Correcting Multiple Problems in Photoshop
You may have seen it mentioned before to avoid mixed light sources. Very often people aren’t completely sure what that means or realize just how much havoc it can wreck on your photos.
Today, let’s look at how to fix multiple problems in a single photo all at once including correcting for two different color casts from mixed light sources. This may get a bit complicated but I’ll try to keep it as simple as I can. You can see from the original image (below) that we have three main problems to deal with:
- The background is very cool/blue. So are the highlights on one side of the subject’s face. (This color cast will become more obvious as we go along.)
- Overall, the subject is a bit too warm/amber toned. (This will also become more obvious as we make our adjustments.)
- The primary subject is underexposed.

The first thing I did was create a new, blank layer and paint black over everything except the main subject. This made it easier for me to select just the subject or just the background. Since I knew I would need to do both, it made sense for me to perform this intermediate step.
As you paint nearer the edges of your subject, you may wish to feather (decrease hardness on) your brush in order to blend the transition.

With my background painted a uniform color, it was easy for me to use the Magic Wand tool to select the background. With the background selected, I was able to save my selection (Select | Save Selection…) You’ll want to save it in case you need to use it multiple times. I gave mine a meaningful name, in this case “Window”.

I then inverted the selection (Select | Invert) so that my subject was selected and saved that in the same way but with the meaningful name “Subject”.
I then clicked on the background layer to ensure it was active and loaded the Window selection (Select | Load Selection…) so that the “marching ants” were once again around the window in the background. With that selection active, I created a layer mask (Layer | New Adjustment Layer | Photo Filter…) to fix the color balance.
I made the adjustments by eye but you can see that warming filter #85 set to a density of 60% seems to have fixed the color cast nicely. Also note that, because I had an active selection when I created the layer, the layer was automatically masked to include only my selection area. No extra work! So the effect was applied only to the area inside my selection. (As the mask is created, your selection automatically goes away so there’s no need to deselect it.)

Next I clicked on the background layer again and loaded my saved selection of the subject (Select | Load Selection…) With that selection active, I created a new layer mask (Layer | New Adjustment Layer | Exposure…) to bring up the brightness level. Since the window in the background was not underexposed, I wanted to brighten only my main subject and this type of selection mask does that perfectly.

Looking at the screen shot for this step, some may say I overdid it on the brightening. In truth, I initially applied a smaller adjustment but the next step darkened the subject again slightly and necessitated my opening up this layer again to tweak the settings. In fact, that’s one of the best things about using adjustment layers versus making the adjustments directly on your image: you can go back, even many steps down the line, and play around with the adjustment settings. Nothing you do to your photo is ever permanent as long as it remains on its own layer.
The second thing I would point out is that I also adjusted the Gamma. For those who avoid using Gamma, it’s essentially the same as contrast. I prefer Exposure/Gamma over Brightness/Contrast because the final effects seem more subtle to my eye. It’s all a matter of preference.
Having brightened my subject, you can now see more easily that he’s much too yellow. This marks a second color cast, and one that’s completely different from the first; a hallmark of the problems associated with mixed light sources. I corrected this little problem by loading my saved selection of the subject again (Select | Load Selection…) With the selection active, I created a new color correction layer mask (Layer | New Adjustment Layer | Photo Filter…) This time I used a cooling filter #82. Filter density was set by eye but 20% seemed about right.

This fixed most of the light on our subject but now you can plainly see how blue the highlights on the right side of his face (left side of the picture) are. We’ll need to do something about that.
This next section is a lot harder for me to explain than it will be for you to actually do. (Once you’ve done it a couple of times, you’ll see what I mean.) First, making sure I don’t have any active selections, I create a new color correction adjustment layer (Layer | New Adjustment Layer | Photo Filter…) This is just a plain ole adjustment layer which will affect the entire image. For now.
Knowing that I want to warm those highlights, I go ahead and select a warming filter #81. This is less intense than the #85 filter. I set the filter density to 70%. This was done by eye, looking only at the highlights I want to correct. (Yes, the entire image was warmed considerably but we’ll take care of that in the next step.)

Click on the layer mask to make sure that’s where you’ll be painting, then select the paint bucket and “pour” black onto the image. This has the effect of masking off the entire layer and completely undoing the color adjustment you just did.

Next, making sure that the layer mask is still active, I select the paintbrush tool. I switch the colors so that I will be painting with white instead of black. I want the effect to be subtle so I reduce opacity on the brush to 40%. (I can always use multiple strokes to build-up the effect.) I also set an extremely soft brush, in this case 20% hardness. That way, I won’t have any hard edges where I paint. Finally, I set the brush size fairly large so just a few strokes will cover most of the areas I’m targeting.

Then it’s just a matter of painting directly onto any areas that look too blue. As I paint onto the image, what I will see is some of the warmth coming back into the places my brush touches. Until I’ve finally transformed this…

…into this.





17 Responses to “Correcting Multiple Problems in Photoshop” - Add Yours
May 10th, 2009 at 10:56 am
Thank you for this tutorial!
I think it’s also important (specially if you use dSLR) to shoot in RAW.
When you shoot in RAW and use the dedicated software (as a Nikonian I use Capture NX) the range of “light” and exposure fixes one can do is very wide. I don’t know about Canon’s software, but in Nikon you can highlight/brighten/darker specific areas and that without cutting the image or adding layers.
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May 10th, 2009 at 6:34 pm
Here is a wild and crazy concept… “How about learning to shoot it the RIGHT way in the camera in the first place” and avoid trying to turn garbage into something usable? Old saying us pro’s head to “Garbage in Garbage out”
May 10th, 2009 at 9:16 pm
Viscara, you can’t always do that. Not all of us have camera’s with amazing dynamic range, so sometimes we need to underexpose bits to prevent blown out backgrounds. And there nothing you can do about two different colour casts since this is just a shot of his kid, not a professional photoshoot where you choose what light goes where.
May 10th, 2009 at 10:28 pm
I always snicker at the myopic attitude of …shoot it right 100% of the time and you won’t have to subject yourself to all the fixes in post production. I can hear him now..
Photographer:
“Hang on there little girl. Don’t move don’t lose that spontaneous smile so I can filter all these tungsten lights. OH, wait wait.. I know.. I’ll get out my strobes and light the room with grids and a softbox. Give me twenty minutes.. don’t move..don’t lose that spontaneous smile. Wait! Where are you going? I haven’t even formatted my flash card!!”
Yeah that works.
May 10th, 2009 at 10:40 pm
@viscara
If we all would be able to shoot every single image exactly right in the first place, we wouldn’t be on this site, now would we? So why don’t you just take a chill pill and leave people alone? Not everyone can be an enlightened photography genius as you.
May 10th, 2009 at 11:27 pm
As much as I appreciate viscara’s attempt on common sense… reznor is definitely right on… we visit darren’s sight for help…we are looking to be taught…and let’s face it…RAW is the most efficient way to shoot photography for ‘most’ occasion/opportunities…
please be more understanding with the rest of us…this is a great site…that we all can learn from…
May 11th, 2009 at 1:08 am
Thanks a lot for the tutorial. This is great stuff! Especially for novices, where you do tend to get a lot of miscued shots, or unexpected brightness/contrast exposures.
When you say “pour” back, I think I missed that part of it. I’m relatively new to photoshop, and if you could just explain that part a little more detailed, it would help. Thanks.
Also, one question I had was, between Layers and Adjustment Layers, which one is better? Are both the same? When should I use one over the other.
Thanks.
May 11th, 2009 at 1:25 am
@Arun – You ask some excellent questions. Perhaps even important enough to warrant an article of their own, but I will give the quick explanation here.
When I say “pour” black onto your adjustment layer, in reality you just hold the mouse cursor anywhere in the image frame and click. The analogy of the paint bucket seemed to lend itself to the visual image of pouring color onto the image. (One click fills the entire frame with your selected color, just as if you’d poured a whole bucket of paint.)
As to the different types of layers, a regular layer has image elements. It could be a copy of your original image, parts of the image, a completely different image or even elements you’ve drawn in yourself. An adjustment layer has no image elements, only ‘instructions’ for how to change something about the underlying image. You can’t see these instructions but Photoshop reads them and applies them to the image you do see on your screen.
May 11th, 2009 at 1:37 am
Thanks.. That’s really helpful. The thing with Photoshop is getting used to the language used! :)
That’s the best explanation for Layers v/s ADJ Layers I heard/seen. So if I had to only modify one pic, say the Brightness/Contrast, or Adjusting the Color Mix in the photos or applying Blur/Sharpening Filter etc, it’s best to use the ADJ Layers over Layers. I did not get the meaning of “image elements” very explicitly, but unless you’re looking to bring more images together, or bring border effects I think Layers would not be necessary.
I have been using only layers till now, and since I am new, I am only looking to learn & explore fast. I’ve used all of the above, viz. Sharpening, Blur, Contrast Adj., etc using Layers only. That is why I wanted to confirm.
Thanks a lot for your quick & brief explanation. I think I’ll keep that in mind for a long time! You’ve given me a head start into learning this.
May 11th, 2009 at 6:00 am
Fantastic tutorial — very educational, well-written, and easy to follow. I’ve been using this site for quite a while now and have learned a tremendous amount from all those who are willing to share their knowledge. While we all try to “shoot it the RIGHT way in the camera in the first place”, it’s not always possible due to many factors (lack of skill, lack of pro level camera with huge dynamic range, etc.), so I really appreciate when others take the time to help educate other users of this site. There is a reason this site is called Digital Photography SCHOOL – we are here to learn.
Viscara – if you have nothing to learn, please find another site and keep your nasty comments to yourself.
May 11th, 2009 at 8:12 am
Great tutorial and I can see big enhancement in before/after pictures..:)
May 11th, 2009 at 9:02 am
Jeffrey, I’m sorry but you forgott the blue highlights on the childs hat. Makes the image look unreal. Attention to detail is always key. Otherwise, god little tut… tut on
May 11th, 2009 at 8:48 pm
Thanks for the tutorial. But it feels like the long way round to me – I think in this case I could get comparable results by shooting in RAW and moving the ’shadows’ slider in iPhoto (or the equivalent in Photoshop).
What do you guys think?
(Granted not everyone has a camera that can shoot in RAW. For those that don’t, perhaps this method is better suited for them.)
May 12th, 2009 at 6:03 am
That is possibly the ugliest kid i have ever seen. You need a lot more post production that just color correction to save this shot. But all in all still an excellent tutorial.
May 12th, 2009 at 11:56 pm
Boy, this is a tough room! Some of the responses don’t make me want to post any tutorials here. Ligthen up guys (no pun inteneded!)
Jeff, good effort. Not the way I would do it, but there are dozens of ways to do everything in Photoshop, and the more techniques you have under your belt the better.
May I suggest the subtle use of shadow/highlight? I know it doesn’t fix everything, but it’s a great start.
Anyway, thanks for your work on this post.
Kim
May 15th, 2009 at 2:05 am
Oh Viscara you are funny. If I listened to you and failed to turn my “garbage” in something useable – well I’d be about 1000 bucks poorer and would not have 2 book covers, a magazine cover and 3 contest placements under my belt. So excuse me while I go sit in the corner and laugh some more.
Thanks for the tutorial Jeffery.
May 16th, 2009 at 1:43 pm
I think it helps to keep in mind that some who are reading here do not have fancy cameras or any lighting equipment at all and just want to learn. I still only have a Cybershot 5 megapixel and am just learning what all the buttons do! But I love photography and am trying to learn all I can whenever I can. I am self taught on Photoshop (well not really, all due to tutorials like this one). I’ve been able to fix lots of shots of my kids (God bless child photographers, let me tell you!), and photos from other family members that were not presentable. If it helps you, thank the author. If you can tell it better than by all means please share with us too :) We’re all here to share and learn.
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