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I really want to take my flash photography to a new level… I’m kindof feeling trapped in what I’m currently doing. (sure there’s always room for improvement within these confines)… but I just don’t know how to go to the next level so to speak.
This might be a stupid question.. because I havn’t “studied” the entire strobist syllabus.. i’ve taken key bits here and there and become self taught really. I’m using manual mode 100% of the time,.. so I’m confident in what I’m currently doing. For now I set things up, take a few shots and if I think something is too bright, too dim, I adjust to get what I want.. and I get pretty decent results IMHO. But my stuff teeters more on the creative side. As for portraits and “studio set-ups”. I want to (just for my own education) go into “stops” light ratio’s EG. side of face 1 stop darker than the other etc etc etc. … this is how I figure I can “polish” my portrait work a bit more and take it to the next level.. …possibly ![]() EG. If I want side of face “A” 1 stop brighter than side “B” The simplistic method is setting Strobe “A” to ¼ and strobe “B” to 1/8… …ok that’s easy (assuming both strobes are the same, with same modifier and identical distance from the subject. How on earth is this achieved when the strobes I have are different models, will potentially have different modifiers and at different distances from the subject.. If it was me answering someone elses question my first instinct would be to say.. you need a flash meter.. and I think that’s the answer..…Is there another way… or is that really my only option. (i'm not particularly interested in going TTL or anything... i really like manual and i already have everything for it) Any opinions, comments, suggestions… most welcome Any opinions on how to improve from here in general … (stupid but necessary question)… also appreciated.
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http://www.flashpointphotography.co.nz/ |
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Do like me: chimp like a monkey in a banana tree.
Do some tests before your model comes in with something similar. See what works. Experiment. Once you get a good idea of how the scene is affected by certain things, you'll be able to figure it all out on the fly. It's just like photography: 50% learning, 40% trying, 10% sheer luck.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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Thanks gents.
Zona.. nice idea about the book.. I keep them in my head mainily.. its probably a good idea to document more thoroughly each set-up and power settings etc etc I’ll see how much a meter will set me back.. might be a good move Adam.. thanks.. practice practice practice. i do chimp allot.. maybe i should keep chimping until its perfect.. rather than settling for "nice".
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http://www.flashpointphotography.co.nz/ |
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Just remember: the sound effects are entirely optional. Some models can get... a little freaked out.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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haha.. that.. and the scratching is a bit much
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http://www.flashpointphotography.co.nz/ |
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If you don't have a flash meter, and really like doing math, you can always use your flashes' guide numbers to calculate the f-stop. This way, you can have flashes with differing output capabilities, set at different power levels, placed at different distances. You can place and calculate each flash individually to get the desired f-stop on your camera
Check your flash manual(s) for any tips on manually calculating beyond the basic formula. If you use any modifiers (umbrella, pan reflector, soft box, etc...) you'll need to test and find out how many stops (or increments of a stop) each one eats up and adjust for that amount in your calculation. |
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