Quote:
Originally Posted by Flippant
i don't touch ev compensation, normally, becuase i don't know what the camera is doing to acheive it. when you shoot in full manual mode, is there any purpose to adjusting ev compensation rather than shutter/aperture? when the camera set in manual mode, and bracket mode is used, let's say +/-1EV, what does the camera do to change the exposure?
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There is no exposure compensation setting in manual mode.
In S or A modes, you can set the aperture or shutter speed (and neither in the case of P mode). The camera then calculates the setting you didn't provide in order to provide what the camera thinks is the proper exposure. Adjusting the exposure compensation in A mode changes the shutter speed the camera chooses, while adjusting Exposure compensation in S mode changes the aperture the camera decides on. However, in Manual mode, the camera doesn't choose any settings, so there are no automatic settings that Exposure compensation can adjust.
Exposure bracketing in A mode will adjust the exposure by altering the shutter speed (because the camera figures you want a certain depth of field), and in S mode by altering the aperture. In Canon's, P mode bracketing is adjusted by shutter speed I think, but double check your camera's manual to be sure. On my Canon dSLR, bracketting in manual mode is done by varying the shutter speed. Again, check your own camera's manual, as it could be different for different companies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by winterminute
Should a well-balanced histogram come very close to EV 0?
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There's actually no such thing as a well balanced histogram. As I said earlier, the correct exposure is the one that the Photographer feels is best for the particular shot. After all, a shot of a person at night is going to have a much lower brightness than a picture of a person in the desert during the day. Generally, try to avoid having large spikes on the far edges of the historgram, because they are indicative of "clipping". Spikes at the far left indicate areas of solid black, and spikes on the far right show solid white. In both of these areas, there is little to no detail at all. The best general advice is to use the highest exposure that DOESN'T provide clipped highlights (these often flash in the LCD review). This way, you have as much detail as possible and avoid shadows, because as baseballboy828 pointed out, you can darken an overly bright area without too much trouble, but brightening a dark area often introduces noise.