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In numerous pictures I have the effect of light on the top and dark on the bottom. I would assume this is misuse of my flash, a Canon 580EX II. This was my second time using the flash, so I can use all the tips and advice I can get.
I was trying to bounce the flash off the ceiling. However this house is a loft and beam house and the ceiling is all over the place. Some spots its only three feet or so above and in other spots its seven feet and in the great room its sixteen feet or so. I had the same issue in all rooms. In the great room I didn't try to bounce off the ceiling though. I aimed the flash about 5ft above the subjects heads. Also there are angles to the ceiling. I couldn't get far enough away from the subjects to have the flash straight on. I used the diffuser that comes with the flash. Is this a common mistake for beginners? and how to I correct it? Thanks in advance, Des
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/manning_photography/ I feel as though I look like Kelvin Swaby when singing in my car, when in fact I don't, not even close. |
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For one, your power is far too low: i know with my system I have to set +1 2/3 over the TTL (flash EV) to get something im happy with. The other issue is you're trying to get full-body shots, and thats not likely to work very well. Try doing a medium shot, or even a bit tighter.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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I did some headshots and they looked great, so I would have to agree with you. Although there would have to be some way to get a full body shot, no?
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/manning_photography/ I feel as though I look like Kelvin Swaby when singing in my car, when in fact I don't, not even close. |
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Aiming the flash above your subjects' heads will result in most of the bounced flash hitting their backs. What will hit their fronts will be the edge of the beam from the speedlight, which will be stronger high on the subject than lower down.
This is a technique called "feathering", which can be quite a nice trick to have in your bag, as it's a way to draw attention to your subjects' faces. It can also be used to get even light on a larger group, since the light on the nearer people will be reduced by feathering and the light on the farther people will be reduced by inverse-square-law reduction. If you want even light, widen your beam spread and aim more directly at your subjects (preferably from off camera so that you get some modeling). Also, moving your flash farther back will also give you more even light at the cost of flash power.
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Thank you for the advice and wisdom Doug.
I think (think being a key word) I now grasp why it went wrong. Although I am going to have to wait a bit to get another flash so I can use off camera flash. All in good time I guess. Thanks again guys.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/manning_photography/ I feel as though I look like Kelvin Swaby when singing in my car, when in fact I don't, not even close. |
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you are also bouncing light off of a non-neutral surface, throw white light at orange walls and you get orange light back on your subject. It is incredibly hard to correct that in post processing.
If you camera is on your body, look at a difusser like Gary Fong or make a DIY version (google it) |
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I will look into a diffuser because I know the one on the flash does nothing ....
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/manning_photography/ I feel as though I look like Kelvin Swaby when singing in my car, when in fact I don't, not even close. |
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Ohh pickles! I had one there when I took the pictures too! I had used it other places but never thought........
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/manning_photography/ I feel as though I look like Kelvin Swaby when singing in my car, when in fact I don't, not even close. |
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