tricky lighting conditions. I have my camera set up so that pressing the centre button on the 4-way navigator flashes up a full screen histogram. That way I can use my preview to check sharpness and focus, and then push the centre button to do a quick histogram check before I go back to shooting.
Don’t obsess over checking your shots – if you’re looking at your screen you’re missing what’s happening on stage. Do enough checks to fine tune your settings for a given set of lighting conditions, and then focus on shooting.
3. Watch the Performers
Now that you’ve got your exposure sorted, watch the performers. No, I mean really watch the performers. Analyse their performance. How do they move on the stage? Where are their favourite places to stand? What are their idiosyncrasies? Facial expressions? Favourite postures? Signature moves? How do they express emotion? It doesn’t take a long – just watch for a while once a band has hit its stride and you’ll begin to see that each performer has little habitual movements, facial expressions, individual quirks, that are unique. Identifying these is key to capturing the individuality and expressiveness of a singer or player. If you have the opportunity to watch several performances by the same artist you may also find that there are events that happen at particular points in a set – pyrotechnics, a leap off a speaker stack, entry of a stage prop – and you can plan for these, too.
4. Anticipate
Once you know what you’re looking for, anticipate it. If you’ve noticed that a guitarist bends a certain way during emotional moments in his solos, anticipate it, compose for it, and be ready when the moment comes. If a singer leans away from the mike a certain way during soulful pauses between song lines, pre-visualise your shot, get set up for it, and execute it when the elements come together. Of course, you also have to be ready to react instantly to capture a spontaneous moment.
5. Compose for Form
People, instruments, objects on stage and even the glow of stage lights create shapes and lines in the frame. The beautiful lines of a guitar, for example, generally look better from some angles than others, as do the combined lines of the guitar and its player. Try and see the shapes that the elements in your viewfinder create and use them in your compositions. Take into account things like whether a singer holds the mike in their right hand or left, whether a guitarist is playing a right- or left-handed guitar, and then move around to position yourself to get the right angles for your shots.
Work with the stage lights – move around and use them to rim light, sidelight or silhouette your subject. If there’s a background light flaring into your lens, see if you can make the flare work for you.
6. Watch for Foreground Clutter
One of the challenges of concert photography is the clutter that is generally found on a concert stage – microphones and their stands, monitor speakers, amplifiers, cables, and even roving videographers. Clutter detracts from your shots. Try and position yourself to get shots that are as clear of such distractions as possible. In particular, watch for microphones that obscure a singer’s face (their mouth in particular), and watch for the shadows microphones cast too. In general, avoid standing directly in front of a singer as more often than not you’ll end up with a microphone where their mouth should be. Drummers are particularly tricky to get clean shots of, as they are surrounded by all kinds of ‘hardware’ and are usually also far back on the stage. Try and get shots of them from the side if you can.
7. Watch for Background Clutter Too!
Perth photographer Rob Miller likes to say, “Forget about the subject, it’s the background that makes your photo.” Of course he doesn’t mean that literally, but a fantastic moment captured against a messy background will ultimately be a messy shot, while a fantastic moment captured against a fantastic background will be a fantastic shot. Watch out for elements of the background that you want to avoid, like stage scaffolds, lighting rigs and even other performers, and try to compose for those that you can use to your advantage. Remember that on a well lit stage you can use the glow of stage lights, or even the lights themselves, as your background. If there’s nothing going on in the background, if possible, try and set your exposure so that your subject is correctly exposed but the background collapses to black.
Fast lenses help with background clutter, too, as not only do they allow you to make the most of what light you have available, but the shallow depth of field produced by a wide aperture helps to blur out background distractions. Accordingly, I rely primarily on a 70-200 f/2.8, a 50mm f/1.4 for very low light and for close shots in small venues or to take in more of the stage, and occasionally a 17-35mm f/2.8 for close work and for stage, crowd and venue shots.
8. Be Nice
Remember that while you are trying to get a job done, everyone else is trying to enjoy a show that they have paid to see. Be nice. Think about the people behind you – get your shots, but try not to block anyone’s view for too long. If you’re in a crowd and need to get right in someone’s face for a moment to get a shot, do so politely. I often find that if you’re nice to people they’ll actually help you get the shots you need by encouraging other people to let you get to where you need to be.
I try to avoid the use of flash as it’s distracting for performers and annoying for the people around you (and often also not allowed). Flash can also look unnatural, as it typically casts light of a different colour to the stage lights onto your subject. The exception to the no flash rule is when I need to lift shadows over a performer’s eyes, for example when someone is wearing a hat.
I also ensure that the autofocus assist beam on my camera is off so that it’s not poking performers in the eye, and I turn my viewfinder preview off so it’s not a blinking distraction to people around me. (This also stops people craning over your shoulders to check out your business.) It’s a simple matter to press “Play” every now and then when you need to check a shot. If your camera allows, create a custom settings profile so you can set your camera the way you want it with a couple of button pushes, rather than having to go wandering through the menus every time you need to get set up.
9. Show Your Appreciation
Anyone on a stage likes to know they’re being appreciated. Show your appreciation. You don’t have to jump up and down and scream (it’s difficult to take steady shots while jumping and screaming…), but make eye contact, show your appreciation with a smile, give a nod of thanks when a performer looks down your lens. Sometimes you’ll find a little appreciation earns you your own little mini performance, when a performer heads over to where you’re standing, looks down the barrel of your lens and pulls some moves just for you.
Nyani is a Ghanaian/ Filipino/ Australian photographer spending 2009 travelling around North America with his family working on a personal project. Find his work on his website and blog at www.nqphotography.com, and follow the family’s travels at www.YearInAmerica.net.










54 Responses to “Rock Concert Photography – 9 Tips on How to Get The Shot” - Add Yours
September 23rd, 2009 at 1:13 am
Unless I’m asked to provide a performer photos, I would never use flash, even with a hat brim causing shadows.
Musicians who wear hats on stage are quite often doing so due to sensitivity to the lights shining on them – and using a flash in their faces is even worse than on most performers! You just have to use it to your advantage.
Thank you for showing some examples which weren’t as well-lit as a typical photographer who does very few concerts will want. In showing your examples, you show both well-lit features as well as the advantage in sometimes just letting light highlight a bit of someone’s face rather than getting that full “daylight” exposure – you’re capturing the actual experience. Concert photography is my big love, and it’s nice to see someone not attempting to eliminate effects of colored lights or make concert photos look like something other than a concert.
September 23rd, 2009 at 1:42 am
nice tutorial i have in this blog, great content , photography is an art
September 23rd, 2009 at 2:12 am
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on concert photography. I normally do not use flash, because most of the time it is forbidden. However, when you are taking concert shots for friends, try to set up a flash on the side of the stage and fire in a reflective umbrella. I used this strobist technique last weekend (the light conditions were really poor, just blue and red spots) and it worked amazingly well.
For my concert shots have a look at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/matthiashombauer/sets/72157614962380995/
September 23rd, 2009 at 3:23 am
Great post. I love shooting live music. For me lighting is always the key. I’ve been fortunate enough to shoot the same band a couple of times. The more you shoot a band the more you’ll have a knack for the lighting for certain songs or different parts of the set. I’m a big fan of shooting from behind the band to capture the crowd. Most performers feed off the energy of the crowd so incorporating people in the shot can be real cool.
My advice for people who want to shoot music – (as always) shoot as often as possible. Make friends with local bands and hone your skill. Who knows – they may be called on to open for more national acts and get your foot in the door for photo passes etc. Be respectful and more often than not – people will help accommodate you.
For some examples of my work: http://www.flickr.com/photos/grtaylor2/sets/72157615726801331/
September 23rd, 2009 at 4:01 am
Thanks for the post! I’ve been doing a bit of concert photography lately, it seems… but I must say that your shots are incredibly impressive – sharp focus, great exposures and composition. Nicely done!
September 23rd, 2009 at 5:28 am
Great article.
I use these techniques when shooting wildlife. Get the camera set and watch for pattern in your subjects movement.
Thanks
September 23rd, 2009 at 5:30 am
I forget to look at the histogram on my camera; I really need to do that to avoid overexposed and underexposed photos. Thanks for the great tips.
September 23rd, 2009 at 5:31 am
Great post and sweet shots!
September 23rd, 2009 at 5:52 am
I don`t that experience, but I can tell you that the point #9 is TRUE
–
Great contribution – thanks
September 23rd, 2009 at 7:18 am
Learnt the hard way about using spot metering. Shot a festival for the first time and very sunny. Back ground dark so detail of performer blown out. Some good points there off to gig on thursday will try them out.
Also to practise try local pub/club to practise with newish bands. All myspace very good to get to know the performers.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/graham_warsap/collections/72157621546519936/
Have a look at my music collection on flickr
September 23rd, 2009 at 7:58 am
It certainly is a whole different set of skills. Thanks for the writeup :)
On occasion I’ve photographed a local “School of Rock” concert and as it’s typically in a club with terrible lighting, most of the time, everyone just ends up looking very…well…red, orange, or some other odd color. Though I keep it that way as that’s how they looked, I also found that, for certain shots, very high contrast black and white looks nice too.
Won’t say these are awesome. But the performers (all are mostly parents of kids in the school) enjoyed the shots. Most ended up using them for their facebook profiles to show off to their kids :)
http://photos.timarai.com/p507482313
September 23rd, 2009 at 8:27 am
I’ve been doing concert photography for a little while now and I’ve found through my trials and error that the lens has a little bit to do with it was well. I’m not talking quality of lens (IS vs non-IS etc). For a while I was using a 28-105 2.8/5.6 zoom. My results would vary but I would spend a lot of time post processing in Photoshop. The last show I shot I would up trying out my 50mm 1.2. The end results were a lot more satisfying. Images were sharper and cleaner. Not only did I have a lot more keepers but I spent less time post processing. the reason, I was zooming in and out thus changing the fstop from 2.8 to 5.6. I took a few test shots to determine my settings and kept my shutter speed at 1/80, iso at 800 and the fstop stayed at 1.2. The shots are from a local band called “Low of the Low” and the results can be seen here:
http://bufftbone.smugmug.com/Music/Low-of-the-Low/Low-of-the-Low-OMalleys-8-09/9472524_TCzrA#635823347_ds6rA
September 23rd, 2009 at 8:27 am
Great post.
I’ve taken pictures in two concerts so far. First one was a total disaster, but the second one was much better, but I still have a lot to learn and these tips will be very helpful next time I go to a concert to shoot. Here’s the link to some of my pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gp-sachs/sets/72157621843020477/
September 23rd, 2009 at 9:52 am
ok
1st how did you get so close?
2nd most stadiums/events will not let you in with a DSLR!!! (WHY!!!)?
3rd how do you do it with out massive amounts of backstage passes and £’s to bribe the door men?
if there are ways of doing this please le me know
mikefendt79@googlemail.com
September 23rd, 2009 at 11:53 am
Good advice, but I don’t think the photos illustrate the concepts they’re accompanying.
if you want good concert photography advice and examples, check out ishootshows.com
todd’s written a piece that’s very similar to this.
September 23rd, 2009 at 1:52 pm
nice stuff :) you should have a blog on how to land a gig doing concert photos :)
September 23rd, 2009 at 2:11 pm
Well, the author is fortunate to be this close to the performer.
I wasn;t so lucky at a recent concert.
Was using my Canon SX10IS at max zoom (thats 560mm for 35mm film camera), shooting at ISO 800 or 1600 (sometimes to ISO3200). Had to switch to spot metering, or the bright and not so bright light plays havoc to my photo.
Here are a few samples.
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs225.snc1/7221_129475791714_725286714_2644703_1277550_n.jpg
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs225.snc1/7221_129475831714_725286714_2644709_5387858_n.jpg
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs225.snc1/7221_129889401714_725286714_2649985_1587057_n.jpg
I will gladly try again on this weekend, with IL Divo.
Enjoy.
September 23rd, 2009 at 2:41 pm
As I do the same work in Germany: in all points you are absolutely right! Especial rule 9 is normally one of the “forgotten” rules……. be nice and other people will be nice to you! Believe me, even if you are in hectic, it works!
best regards from Germany
Norbert
September 23rd, 2009 at 4:29 pm
A nice article. I would add the following:
1) Getting the exposure right.
The most successful concert photographers I know all shoot in manual mode. They rely entirely on the histogram and the screen to judge the proper exposure for the subject. Why? Because every automatic mode on the camera depends on the light meter, which, no matter if it’s set to Matrix/Evaluative or Spot will be overwhelmed by the venue lighting and fail you.
At many concerts, the lighting on the subject does not change very rapidly. The lighting around the subject changes all the time. Its important to know the difference since the huge majority of the photos a photo editor will run are those that are properly exposed for the subject.
Instead of relying on the meter and exposure compensation for every shot, expose manually making small adjustments for the changes in lighting.
2) Shoot RAW.
Shooting RAW solves two of the major problems found in concert photography, exposure and white balance. Even though I shoot several shows per week and have been published in every major music magazine in the country, I still rely on up to one (1) stop of exposure compensation in post in order to nail the shot. I also rely on white balance adjustments on almost every photo in order to correct the inaccurate color casts created by Auto White Balance. Every concert photographer should know that their histograms are only a reflection of their camera’s white balance at the time of capture. So, if your white balance is horribly wrong, so too will a regular reading of the histogram. If your photos is too red you should also account for your histogram being too red (or green or blue, etc).
3) Use constant aperture lenses.
Since shooting close to wide open is needed for all but arena shows, shooting a concert with a f/3.5-5.6 variable aperture lens doesn’t make a lot of sense. Every time you move the zoom, your exposure and depth of field changes. Sure, you can use Auto ISO or compensate with shutterspeed, but really, you shouldn’t rely on the camera’s meter or automatic modes at all (see first point).
Instead use prime lenses or zoom lenses with constant f/2.8 aperturesl; this way, your focal length has nothing to do with your exposure. Although the f/2.8 zooms made by Nikon and Canon are very expensive, there are decent third party alternatives from Tokina and Tamron for every major brand.
4) Use the center AF point.
If you think center weighted compositions are boring but can’t get your camera to focus in low light using the outer points, it’s probably because they aren’t as accurate as the center. In every camera body I can think of, the center AF point is the most accurate. Instead of moving focus points consider using only the center AF point and focusing then recomposing before the shot. Sure, there is some shift in the focal plane, but it’s nothing compared to how out of focus your photo could be if one of the outer points decides to lock onto the mic stand or guitar head instead of the subject’s eyes.
Lots more info with examples here:
http://blog.photoshelter.com/corp/2009/07/how-to-take-the-worlds-best-co.html
and on my music photography blog:
http://www.onelouderphoto.com
Happy shooting everyone.
Chris Owyoung
The article I wrote this summer answers all of your questions:
http://blog.photoshelter.com/corp/2009/07/how-to-take-the-worlds-best-co.html
September 23rd, 2009 at 5:02 pm
I’d really love to shoot a live show, but I don’t think I will ever take a DSLR with me :)
Anyway, on this page I found a collection of pics I really loved:
http://www.brooklynvegan.com/archives/2009/08/arctic_monkeys_28.html
September 23rd, 2009 at 6:18 pm
It also helps if you’re a girl.
September 23rd, 2009 at 10:21 pm
Thanks for all your comments, everyone!
Chris, I completely agree about shooting in manual mode, shooting RAW, and constant aperture lenses. (I can see how what I wrote about compensating for exposure could be interpreted as “use exposure compensation”.) However, I personally don’t rely solely on the center AF point when there’s enough light to use others. I’m fortunate enough to have a handy 51 AF points on my Nikon, and as I frame for a shot of a relatively static subject I’ll often select the focus point closest to what I want to focus on. I find this minimises how far I have to swing the lens to recompose, and allows me to get more accurately framed shots, quicker. Great article and images on your blog, by the way.
Cheers,
Nyani
September 24th, 2009 at 12:33 am
These are nowhere near as awesome as the photos in this post, but I wanted to show some good (not great….definitely not great) photos that can be had at a concert with a point and shoot and even from far away.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ericsbinaryworld/129597522/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ericsbinaryworld/129597521/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ericsbinaryworld/491927491/
September 24th, 2009 at 12:56 am
That’s probably my best concert picture EVER: http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulosacramento/3735743030/in/set-72157621689419824/
September 24th, 2009 at 2:35 am
Very helpful tips. I love concert photography myself.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/servo101/sets/72157618729630010/
September 24th, 2009 at 3:34 am
I shoot alot of local and national acts and have been for several years now. I shoot about 4 shows per month sometimes more. Theh more you shoot the better you get. You can check out my work at myspace.com/nicole2112. I use a cheap Sony Alpha A100 and a 50mm f/1.7 with a ISO of 800 to 1600 and I do just fine with local bands in dark bars. I use a cheap Minolta 70-200 f/4.5 with an ISO of 200 to 400 for larger venues with lots of lights. I think I do alright with this and alot of the bands use my work.
September 24th, 2009 at 5:02 am
One more tip: wear black.
September 24th, 2009 at 12:03 pm
these photos are amazing. and awesome tips, thanks.
September 24th, 2009 at 1:09 pm
It’s like magic of light. Fantastic shot!
September 24th, 2009 at 8:32 pm
I never ever use flash unless I have a deal with the artist, but even then I prefer to use the lights at the show.
In Sweden we usually just get the three first songs at a show. If you have the possibility to go back to the other end of the room and use a zoom you sometimes get really great photos.
Other than that I usually try to use my 2.8 zooms and ISO 800-1600, often with exposure set down 2-3 steps.
My concertpic’s are at: http://allerby.com/dagens/category/konsertfoto/
September 25th, 2009 at 3:29 am
two camera’s:
APC-C size sensor with a 70-200mm 2.8
full frame with a 24-70mm 2.8 or 50mm 1.4
That way you can zoom right in on any of the action from across the stage or the background performers as well as capture anything happening right in front of you. Also, having a zoom lens on an APC-C sized sensor really helps if the stage is higher than normal and you have to stand back a bit. I’m short, so this happens a lot.
September 25th, 2009 at 1:25 pm
Great article, Nyani. Something I’d always like to do more of.
I don’t have too much experience, but I was invited to shoot a concert once which included Sloan, 54-40, and Hawksley Workman. I got a 80-200mm f/2.8L for the day and was thrilled with the quality. Here are a few of those shots:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/1283018942/in/set-72157601789447787/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/1282149041/in/set-72157601789447787/
And then one of the mariachis playing in Mexico: http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/2164327672/in/set-72157601789447787/
September 25th, 2009 at 11:27 pm
I’ve done a little bit of music stuff -> http://gtvone.com/gallery if you’re bored <- One thing I’ve stated doing recently, and this sounds weird, but if you’re shooting a big stage try it – Shoot with both eyes open. One eye focussing on the shot, one just open to catch movement / track anything exciting happening. It sounds weird, but once you’ve got it down it works well. The thing that I find most tricky when you’re starting out is that you never quite know what to expect… I shot all day at a festival and then shooting Metallica, the whole lighting set-up was completely different.. Than say, tonight, shooting Nate James at the Jazz Cafe in London – I know the venue and am mentally prepared… Don’t obsess over it – Like Nyani says, reel a few off, check them and then get on with it – You’ll have time to count your money when the deal is done.
One thing new music photogs ALWAYS forget – ENJOY IT! If you’re relaxed and in touch with the music, you’re going to get much better shots.
I love shooting music. totally.
Sime (dPS Community Manager)
September 26th, 2009 at 2:02 am
Very interesting! thank you!!
September 26th, 2009 at 4:55 am
First of all, great article. As a music photographer who’s done work for bands for the past 6 years, I found a lot of the information useful. Unfortunately, I think it only applies to one particular kind of situation.
The truth is, the MAJORITY is music photography is done at smaller shows, where you don’t get photo passes, where there is no press pit, where you don’t have the luxury of nice lighting or using a long lens.
if the editors are interested, I would love to do an article on smaller scale music photography, that might be a bit more accessible and relevant for at least some of the readers of the blog.
for an example of what i mean, please check out:
http://everyoneisdoomed.org/decipher/musicmain/index.html
September 26th, 2009 at 5:35 pm
Love the shot of Eli and of the woman. The lighting is beautiful, as are the expressions.
There’s nothing greater than capturing THE shot during a concert.
September 27th, 2009 at 3:30 am
AT IL Divo concert this evening and midway thru my fav song, the security came over and asked me to pack up my camera. He says that only “dummy” / PHD are allowed. I was using my Canon SX10IS, which unfortunately looked like a DSLR when fully extended. I was pissed off, and I showed him my camera upclose, saying that this is a “dummy” camera, “look, it cannto change lens”. He apologized and moved on, and I lost the chance to sing my fav song and my fav group. Grrrr
September 27th, 2009 at 3:38 am
just to add….
I was already being very nice, using my viewfinder, no flash (too far anyway), MUTE & no screen review.
Perhaps the only 2 items was the slight click sound and the red “write” blinking light, whenever a shot is made. This click sound is nowhere near the shutter crashing sound of a DSLR & is only heard if I am very very close to the camera (the camera is in MUTE mode).
Also, there were no signs saying “NO PHOTOGRAPHY ALLOWED” or anything. Or “NO DSLR allowed” signages.
September 27th, 2009 at 5:28 am
I took some shots from the local Rock bands,
I used my nikon D60
-Nikkor 18-55mm
-Sigma 70-300mm
Check it out–>http://www.flickr.com/photos/hussainshafei/sets/72157622334779101/
Let me know what you think.
Thanks.
September 27th, 2009 at 5:29 am
–> http://www.flickr.com/photos/hussainshafei/sets/72157622334779101/
September 27th, 2009 at 9:15 am
@Jimmy – A lot of the time security only know one thing for regular punters (make that two) :No Photos and Little Cameras: I came in just now from shooting Gang of Four, I arrived at the venue, the HMV in Kentish Town (London) and said hi to all as I shoot there often. Well, there were new guys down the front running the pit security. I was told “THREE PHOTOS, NO FLASH” …I looked at the guy with a “you’re joking, right?” and said “Three photos? You mean three songs” … Nope, the guy was serious – threee photos – I explained I usually whip off about 150 – 300 for a three song set, he didn’t flinch – THREE PHOTOS… I had to go find the head of security and ask him to sort it out… He did – he said to the new guy “These guys know what they’re doing, just let them get on with it” – Sometimes security only remember two things “no photos, small cameras” I appreciate security, but they’re not always 100% with it… if you get my drift
September 28th, 2009 at 2:17 am
@ Sime. They are OK to go by the book. But check and stop us, when tearing my ticket. Not when I am in the mist of enjoying the performance. If they have a list of models or photos mugs of “banned” cameras.
My friend who was further front, said that the guy in front of them with the Nikon DSLR was asked to pack his camera or pack & leave . That guy is really too much. I would complain the same as the shutter crashing sound can really irriate.
September 28th, 2009 at 5:21 am
My camera is too weak to do shots in dark places without long exposure, but I got this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/didmyself/collections/72157617781921381/
First Ignite it was a long time ago, 2nd NA – not so bad I thinh :)
September 30th, 2009 at 3:44 pm
Great article! I tried following some of these tips, but I guess you have to adapt to the lighting/space scenario depending on where you’re shooting. I took some shots of this band Caesar’s Palace (myspace.com/caesarsmusic) in Bangalore, India – check them out here: http://bit.ly/caesarsphotos
I used a Canon EOS 500D/Rebel T1i, with ISO 400/ISO 800, and had to bounce the pop-up flash off the ceiling by placing a business card in front of it at an angle. Would love to hear what you guys think of these pictures!
October 2nd, 2009 at 5:03 pm
Great Article. I guess I need more practice. I just received my Canon EOS Rebel XS and trying to figure out the best place to start. Hopefully I will be posting things soon for everyone’s thoughts. But be kind :-) I am new.
October 16th, 2009 at 4:35 pm
Awesome photographer and some awesome advice. Do not dismiss what he says here. Some of it might sound basic to more seasoned photogs, but the advice is truly golden. One thing, though, regarding ISO–sometimes (especially if you shoot small venues) the lighting will be really dim. Crank up that ISO as far as it’ll go. Honestly, iIt’s better to get the shot and have it be grainy than not be able to get the shot at all. And don’t trust your autofocus!
November 3rd, 2009 at 6:04 am
Congrats on a great article :)
I’ve been shoot live music for a few years now, been published in big press, signed to major agency, blah, blah, blah…
Some very good tips listed above, wear black – a good one (never really thought about it but I’ve always done it)
One thing that I don’t really get is the love of the 70-200/2.8, mine (Nikon 80-200/2.8 AF-S) spends most of it’s life in my bag, yeah there are times that it’s needed (over crowded pit, snapping from the side etc) but the vast majority of the time I’m swapping between primes (35/2, 50/1.4, 85/1.8)
Best tip that I can offer is to get out there and do it – talk to your local bands, find your local small venues, you can be sure you’ll find some very difficult lighting situations – don’t fear the grain, you’re capturing something alive and active – it’s not a fashion shoot! Learn to love your 50/1.8 (if you don’t have one then you are a fool)
Most importantly – enjoy it (you need to, there’s not a lot of money in it *grin*)
website
November 3rd, 2009 at 9:15 am
Hey, Darren – I’ve not seen you around? Probably because you’re always wearing black haha… Shoot V or Sonisphere or Benicassim or Glasto – you will immediately appreciate a long lens (Or Wembley or o2!!)
Sime
November 3rd, 2009 at 11:54 am
Sime – as I said, ‘yeah there are times that it’s needed’ and certainly is my weapon of choice when shooting sports (football, as in soccer) – even moreso than my 300
My first stadium gig was Bryan Adams (was also my first time in a pit) – started with an old sigma 70-210/2.8 but (being honest – mainly due to it’s crap AF speed) quickly changed to the 85/1.8
I’m not a prime nut (although I do crave the 200/2) and in general prefer the flexibilty of a good quality zoom but for music I really like to have the fast primes
Very much agree with your tip on keeping both eyes open :)
November 8th, 2009 at 2:44 am
Wonder about shooting at AV with f stop at 5.6 or higher. Your opinion would be nice, I liked your article.
November 10th, 2009 at 1:59 am
Roger – You could try Av (aperture priority) mode, do histogram checks and adjust your exposure compensation until you were happy with the histogram, but then every time you recompose you’d have to readjust your exposure compensation. Personally I think it would be faster and easier to stay in Manual mode. Also, in Av mode the camera will be varying the shutter speed to achieve correct exposure, which will result in blurry shots when it selects a shutter speed that is too slow to freeze motion in the scene you are shooting. (Of course, that’s OK if motion blur is what you want…)
Shooting at f/5.6 will be tough in in low light. You’ll have to push the ISO pretty high to get fast enough shutter speeds to freeze motion, especially with a longish lens. For example, the shot of Ben Harper above was at 1/100s, f/2.8 and ISO800. If I were at f/5.6 I would have to raise the ISO to 3200 to keep the same shutter speed, which would result in a pretty noisy shot unless you have a camera that has really good high ISO performance. Unfortunately, fast lenses really are the way to go with this type of photography.
November 20th, 2009 at 2:34 am
Awesome advice. Now if I can just figure out how to sing and take picture at the same time ;)
November 20th, 2009 at 7:49 am
Thanks for the comments. You can try AV f stop 2.8, ISO 1600, see what happens. You can bring the f stop up if it works. Watch your histogram. I shot a concert the other night in good light and it worked well. AV seems to have balance.
November 20th, 2009 at 8:25 am
Great tips on concert photography. When I shoot concerts I make sure that I do all my test shots during the openers. This is the best time to get a feel for your settings (i.e ISO, aperture, shutter speed). With that being said I then start photographing live music with one of those settings knowing that I will have to make adjustments – it’s just a great starting point.
I try and shoot with the lowest ISO and the highest f-stop but it seldom works. My setup of choice lately has been ISO 800 at about 1/125 (or less) with my 24-70 at f2.8. A really good lens for shooting shows that won’t break the bank is a 50mm prime 1.8.
Like anything else the more you shoot the better you’ll get and don’t be afraid to experiment – especially if you’re in a situation where you are not limited to taking photos for only the first three songs.
Thanks for the posts and keeping this thread alive. Cheers~ GRT2
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