Overwhelmed with filter information

[rickp1]

Ok guys, I know I’m full of questions on here but I’m just trying to learn and understand .

So my next question is on Singh Ray filters again. I just picked up 2 of their ND filters and while reading about the others I came across the LB color intensifier, the LB Warming Polirizer, and LB Combo.

I have a polarizing filter which reduces glare and adds a bit of warming color intensity.

After reading about the LB color intensifier I got interested in it. It sounds like a good filter to have for sunny mid day picture taking. I have a polarizing filter which reduces glare and adds a bit of warming color intensity

So what is the big difference in these filters and warmers and combos, etc… they all seem to do the same thing for the most part. I just don’t want to buy twice if you know what I mean.

Like I posted a few days ago, I’m headed to the Grand Canyon and I want to be ready for some great picture taking.

Last thing, I keep reading that a lot of people hand hold their ND filters, Why? Why not mount on the Cokin system or other? The reason I'm coming up with is to further slide up or down to control how much of the filter to use and control light. Am i way off??

Thanks for your time guys and gals.

R.

[kencaleno]

Please don't become infatuated with equipment,or you won't be making photos.The more gear you carry,the less images you make. I use two filters-a 2 stop Neutral density filter(Not graduated) and a polarizer-all else I can perform in post processing if I need. My everyday walkaround kit:

My Nikon D50 camera
my 70-300 lens
my 18-55 lens
my 50mm f 1.8 lens
My Canon G3 for back up
spare batteries
Flashgun and 5 meter PC cord and batteries
my model releases
Hoods for each lens
polarizers
ND filter
Cheat sheet
tripod
5-in-one reflectors/black/diffuser set

Modus Operandi-My main camera (DSLR) is held in right hand with strap wrapped round palm-all else fits in a camera bag measuring 250mm by 150mm by 200mm deep.

Regards,Ken

[rh89]

Well I personally haven't found much use for any filters other than ND filters and polarisers. As Ken has said, everything else can actually be done in post processing without too much trouble.

I can't really answer your questions about the technicalities of filters - I own Cokin P series filters and my knowledge is limited to just that.

But about hand holding filters in front of lenses - sure, I do that quite a bit, especially with ultrawide lenses like the Sigma 10-20 where filter holders cause vignetting. The other reason would be that it's just a quick shot and I can't be bothered to screw on the adaptor.

[navcom]

The LB color intensifier creates a more saturated color environment. The LB warming polarizer is two filters in one...a warming filter and a polarizer. The LB combo is the LB warming polarizer and the color intensifier all in one (three in one).

Ken and rh89 are correct...you can simulate the results of these three filters using post production techniques. I've found that especially true with the color intensifiers...they are easy to duplicate by just increasing your saturation a bit.

That being said, it is also best to do as much as you can in front of the lens versus doing it on the computer. It will give you better image quality in the long run. While programs such as Photoshop and Lightroom (I love them to death!) are awesome and are getting better every day, there is still a bit better quality image achieved from a filter...such as better color rendition with less chance of degradation. There is always the chance of degrading your image when you post-process...even if it is only slightly. By using a filter, you are modifying the original light, not the captured pixels after-the-fact, thus giving you a better chance of high quality results.

I don't own any of the filters you mentioned, though as you know, I own quite a few Singh Ray filters. But I do know colleagues who do and they love them and swear by them. There is a lot here that boils down to personal taste and work flow. I personally prefer to stay as close to natural as I can and use post-production simply to sharpen, crop, and adjust slight saturation. I feel this increases my chances of getting more keepers and sellers.

[rpcrowe]

I like to simplify my shooting and since I switched over to digital, I no longer need to carry a load of filters. When shooting film, I used a plethora of filters because to loosely paraphrase a computer term "What you shot was what you got!"

I believe that a digital photographer can get away with only two or three filters (not counting a protection filter which you may or may not desire to use).

The three filters which are useful:

1. Circular polarizer (CPL) - this filter can provide effects which CANNOT be duplicated in photoshop such as reducing/removing reflections in windows or the surface of the water so that you can see what is behind the windows or under the water. The CPL will also remove/reduce reflections from foliage (especially wet foliage) and intensify the color. It will darken the skies and reduce or prevent burn sky burn out. IF YOU HAVE ONLY ONE FILTER - THIS IS THE ONE TO HAVE. Buy the very best you can afford since cheaper GND filters will degrade the imagery - sometimes with terrible effects.. It is often less expensive to purchase the CPL online than in your local store.

2. Neutral density filter (ND) - this filter will reduce the light levels without modifying the color. I use it most often to allow me to slow the shutter speed enough to blur running water and waterfalls. I wish that the "Canon Gods" would allow an ISO 25 capability with their 1.6x cameras. Then I could normally dispense with the ND filter. It is actually possible to combine two polarizing filters (one must be a circular polarizer and the other a linear polarizer) to achieve a variable neutral density filter. Linear polarizers cannot normally be used with auto focus or auto-exposure cameras so used ones are available dirt cheap.

Create Your Own Variable Neutral Density Filter

3. Graduated Neutral Density FILTER (GND) - the purpose of this filter is to reduce the exposure of the sky while leaving the foreground normal. It is most often used for landscapes and comes in a hard cut-off (which is good for seascapes because the horizon is strictly delineated) and a soft cut-off (which is better for landscapes). I blow hot and cold on using GND filters. The round GND filters are a PITA because the line of demarcation is directly through the middle of the filter. This means that you have to compose your image with the horizon centered or do some heavy cropping. Square GND filters either need a special adapter or you need to hand hold the filter in front of the lens. This causes problems with using a lenshood. You can achieve a lot of the effect of a GND filter through photoshopping. I don't carry a GND unless I am specifically shooting landscapes.

Since I have a lot of filters left from my film days, there are two general types which are fun to shoot with:

Star Filter: This filter causes the four, six or eight pointed stars (depending on the filter used) around lights. It can be absolutely great on images with a single or only a few light sources. It can be overwhelming when used on an image with a plethora of lights - such as a city scape. I would not necessarily buy a filter of this type but, it can be fun to use.

Diffusion filter and or fog filter: there are several types of filters of this type which give a bluring effect to the image. They are nice for portraits and give a dreamy effect to landscapes. Again, I would not necessarily purchase one of these but, I have a couple and they are fun to experiment with. One warning: "What you shoot is what you got!" You cannot sharpen an image that has been creatively blurred with one of these filters. You can often find a used one at a fairly low price. Since the object of this filter is to give a blurring effect, IMO, you don't need the best quality filter available.

Ladies Hose: if you stretch a piece of ladies stocking material over the front of your lens, it will give a softening effect and occasionally a star-like effect. It can also warm your image or give a ND-type effect; depending on the color of the recycled hosiery material. This is an old-time method.

You can achieve the above using Photoshop but, it is a lot easier and aften more fun to play with a filter of some type.

[klwinding]

I've always photoshopped all my photos and appreciate the input on what kind of filters would be useful. My son just purchased a big package of filters off eBay (cheap, yes, but fun to play with and to get my feet with) and I took them out for the first time this morning having no idea what to do with them. I ended up taking some photos of cat tails along a stream with what I thought was a polarizing filter but it turned out to be a diffuser.

I'm glad I was just experimenting or I would have been very disappointed - I wasn't expecting the blur. Fortunately, I also experimented with a sepia filter at the same time and that gave the yellows and greens of the grasses a very pretty tone. Otherwise, it would have been a complete loss...well, it still was a complete loss. (I posted two of the filter photos on Share Your Shots just for fun.)

Thanks for the advice. I'll be using the CPL and ND and experimenting with the GND. I'll play around with the other filters, but not when the shots count.

[troutwhisperer]

KLen,

I like your list. What is your cheat sheet?

[kencaleno]

Originally Posted by troutwhisperer

KLen,

I like your list. What is your cheat sheet?

My cheat sheet- on one side, exposure white balance and composition, and on the other dof and hyperfocus for my 18-55 and 70-300 kit lenses:

[rickp1]

Hey guys and gals, thanks for the replies.
We just got back from the Grand Canyon and Vegas and I took a ton of pictures. My fiancé was so patient with me, LOL. All she kept hearing was "hold on babe, almost done" or "wait one more shot" lol!!!

This was my first all out photography trip, and I learned a lot about everything, my gear, lighting, techniques etc...
My main lens was my 17-55 f2.8 lens on my Canon 50D. I also used a polarizing and a Singh 2 stop ND filter. Both were great to use, the polarizing filter almost never came off the lens. I also tried to use my 70-300 lens but unfortunately found out it might be broken. All the images i took with it were slightly out of focus, no matter what the setting or zoom. I called canon and it's off to them to get checked.

So right now I'm in the process of sorting out all the images and doing a bit of PP (which is also a learning experience). As soon as I'm done I'll post the link so i can get some feedback from the group.

Again thanks
R.

[celebesario]

usually i only bring 2 kinds of filter when I am on a photo-hunting instead of UV filter (which I attached one to each of my lenses to prevent dust, fog, etc.)

one is CPL (circular polarizing) because I usually have fun in the beach, so if I want to take a good blue-ocean, I use this filter. This one is really helpful. And I think it reduce the number of light reflection..

two is ND (neutral density) because I usually play in slow speed. Wow, and you know what.. This filter is really helps me to prevent Over-Exposure.. Usually I bring two kinds of ND filter, those are : ND4 and ND8
the higher the number behind ND, the more lights may reduce