Wonderful tools for 'Manual' mode beginners

[mike_wahl]

Im still pretty new to this forum, but I have learned a lot from the site and other members here. My setup is in my sig, but until recently I shot exclusively in Tv mode and was to afraid to venture into manual mode. I came across some really excellent tools I thought I would share to help others who want to shoot manual but never fully understood how to setup the shot for correct exposure.

The first and best piece of equipment in my bag is the 'Ultimate Exposure Computer'. Make a copy of it, then make 5 or 6 extras! It will save you loads of time figuring out what the best settings are for manual mode situations:

http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#Light%20Intensity%20Chart

If you dont feel like reading the whole site, Ill give you the synopsis of the information and how to use the charts.

First, print Chart A on one side of a page, then Print chart B on the opposite side.

Chart A gives you different lighting situations (the guy that made the chart does nature shots, but you can apply the scenarios accordingly. For inside shots, the EV value is between 5-8 depending on the strength of ambient light) choose an EV that matches your situation then flip the page over.

Chart B will help you determine the correct Shutter Speed and Aperture for your shot. On the left column, choose the ISO you want to use (I usually start at 200 and if I cant get the right results, then move it up or down accordingly) In the ISO column locate the EV number you chose from chart A and pan your finger to the right where you will see a series of Shutter speeds. Choose a shutter speed that matches the action you are shooting, then pan your finger up to locate your aperture.

Voila! Perfect Exposure!

If you run into a situation where the aperture your shutter speed calls for is not available on your camera, then simply choose a different ISO and try again. Eventually you will come across a combination that works on your device. Also, keep in mind that if your shutter speed is greater than the focal length of lens you are using, USE A TRIPOD!

[GEli]

I don't really see the point to the charts. The author gives some big spiel about 'the trouble with reflected light meters,' but aside from some fairly seldom encountered situations it's rather easy to accommodate for any inherent flaws in the light meter design. It's certainly more versatile than a piece of paper with a small list of lighting conditions and an overly complicated reference chart.

Have you worked with these lists for long? How are you finding them compared to using a real light meter?

[Major_Small]

It's a nice resource, but I would definitely suggest learning how ISO, Aperture, and Shutter speed affect each other, and that you learn how to read a light meter. It's infinitely easier and more accurate than charts like these could ever hope to be.

Reflected light meters, used correctly (with a grey card), are just about as accurate as other types, and both are much better than using a chart like this.

[mike_wahl]

Well its not a 'cure all' just a reference point. For someone new to manual mode it can at least ballpark an area to fine tune your settings. I agree its never good to put all your eggs in one basket. Ive never actually used a light meter and am new to manual mode myself so these charts have proven very very valuable in helping me determine a starting point to find my correct exposure.

I dont see how its 'overly complicaed' by any stretch of the imagination Geli.

[wulf]

I get my ballpark figures by considering the side effects of the three points of the exposure triangle. For example, I might decide that I need a narrow depth of field, so that means a wide aperture. Where possible I like to work at ISO 200 (lowest setting on the D40). Therefore, that leaves me the shutter speed to adjust. I'll take a guess (getting easier with experience) and look at the picture that results.

The histogram and the blinking highlights modes are invaluable for this and, assuming it isn't spot on (a rare occurence at the start of a shoot), adjust accordingly.

To me, that is a much more pragmatic approach than reference charts or separate light meters: instant feedback is one of the joys of digital photography.

Wulf

[Taallyn]

I use the meter scale in my viewfinder. Then I will look at the histogram and/or the hightlight warning and and make adjustments as needed. Like Wulf said, you start with what you need for the shot i.e. narrow DoF, fast shutter speed, low-light-no-flash environment and go from there to set your other parameters. Then the LCD tools will help you make any corrections if your initial guesses are wrong.