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Old 11-04-2009, 04:38 PM
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Default Focus Points and the Center & Reframe Technique

So to my problem/question…

To get up-to-speed with my camera, I’ve mostly concentrated on landscape/still life photography but I’m really interested in capturing life (i.e. people). My biggest issue with capturing “life” is my inability to change camera settings fast enough to capture those special moments. I can usually nail down aperture, shutter, and ISO, but I cannot set my camera’s focus points fast enough. I’m using a Rebel XT which only has 7 focus points but it still takes me a while to get cycle through to get to the one I want. I’ve read about the center & reframe method which is where you use the center point to focus on the subject, then you reframe your shot as needed. There seems to be some people that swear by it and then others (for technical reasons that are over my head) say this method should not be used. The auto selection system works maybe 10% of the time…so that’s out. What method do you use/recommend for quickly getting your subject framed and in focus?

Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:18 PM
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Try it. If it works for you, then use it and ignore other people.

I think that the main problem people have with the method, is that it's fairly easy to get your focus messed up, depending on how far you move the camera. For example -- you focus on something with the center point, and then move by rotating your body -- now the lens has focused at a certain distance, and the camera has moved slightly farther away from your subject due to your rotation. Whether this actually matters or not depends on many things, such as your aperture.

So, give it a try. If your photos end up slightly out of focus, it's probably because the method is a little too imprecise for what you need. But, I use this very frequently, and rarely have trouble. It just takes some practice.
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:39 PM
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Try assessing the area you are working in. Perhaps there is a particular feature, like a doorway or tree that you want in the background. You could focus so that there is a zone of sharpness around that feature and then switch to manual focus mode so that it doesn't change - that's not good if you are walking around but ideal if you are fairly fixed.

Another option is to have a fixed idea on where you want the subject in relation to the rest of the image. You could do a series where you use the left most focus point and then purposefully capture subjects on the left hand side of the frame. Sure, you'll miss some opportunities due to the restriction but you might also find that it helps you find fresh creative ideas.

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Old 11-09-2009, 02:58 PM
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Thanks for the feedback!

I had the chance to sit down and read through my manual and some blogs this weekend and I discovered customer functions! One of these custom functions allows me to use the directional pad on the back of my camera to set the focus points. I played around with this for a bit and I have to say I LOVE this feature. Forget holding the AF Points button and using the wheel...this way is 1000 times better! Now, I can QUICKLY set my focus point focus and shoot; it probably takes half the time as using the wheel.

I also used the CF which changes AF to use the * button instead of holding the shutter button halfway down. I really like for a few reasons:

1. It's more comfortable. I have the battery grip on my rebel which give me more realesate to hold onto (I have pretty big hands). Using the * is just more of a comfortable grip for me.

2. This CF allows you focus and meter at different places. You can focus and shoot which will meter where you are focused on OR you can focus, meter on another place, recompose and shoot. I REALLY like this feature. My 4 year old camera feels new again!

I also tried using the focus/frame method while I was toying around with my camera this weekend. This seems to work well UNLESS you are using a really wide aperture. Images do not come out as sharp as manually changing the AF points and focusing from there. Otherwise this seems to be like a good option if you need to move fast and you don't have time to manually change focus points.
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Old 11-09-2009, 03:54 PM
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I've shot at f/2.8 at 18" and used a focus/recompose method and the image was still very sharp where I wanted it to be.


This is the shot

Her eye is still razor sharp (even blown up!) and the focus falloff is controlled and directed. Remember, this is at less than 18", where any shift in focus would be rather noticeable.
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Old 11-09-2009, 04:56 PM
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Most of my shots end up at f/1.8 because of low light situations. I have gotten to the point I almost solely do center focus/compose. It's not always perfect, and I'm generally focused on moving targets so it's hard anyway. This is an example from last night - focused on his hand, then composed the shot. His hand is definitely well-focused in the larger sizes - and I have about 2" which are in focus at that range/aperture.
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