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ok so im finally getting the hang of using my studio lights...my next thing is a wireless trigger...how is it that they work? we had one at the studio i worked at but was never explained how they worked...im sure its self explanatory but any advice or tips are greatly appreciated
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put one in the hotshoe, and one plugged into the sync socket on the head, power em up and shoot.
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My Pentax Photo Gallery | My 500px | My Photo Blog | My Picasa Albums K-5, K20D, Pentax DA 15mm f/4, Sigma 85mm f/1.4, SMC 50mm f/1.4, DA 18-55mm WR, Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8, SMC M 135mm f/3.5, Vivitar Auto-Extension Tubes, Metz 50 af-1, Yongnuo YN-560ii, Lumopro lp120, Cactus v4 |
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Errr... which kind of "wireless" are we talking here? I've never used studio strobes, but I read a lot.
![]() Most studio strobes have an optical slave built into them. They basically work on the principal that when the slave's sensor "sees" a flash burst, it then closes a circuit which tells the flash it's attached to to fire. So, in that case, you'll need some way to set off a "mastering" flash burst--your camera's pop-up flash may be useful for this, although you might have to set it into Manual mode (vs. a TTL mode) to avoid sending out a pre-flash signal which can confuse an optical slave. The weaknesses of optical slaves are they can be set off by any random flash burst, and they require line of sight. Radio triggers don't have these weaknesses, and have extended range and better reliability. If we're talking radio triggers, it's basically just a radio transmitter and receiver, passing along the sync signal from the Tx to the Rx. You put the transmitter on your hotshoe, and hook up the receiver to the light. Hooking up the receiver is generally done by a sync port. On most studio strobes, this sync port uses a 1/4" plug, like the kind you use for audio equipment, only it's mono, not stereo (one band on the tip of the plug, rather than two). The Strobist has a pretty good post on the basics of monolights.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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ok then this might make me sound really stupid but what is it i need to take the picture instead of hitting the button on the camera? My old boss told me it was called a wireless tigger... Im so used to just holding my camera and taking pictures but my hands have gotten so shaky so ive been using my tripod alot and i find that when i go to take the picture i throw it out of focus when i push down on the shutter button
Last edited by stephanie lyn; 05-03-2011 at 08:18 PM. |
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wireless remote shutter release...(they also make them wired).
example: http://www.adorama.com/CZDRXTRER.html Last edited by zona5101; 05-03-2011 at 08:26 PM. |
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Quote:
Thank you! |
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What camera do you have? If it's a Canon dRebel (xxxD model), 60D, 7D, or 5DmkII, there's a built-in infrared receiver for a wireless remote like the RC-1. The 3rd party ones are either clones of the infrared remotes, or are radio-trigger sets that have a receiver unit you hook up to the cable release port, and then the fire button is the transmitter in your hand.
I really like having the RC-1, since it's about the size of my thumb, and sits in a bracket on my camera strap, so I never have to remember to "bring it along" when I need it. It is, however, less useful behind the camera than in front of it. I tend to use a cable release when I'm working behind the camera.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 05-03-2011 at 08:49 PM. |
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well thats another thing i want it for, to take self portraits of my family and i, im always behind the camera but when it comes to family portraits i have to use the timer and i hate that lol nine times outta ten my head is cut off or im fixing my hair in the photos! I have an olympus e 420...
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