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You're probably too close to the background for starters.
As long as the background is on the right edge (not blown), you're good. Tweak it in post (levels). If you blow the background, you also might get some CAs along the edges of your subject. It also looks like your fill level is too high, move the light back or dial it down.
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JamieDePould.com + OneYearPhoto.com Nikon D300, D700, Sony NEX5n Zeiss 2/25; 1.4/50; 1.4/85 Please read the rules before posting a critique thread. Rules here. |
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BUT, the reason they are this close now is because after all my epic failures yesterday I started moving in closer, and have had things dialed all over the map. I'm to the point where I'm quite confused. Also, are you saying the background appearing a bit grayish when I open in RAW and process is normal? I'm trying to fix it there, and I get the impression your saying leave it alone and fix it with a levels layer??? Sorry for so many questions but I really would like to wrap my head around this concept properly once and for all!
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If you can get your RGB values around 250 when you mouse over in PS, it'll be a nice looking white. Simply put, when shooting high key, leave yourself some headroom. ![]() IIRC, there's 3-4 stops difference between the key light and the background light. Now, I didn't do a great job in post with this, but it's right about where you want it coming out of the camera. The bg may be a touch dark, and her right (camera left) shoulder is nearly clipping. The important part is that all of the data is good: no clipping, good signal-to-noise. Edit: that was lit with four speedotron heads: two large reflectors with diffusion on the bg, key was a beauty dish with gobo, and the fill was ... something.
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JamieDePould.com + OneYearPhoto.com Nikon D300, D700, Sony NEX5n Zeiss 2/25; 1.4/50; 1.4/85 Please read the rules before posting a critique thread. Rules here. Last edited by jdepould; 08-27-2011 at 02:22 AM. |
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The key to the white background is space and ratio. A good 3 stops over your key should work great if you have a lens that doesn't produce a lot of fringing. Then get you subject away from the background and light it with a totally different set of lights.
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My Pentax Photo Gallery | My 500px | My Photo Blog | My Picasa Albums K-5, K20D, Pentax DA 15mm f/4, Sigma 85mm f/1.4, SMC 50mm f/1.4, DA 18-55mm WR, Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8, SMC M 135mm f/3.5, Vivitar Auto-Extension Tubes, Metz 50 af-1, Yongnuo YN-560ii, Lumopro lp120, Cactus v4 |
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Yep, high key light is all about eliminating deep shadow (but not about overexposing). Lighting from on axis helps get rid of shadows from the cameras viewpoint.
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My Pentax Photo Gallery | My 500px | My Photo Blog | My Picasa Albums K-5, K20D, Pentax DA 15mm f/4, Sigma 85mm f/1.4, SMC 50mm f/1.4, DA 18-55mm WR, Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8, SMC M 135mm f/3.5, Vivitar Auto-Extension Tubes, Metz 50 af-1, Yongnuo YN-560ii, Lumopro lp120, Cactus v4 |
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My set-up is not ideal, as my studio space is on the main floor--where I want it for client purposes, but my office on the second floor. I've spent the better part of the day screwing around with these lights, taking pictures, leaving the studio to go to my office.....cussing when I open the file......return back to studio and repeat. I have many choice words I'm just too nice to repeat...lol. Tomorrow is another day.... Thank-you both for your help! |
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I wouldn't get hung up on high key or not high key. All you really want is decent product shots on a white background. That is very hard to get if the object is too close to the background because you blow out the edges with flare from the back if the lights are up high enought to give you that pure white BG and you get gray if the lights are too low.
As far as the front light (main+fill vs a single light) you have to decide if you want the shadows... the shadow helps define the object and give it some 3 dimensionality. Look through the types of shots you are trying to emulate and see if the lighting was flat or shadowed and set your lights accordingly. Last edited by zona5101; 08-27-2011 at 12:12 PM. |
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