Diffuser/Reflector question

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

As mentioned in a previous thread I have been talked into taking wedding photos for a friend's son. They're well aware of my limitations but I am doing as much research as I can on the subject. This tree is one of the places they have chosen to have photos taken. As you can see, if it's a sunny day and it's highly likely to be, there are plenty of shadows. What is the best way to overcome this? And especially if it a close up shot of the couple. From what I've been reading would a diffuser held up to cast shade over their faces work? But then wouldn't the background be blown? And if it's a full body shot would my external flash(on my camera) directed at a white reflector work? This photo was taken with my shade WB selected, it looks a little too warm to me, any comments?



I watched a wedding take place in this park a couple of weekends ago. They were out in the open on a very sunny day(as we will be also) and the photographer had a diffuser umbrella with the external flash attached inside. The outside of the umbrella was directed at the couple on the offside to the sun. I take it this is to help with shadows on the face and body.

Basically I'm trying to decide what I need in the way of diffusers and reflectors; I've been looking at one of those 5 in 1 reflector/diffusers(can't decide if 80cm or 110cm is better or if round opposed to oval is good) and also a diffuser umbrella as mentioned above. I know I'll have my work cut out for me to learn to use them and can make more of a hash of it if I get it wrong but I'm willing to buy and practice before hand. I am hoping somebody will be able to point me in the right direction without it being too complicated. Thanks for any suggestions.

[autofocus]

What you have here is dappled light which can be very unflattering on your subjects..especially on their faces. You'll probably have to play around with how you position them to avoid that as much as possible..preferably, all together. Careful use of a scrim (diffuser) and/or flash, and/or reflectors will probably help. I would suggest for you to get the bigger 5 way reflector..especially if needed for two people. Probably should get two of them because you can't diffuse and reflect at the same time with only one..obviously

[BigFuzzy]

I can't remember, but do you have (at least) a flash?

That's one of the major steps towards controlling differing levels of exposure.. ie expose for a balanced background and flash for a well exposed subject.

Reflectors help.. but flash is still your best tool as far as I can tell.

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

Thanks Autofocus, that's a great help. I figured the bigger the better.
Yes BigFuzzy(this is the REAL BigFuzzy isn't it?) I now have an external hot shoe flash for my Sony. Arrr-haa, lightbulb moment, I need to practice, expose for the background, flash the people!...................that should make them smile!

[BigFuzzy]

Originally Posted by FlyingKiwiGirl

Thanks Autofocus, that's a great help. I figured the bigger the better.
Yes BigFuzzy(this is the REAL BigFuzzy isn't it?) I now have an external hot shoe flash for my Sony. Arrr-haa, lightbulb moment, I need to practice, expose for the background, flash the people!...................that should make them smile!

haha yeah, I'm back.
Yeah, a quick easy lesson in Manual when using flash:
shutter speed controls the ambient light (ie background)
aperture controls the flash, just make sure you're shooting your flash in manual as well and know how to change the exposure on your flash (ie 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8th etc) to get it nice and balanced.

With that scene (and only one flash), I'd expose for the bright stuff behind the trees, use that shutterspeed (while in manual) and then fire off a shot with the camera set at f/8 with the people in front of the tree and see how it looks.

If the flash is too bright you need less light so smaller aperture (big f/stop number). If too little light, larger aperture (small f/stop) and if you hit the widest aperture you can use, pump up the ISO and see how that goes (though beware ISO affects everything so you might have to adjeust your shutter speed now).

Yes, this is very quick and over simplified, but it's something you can start practicing with and hopefully figure it out a bit. Good luck!

[BuddhaPi]

Do not be fooled by impersonators!

[Doug Sundseth]

Note that ISO and aperture affect both flash and ambient. Shutter speed affects only ambient. Flash power and distance from flash to subject affect only flash.

I'd recommend dialing in the background with the usual exposure triangle adjustments as BigFuzzy (or whoever) mostly suggested. Then adjust flash power, distance, and modifiers (umbrella, softbox, strip light, whatever) until the subjects look good.

Remember that with a diffused flash (assuming you're not using a bare flash head) closer is softer and that half the distance is two stops brighter (inverse square law).

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

Bloody hell, this is now getting seriously complicated. How the heck do you manage to remember everything. I'm going to have to have those little flash cards to refer to Thanks though, I shall start practicing. Luckily the tree is about 200 steps away and I have family that are wanting a family portrait. Guinea pigs.

I'll come back if I can't make head nor tail of anything. Thanks again everybody.

[autofocus]

I'm not sure of the Sony product lineup, but if your flash supports TTL you can leave the flash on TTL while exposing manually for the background, and let the unit calculate the amount of flash needed for the subject. Just remember that you'll be limited to the camera's shutter sync speed, possibly 1/200 or 1/250, and you don't want a shutter speed faster than that. (check your manual) Always good to do a test shot, and check your histogram. After checking your test shot you can always dial the flash power up or down as needed.

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

Originally Posted by autofocus

I'm not sure of the Sony product lineup, but if your flash supports TTL you can leave the flash on TTL while exposing manually for the background, and let the unit calculate the amount of flash needed for the subject. Just remember that you'll be limited to the camera's shutter sync speed, possibly 1/200 or 1/250, and you don't want a shutter speed faster than that. (check your manual) Always good to do a test shot, and check your histogram. After checking your test shot you can always dial the flash power up or down as needed.

Yes my flash supports TTL- I have to keep checking what that means, TTL= flash measures the light from the subject that is reflected through the lens
I'm not sure I understand why I'll be limited to1/160(my camera's sync speed) and won't want a faster shutter speed, which I can get by using high-speed sync. Over exposed? Actually I'm not sure I've got a handle on this at all