SB 800 TTL FP Mode

[Heaterguy]

On his blog, Michael Hagen has in his publishing section a list of settings for various Nikon Cameras for different types of photography. In particular, for the D-300 he advocates utilizing 1/320s (auto FP) for Nature, Portrait and Sports Action photography but not for Point and Shoot photography.
I don't understand the advantages of using this synch speed for portraits or nature photography.
Can someone break it down in layman's terms for me?
Here is the link. Go to the near bottom of the page for the various set-ups:
http://www.outthereimages.com/publishing.html

[zona5101]

I opened the D300 pdf under this link: "Click Icon to Download Nikon D300 Setup Guide pdf"

On all 4 tables the value for "e1 Flash Sync Speed" is "1/320s (Auto FP)"
This value is found in the left column "Custom Setting Menus" in alpha order.
I am not sure where you are referencing.

[acedrew]

Those settings appear to be just parameters for the system, it's telling the camera (in auto or aperture priority mode)(with auto FP enabled) to use up to a 1/320 speed.
Read This: Nikon CLS Practical Guide: 10. Auto FP High Speed Sync Explained

Andrew Rodgers
Perfected Perspectives -- Photography by Andrew Rodgers | Andrew Rodgers (acedrew) on Twitter | Login | Facebook

[inkista]

No idea why those specific settings are chosen, but my guess would be that it's a compromise setting between losing power to high-speed sync, but also having a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action.

The D300's maximum sync speed is 1/250s.

The shutter speed in your camera is mechanically controlled by two shutters (front and rear), and the gap in between them as they sweep across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller that gap becomes. 1/250s is the fastest shutter speed you can use with flash, where the entire sensor will be uncovered at one time. For faster shutter speeds, the gap will be smaller than the sensor, and it will travel across the frame. However, a flash burst is typically far shorter than your shutter speed, so if you're shooting above your maximum synch speed, you'll get black bands across the top or bottom (or both) of the frame, because only the gap between the shutters was illuminated by the flash burst.

Using FP mode puts your flash into high-speed synch mode, where the flash gives out timed bursts that match the shutter "gap" going across the sensor, so the entire sensor is still illuminated. But this bursting costs you power (and range) on the light, because the capacitor can only pull charge/current from your batteries so quickly. The faster you push the shutter speed in FP mode, the faster it's got to pulse, and the less power you've got to work with from the flash.

[Heaterguy]

You've given me a lot to absorb. I have been shooting with it at those settings with no negative results. However, I don't see where it is a benefit to my exposures.
Thanks for the input.

[Heaterguy]

Originally Posted by acedrew

Those settings appear to be just parameters for the system, it's telling the camera (in auto or aperture priority mode)(with auto FP enabled) to use up to a 1/320 speed.
Read This: Nikon CLS Practical Guide: 10. Auto FP High Speed Sync Explained

Andrew Rodgers
Perfected Perspectives -- Photography by Andrew Rodgers | Andrew Rodgers (acedrew) on Twitter | Login | Facebook

Thanks. I'll take the time to review them.

[Heaterguy]

Originally Posted by zona5101

I opened the D300 pdf under this link: "Click Icon to Download Nikon D300 Setup Guide pdf"

On all 4 tables the value for "e1 Flash Sync Speed" is "1/320s (Auto FP)"
This value is found in the left column "Custom Setting Menus" in alpha order.
I am not sure where you are referencing.

In each table it is in the right hand column.