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Try qtpfsgui if you like open source software.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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And here's a list of some more free options, including the aforementioned Qtpfsgui.
But also, have you tried some DIY HDR with PSE by putting two or more images together as layers (using ~50% opacity on the top layer to align it up, then bring it back up 100%) and using the eraser to take away bits and pieces of the top layer that are under or over exposed. Start with the eraser at about 70% opacity and go to town.
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Sarah Bay Williams Author, The Digital Shoebox: How to Organize, Find, and Share Your Photos Peachpit Press, Sept. 2009 | sarahbaywilliams@mac.com | www.digishoebox.com |
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Thanks for the PSE tip
ill have to try that, i was trying a little today before i read this and i was having troubles getting the two images to be layers that i could overlay (im sorry that probably makes no sense) any help would be great thanks! thanks for the link to other free options ill look at those after i post this, thanks again!
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Sony A330 w/ 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 and 75-300mm F/4.5-5.6 |
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AH - yes, so:
- Open both or all images in PSE and Select All in one, which you can do with command A (Mac) or Cntrl A (Windows). - Then copy with command C or cntrl C. - Next, click on your other open file to bring it to the front and press command V or cntrl V for paste. - Now you should have two layers, one of each image, in one file. Your pasted image will be Layer 1 and the other will be the Background layer - if you can't see your Layers palette, go to Window > Layers. - You can save this file as a Photoshop file (.psd) to preserve the layers. - In your Layers palette select Layer 1 and change the opacity so you can see through it to move it around so that it aligns with the Background layer - unless of course you were working with two or more shots on a still tripod and they are already completely aligned, which is handy. - Then you can work your 70% or so eraser tool to cut out the over or under exposed areas. - When you are done, you can preserve the layers as the .psd file or save it as a tiff, or you can flatten the file (Layer > Flatten Image) and save as a jpeg or tiff. Hope that helps! Best, SARAH
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Sarah Bay Williams Author, The Digital Shoebox: How to Organize, Find, and Share Your Photos Peachpit Press, Sept. 2009 | sarahbaywilliams@mac.com | www.digishoebox.com |
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Building on the PSE tip.
Instead of using the Eraser to remove the bits of the top layer try using layer masks. It will make it much easier to go back if you go wrong or to tweak the final output until it looks just right. "Hang on a minute! PSE doesn't have layer masks." (I hear you cry) You can trick PSE into giving you layer masks. You can use a free plug in such as Elements+ or Grant's Tools if you want or you can just use a work arround in PSE. The work around is as follows: - Create an adjustment layer and position it below the layer you want to mask. Don't make any adjustments using the layer, just leave it empty. (You can use any adjsutment layer you want, I always use levels for some reason!) - Select both the adjustment layer and the layer you want to mask using ctrl click. - Press ctrl + G to group the two layers together. - The layer mask associated with the adjustment layer will now affect the image layer as well, allowing you to paint black on the adjustment layer to 'erase' the higher layer rather than using the eraser. To go back you can paint white. To erase at less than 100% opacity use a lower opacity brush or use grey instead of black. |
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Thanks again to both of you, i never knew i could do that in PSE5, anyways i do have one more question, i got the layers thing and painting stuff to work, but it seems like if i use a brush at say 30% opacity and use it over most of the area then stop and start painting again any areas i go over again become lighter again, is there any solution to this? Thanks!
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Sony A330 w/ 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 and 75-300mm F/4.5-5.6 |
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There is a freeware version of Photomatix called "Photomatix Basic". It is not all that powerfull because it uses the tone compressor method, but it is free and does not watermark. You can get it from the Photomatix website. Or, you can do the free trial (which never runs out) of Photomatix Pro, and it gets faintly watermarked. If you are a photography student you can get a 60-75% discount on Photomatix Pro.
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Canon 50D: Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM , Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS, Photoshop CS5 |
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