3 Basic Rules for Great Candid Photography

[PhotoBlazr]

This post is intended to outline 3 tips on taking better candid photographs.

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Candid photography is the art of consistently shooting pictures of people in natural unposed moments and actions. Candid moments can often capture the unique moments that reflect the true nature of the subjects compared to what posed photographs portray. So instead of a photo of the family standing in a row looking surprised by a flash, a candid photo will catch them all laughing together in a tender happy moment.

The type of candid photography we'll delve into here will be the documentary/photo-journalistic kind, where we want to capture people acting naturally or caught in unique and photographic moments. This style of photography is useful not only when shooting weddings, events, or gatherings, but also when shooting natural portraits and street photography.

Let's outline 3 simple rules that can help you capture people in natural candid moments:

1. Blend in and be forgotten:
   
   Your objective at this point is to be like a ninja and become 'one with the furniture'
   
   Now this doesn't mean you should stand in a corner hiding with your camera. I actually mean the exact opposite - get out there and be seen. For example, say you're shooting a wedding, you want the guests to get so used to seeing you photographing them, that they begin ignoring the fact that you're photographing them and instead act as if you're not there. This will let you catch those natural candid moments that can be truly unique.
   
   
   
   

   

   
   
   
   
   This is sometimes easier said than done but blending in and being part of the background is essential. Remember, that people will often freeze up or pose when they see a camera pointed in their direction. What many photographers mistakenly do to avoid being seen is to shoot surreptitiously, hiding the fact that they are taking a photograph. The problem with this is that you will often end up with a shot that is either not in focus or not composed properly or worst of all shows no connection to the subject in any way. Many photographers think a zoom lens can help them capture candid photos but I don't like this method much and don't advocate it unless you're paparazzi.
   
   Instead, try a tactic many a photographer has used when they first got their camera, which is to keep shooting pictures of people until they forget about you (or get tired of you like your spouse and kids did! ).
   
   Don't intrude into people's spaces, but don't hide the fact that you're photographing people. Now of course at first people will pop into their 'pose smile', or freeze up when they see you, but you will find that in a very short while, people will start taking you and your camera for granted. You'll become part of the background and that's when you can now truly blend in, and start looking for those natural moments and actions.
   
   



2. Watch, wait, be patient:
   
   Now that you've blended in, the next step is all about patience grasshopper.
   
   Remember in rule 1 where I said you should actually be out in the middle of the crowds photographing people, instead of hiding away? Well, this is useful because now you need to be able to connect with your subjects so you can watch them and predict their actions beforehand to truly capture those peak photographic moments.
   
   Many times if you're following a conversation for example, you can tell just before someone is about to burst into laughter, so be ready before it happens. Often, you'll need to watch a group of people for a few minutes before they do something really interesting, so don't just take a shot and move on. Hang about, partake in the conversation if you can, and then be ready to capture the really unique moments.
   
   Many photographers don't have the patience to wait for reactions that are truly unique and interesting, but often if you wait long enough, something photographic will happen. Look around you, and you'll see people going through a range of fun and interesting emotions and actions.
   
   

   

   
   
   This all does take a bit of practice, but a great place to try this is at first is at family functions or friends' parties, where you're already comfortable and already familiar with the people making it easier for your to predict their reactions and photographing them.



3. Keep your camera and lens kit small and compact as possible:
   
   This is a bit counter-intuitive for photographers since we love to get the biggest most expensive cameras we can afford. But a big professional SLR brings unwanted attention to you when shooting candids. Try using smaller cameras, such as a DSLR without a battery pack in conjunction with prime lenses. This is why Leica cameras are so popular for candid street photography.
   
   A compact kit won't alarm people allowing them to act naturally around you and forget about your camera. This is especially useful for candid street photography. Again remember - you don't need to hide the fact you're photographing people.
   
   
   

   

   
   

Together, these 3 rules should help you take candid photos in a much more consistent manner. Keep practicing and keep looking for those special moments while using good composition techniques and you'll find yourself taking some amazing unique photographs of people.


- by PhotoBlazr

[NimishC]

Nice tips indeed. However, shooting candid moments require you to be alert and won't give you time to change your camera's shooting modes as you might miss the moment. I would really appreciate if you could highlight which is the best shooting mode for candid photography.

[RichardTaylor]

Most of my "candids" are in the street (a lot of them whilst on vacation), and the head shots are almost always at an event like a parade or festival.

For the environmental candids I will be using a standard zoom lens lens (Canon 24-105 F4 IS L on a full frame camera)
ISO set high enough to give me an aperure/shutter speed around F11 @ 1/125
Centre focus point only active & and usually focus tracking active.
Evaluative (the whole scene) metering and I always shoot RAW.
Normally the camera will be set up as shutter priority and a shutter speed of 1/125. However I will set Aperture priority so that the lens is wide open , to isolate the subject from the background), and I will take what ever shutter speed I can get.
This means that I only just have to turn the mode dial, (without moving the camera from my eye, to go from a setup for a scene to a portrait setup.

Example: Environmental candids taken whilst I was having breakfast in a Cafe..
(1)

Camera: Canon EOS 5D
Exposure: 0.01 sec (1/100) + Canon 24-105 F4 L IS lens
Aperture: f/18 (just to give me a bit more DOF
Focal Length: 24 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Bias: -2/3 EV (to stop blowing out the street highlights as it was a very high contrast scene).
Flash: Flash did not fire

(2) A few minutes earlier.


Camera: Canon EOS 5D + Canon 24-105 F4 IS L lens
Exposure: 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture: f/10
Focal Length: 95 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Flash: Flash did not fire

If I am taking headshots it will be, nowadays, a Canon 135 F2 lens on a 1.6 crop camera.
Will mostly be shutting aperture priority with the lens wide open. ISO will be set to give me a minimum shooting speed of 1/200-1/300 however if the lighting is strong I will be shooting at very high shutter speeds (it doesn't really matter).Focus will be single shot for again centre focus point only active.

Exampes from a street festival.
(3)


Camera: Canon EOS 40D + Canon 135 F2 L lens
Exposure: 0.001 sec (1/1600)
Aperture: f/2.0
Focal Length: 135 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Exposure Bias: -2/3 EV
Flash: Off, Did not fire

and

(4) Being open and seen may get you a nice smile from a stall holder.


Camera: Canon EOS 40D + Canon 135 F2 L Lens.
Exposure: 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/2.0
Focal Length: 135 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Flash: Off, Did not fire


Keep in mind if your camera has custom functions you may be able to go from one setup to another setup by just a twist of a knob.

Hope this helps.
Richard

[PhotoBlazr]

Great question Nimish and great points Richard.

I shoot in Aperture Priority mode pretty much 99% of the time, using matrix metering and auto-focus modes.

I find this allows me to concentrate on composition while taking away most of the hassle of determining exposure on the fly. I do know my camera controls well enough that fine adjustments (such as exposure compensation) can be executed quickly when needed (and I learnt that by forcing myself to shoot in full manual mode for a few years).

It really comes down to practice - after a while this will become second nature

[Athas_orm]

Don't people mind you photographing them in the street? I'd feel very awkward about doing street photography.

Don't you need a model release form?

Where could I find the legal ramifications for the UK. Oh and lovely photographs. I think this truely is the best way to photograph people.

[wal]

Great tips and discussion.. thanks. I also find shooting in aperture priority best in candid.

[RichardTaylor]

@Athas_orm
For the UK you may find this of interest.
Photographers Rights And The Law In The UK - the law and photography

Quote.
"Don't people mind you photographing them in the street? I'd feel very awkward about doing street photography. "

Pick your place & time. That's why I most often do it whilst I am a tourist (even in my home city) or a street fairs, parades etc. People are relaxed & having a good time.

[PhotoBlazr]

I truly try not to intrude on people and I'm very sensitive about how I act when I shoot strangers. If it's obvious someone doesn't want their photo taken, I move on without a second thought.

I think the times it might be awkward is if you're taking a photo of a stranger doing nothing that is photogenic. ie. The person is not interesting looking, or is not doing anything interesting in particular, or is not walking through a scene that could make an interesting image.

If you look for photogenic scenes (a street fair was mentioned above, or a sunset hitting the street with some interesting light for example, or say a worker carrying a large number of boxes in the middle of a busy street), you'll probably find most people are too busy to even notice you taking their photo.

[NimishC]

Thanks PhotoBlazr and Richard for the explanation.

[Athas_orm]

Originally Posted by PhotoBlazr

I think the times it might be awkward is if you're taking a photo of a stranger doing nothing that is photogenic. ie. The person is not interesting looking, or is not doing anything interesting in particular, or is not walking through a scene that could make an interesting image.

I guess I sometimes see people themselves looking in my opinion photogenic. I combination of thier clothes and faces and wrinkles, makes you feel like you know them and their lives even If their not doing anything extraordinary.

Last week I saw three Moroccan women walking down the street together, we have a large Moroccan community here. They weren't doing anything in particular appart from walking but I found the combination of ages, the fact that they were all in traditional garb and even their combination of heights to be appealing, in a photographic sense.

I supposed I could have taken a picture but Its just not me. If I'd gone up to them and said do you mind if I take your picture then I don't think I could gotten the same natural poses. Just three friends walking down the street.

I'm not explaining myself well. What I mean is that sometimes its just the person themselves that interests my eye. I don't know if I'll ever be able to capture that.