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Assuming that the shadow is actually sharp all the way out from the base to the tips of the antlers, to your eye for a start ? if so then is really a depth of field issue and your depth of field is too shallow As an experiment try casting the shadow onto a vertical background rather than onto the benchtop, that way at least you can be assured that the shadow if uniformly sharp for its full length, as the background is a uniform distance from the subject. You could then experiment with slowly angling over the background towards the horizontal and see what aperture (DOF) changes you have to do to keep subject and shadow in focus cheers Dave
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When All Else Fails -- Read The Instructions -- www.sydneystormcity.com www.electricskys.com Last edited by davenn; 04-03-2011 at 05:39 AM. |
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sharp shadow will be a result of the size of the light and the distance. To increase the sharpness of the shadow you need a small light source placed at distance. So shoot the sb700 with no light modifier (bare head flash). Point it directly at the subject. If necessary, minimize the amount of light that might be scattered in the environment using flags. Place the light as far from the subject to still get the proper exposure at the desired f stop while still keeping it direct enough to not throw light all around the room. Biasing towards a higher fstop will do two things, one help top ensure you have adequate depth of field to capture the subject and shadow in crisp focus, two, utilize the inverse square law to limit the amount of light reaching past the subject into the background area beyond the shadow...
Last edited by zona5101; 04-04-2011 at 12:59 PM. Reason: addition thought.. |
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Try moving it across the room, zooming it in all the way, and flaging it so it doesn't hit the walls.
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My Pentax Photo Gallery | My 500px | My Photo Blog | My Picasa Albums K-5, K20D, Pentax DA 15mm f/4, Sigma 85mm f/1.4, SMC 50mm f/1.4, DA 18-55mm WR, Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8, SMC M 135mm f/3.5, Vivitar Auto-Extension Tubes, Metz 50 af-1, Yongnuo YN-560ii, Lumopro lp120, Cactus v4 |
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That is why you can put a speedlight on a bug with no diffuser and and it appears like a large light source and soft, because it is huge in comparison to the bug. Use the same settings with a human and you will get hard shadows, because the human is bigger than the light source. The smaller the light, the harder the shadows. The larger the light the softer the shadows. You can move a light further back, up the output to keep the fstop the same, and get shadows. That is why in portraits, if we don't want shadows, we put the light as close to the subject as possible.
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Scott Last edited by scootermcq; 04-04-2011 at 10:50 PM. |
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