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	<title>Comments on: Low Light Digital Photography</title>
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	<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography</link>
	<description>Discover how to use your digital camera with our Digital Photography Tips. We are a community of photographers of all experience levels who come together to learn, share and grow in our understanding of photography.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 21:33:36 -0500</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Lofts Conversions</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-50675</link>
		<dc:creator>Lofts Conversions</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 May 2009 23:32:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-50675</guid>
		<description>Great article! I used an old Olympus digital camera for night photos c5000. I would attach the camera to a cheap telescope from Lidl and take great pictures of the moon. If anyone interested I have put some on &lt;a href http://photobucket.com/elfinlink&lt;a href=&quot;http://photobucket.com/elfinlink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;night moon&lt;/a&gt;

Small aperture long exposure!
Regards!
&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roomsabove.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loft Conversions London&lt;/a&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great article! I used an old Olympus digital camera for night photos c5000. I would attach the camera to a cheap telescope from Lidl and take great pictures of the moon. If anyone interested I have put some on &lt;a href <a href="http://photobucket.com/elfinlink" rel="nofollow">http://photobucket.com/elfinlink</a><a href="http://photobucket.com/elfinlink" rel="nofollow">night moon</a></p>
<p>Small aperture long exposure!<br />
Regards!<br />
<a href="http://www.roomsabove.co.uk" rel="nofollow">Loft Conversions London</a></p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: MattGranz</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-39290</link>
		<dc:creator>MattGranz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 2008 08:22:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-39290</guid>
		<description>The one thing I didn&#039;t see in the article or in the comments, is that a flashlight (especially a high intensity one) is invaluable for getting your focus right on the subject matter.  Infinity can always work for a basic landscape but objects will not autofocus and a manual focus can be a real pain if you have no real ability to see what you are focusing on.  Otherwise a great article.  By the way, I find that ISO 200 
F3.8 
2-1/2 minute exposure 
25 mm.
is a great recipe for doing light painting at night.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The one thing I didn&#8217;t see in the article or in the comments, is that a flashlight (especially a high intensity one) is invaluable for getting your focus right on the subject matter.  Infinity can always work for a basic landscape but objects will not autofocus and a manual focus can be a real pain if you have no real ability to see what you are focusing on.  Otherwise a great article.  By the way, I find that ISO 200<br />
F3.8<br />
2-1/2 minute exposure<br />
25 mm.<br />
is a great recipe for doing light painting at night.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Matt</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-39076</link>
		<dc:creator>Matt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Dec 2008 15:57:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-39076</guid>
		<description>I had a question low light photography. What do you recommend metering off for these types of photos, like say, the example sea photo, what did you meter off of originally?

Thanks,
Matt</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I had a question low light photography. What do you recommend metering off for these types of photos, like say, the example sea photo, what did you meter off of originally?</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Matt</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: bryan</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-32901</link>
		<dc:creator>bryan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 31 Jul 2008 14:34:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-32901</guid>
		<description>it&#039;s a great articles, iam a newbies wait for more new articles from you.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>it&#8217;s a great articles, iam a newbies wait for more new articles from you.</p>
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		<title>By: Olivia Bell</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-32159</link>
		<dc:creator>Olivia Bell</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:01:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-32159</guid>
		<description>Landscape, waterscape... anything other than portraits I don&#039;t feel comfortable with. This article has really helped me. Thank you :D</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Landscape, waterscape&#8230; anything other than portraits I don&#8217;t feel comfortable with. This article has really helped me. Thank you :D</p>
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		<title>By: Jamie</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-23371</link>
		<dc:creator>Jamie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Mar 2008 12:34:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-23371</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the tips. My first outdoor shoot at night once the weather warms up here is going to be at night, so stumbling upon this article is ver timely for me.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the tips. My first outdoor shoot at night once the weather warms up here is going to be at night, so stumbling upon this article is ver timely for me.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Nuno</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-23179</link>
		<dc:creator>Nuno</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Mar 2008 10:41:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-23179</guid>
		<description>&quot;Simple! Just the basic of photography.&quot;
That&#039;s true.
The basic of photography. 

Nice blog. :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;Simple! Just the basic of photography.&#8221;<br />
That&#8217;s true.<br />
The basic of photography. </p>
<p>Nice blog. :)</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: dhanasekar</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-23092</link>
		<dc:creator>dhanasekar</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Feb 2008 16:51:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-23092</guid>
		<description>good and i want suggest one thing, yes if i want take picture in low light &#039;never use zoom lens or tele lens, i used only block wide lens it gives great depth and avoid nois also. And one more important, dont be tens; work with cool.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>good and i want suggest one thing, yes if i want take picture in low light &#8216;never use zoom lens or tele lens, i used only block wide lens it gives great depth and avoid nois also. And one more important, dont be tens; work with cool.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Lou Ann</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-23088</link>
		<dc:creator>Lou Ann</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Feb 2008 14:54:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-23088</guid>
		<description>Washington, DC is another city where you technically need to get a permit to use a tripod.  Police are inconsistent about enforcing this law.  I have used a tripod there without a problem, but only at low-tourist times and only when I am sure to stay out of the way.  I have heard of lots of people who have had problems with tripods in DC...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Washington, DC is another city where you technically need to get a permit to use a tripod.  Police are inconsistent about enforcing this law.  I have used a tripod there without a problem, but only at low-tourist times and only when I am sure to stay out of the way.  I have heard of lots of people who have had problems with tripods in DC&#8230;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: My Camera World</title>
		<link>http://digital-photography-school.com/low-light-digital-photography/comment-page-1#comment-23085</link>
		<dc:creator>My Camera World</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Feb 2008 14:11:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/low-light-digital-photography/#comment-23085</guid>
		<description>RAW vs Jpeg

The Camera Raw format is the direct light data hitting the image sensors with only minimal processing applied (Bayer algorithm). Any changes that are performed to the RAW file through RAW editors add what they call a sidecar file, which records those changes. The RAW file is never changed not matter what you do. You can always go back to the original version and start over.

Every time you save a jpeg image there is some loss of quality, even if it is to rotate file.

Camera RAW sensor can depending on the type of camera record 12 or 14 bits of data vs jpeg which only has 8 bit. This only valid if you are doing extensive image enhancement to tones or colours that stretch their original range. In this scenario jpegs may cause banding in colours  or msiised tones and should not in RAW unless to extreme.


Because RAW files have extra data available then normally you are able to recover some blown highlights, but not normally more than 1 stop and even then sometimes one of the colour channels may be clipped a bit if highly saturated colour 

For most camera images the biggest advantage is that eh White Balance (WB) can be set in the RAW editor and is not permanent as with Jpeg image. It is so easy to change the colour tone of your image form warmer to cooler.

The first image show in blog article how I made the snow more blue.
http://niels-henriksen.blogspot.com/2007/12/my-winter-snow-capped-friends.html




The down side is very large files my RAW files are 15MB each whereas my jpeg tend to be about 3-4MB and therefore this eats up memory card space quickly or the hard drive storage.

Also you need a RAW editor (some are free) and a workflow that allows to maximize the benefits of 16bit workflow like Adobe CS.

There are even books just devoted to RAW  processing.



Here are a few good technical articles from the web.

http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/u-raw-files.shtml

RAW vs Jpeg
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/raw_vs_jpg.shtml


Primer RAW format
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/RAW-file-format.htm

 
Thom Hogan Quick &amp; Dirty Guide to RAW
http://www.bythom.com/qadraw.htm



Niels Henriksen</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>RAW vs Jpeg</p>
<p>The Camera Raw format is the direct light data hitting the image sensors with only minimal processing applied (Bayer algorithm). Any changes that are performed to the RAW file through RAW editors add what they call a sidecar file, which records those changes. The RAW file is never changed not matter what you do. You can always go back to the original version and start over.</p>
<p>Every time you save a jpeg image there is some loss of quality, even if it is to rotate file.</p>
<p>Camera RAW sensor can depending on the type of camera record 12 or 14 bits of data vs jpeg which only has 8 bit. This only valid if you are doing extensive image enhancement to tones or colours that stretch their original range. In this scenario jpegs may cause banding in colours  or msiised tones and should not in RAW unless to extreme.</p>
<p>Because RAW files have extra data available then normally you are able to recover some blown highlights, but not normally more than 1 stop and even then sometimes one of the colour channels may be clipped a bit if highly saturated colour </p>
<p>For most camera images the biggest advantage is that eh White Balance (WB) can be set in the RAW editor and is not permanent as with Jpeg image. It is so easy to change the colour tone of your image form warmer to cooler.</p>
<p>The first image show in blog article how I made the snow more blue.<br />
<a href="http://niels-henriksen.blogspot.com/2007/12/my-winter-snow-capped-friends.html" rel="nofollow">http://niels-henriksen.blogspot.com/2007/12/my-winter-snow-capped-friends.html</a></p>
<p>The down side is very large files my RAW files are 15MB each whereas my jpeg tend to be about 3-4MB and therefore this eats up memory card space quickly or the hard drive storage.</p>
<p>Also you need a RAW editor (some are free) and a workflow that allows to maximize the benefits of 16bit workflow like Adobe CS.</p>
<p>There are even books just devoted to RAW  processing.</p>
<p>Here are a few good technical articles from the web.</p>
<p><a href="http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/u-raw-files.shtml" rel="nofollow">http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/u-raw-files.shtml</a></p>
<p>RAW vs Jpeg<br />
<a href="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/raw_vs_jpg.shtml" rel="nofollow">http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/raw_vs_jpg.shtml</a></p>
<p>Primer RAW format<br />
<a href="http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/RAW-file-format.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/RAW-file-format.htm</a></p>
<p>Thom Hogan Quick &amp; Dirty Guide to RAW<br />
<a href="http://www.bythom.com/qadraw.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.bythom.com/qadraw.htm</a></p>
<p>Niels Henriksen</p>
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