6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
Discover 6 secrets for great portrait composition!
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Every on-location portraitist is faced with the challenge of paying attention to the details regarding his or her subject, such as posing, lighting, composition etc. Perhaps the greatest mistake made by amateur on-location portrait photographers is the lack of emphasis placed on a portrait’s background surroundings.
Photographers who do not closely examine the surroundings within the frame of their image are those who come away with images that have great distractions. No high school senior or bride will purchase a portrait in which a tree limb is sticking out of her head. Such distracting elements take emphasis off the subject, and are detrimental to the portraitist’s sales. There is nothing more painful for a portraitist than taking a portrait that is beautifully posed, gorgeously lit, and absolutely unusable … simply because no attention was given to background composition!
Posing and lighting both play enormous roles in the creation of a dynamic portrait. However, background composition is a forgotten component that requires an equal amount of time and thought.
Some things to consider when creating a perfectly composed portrait:
1. Fill the frame with your subject
A portrait is about the person, so don’t be afraid to zoom in close! Remember that zooming in does not mean capturing only face shots. You can also capture “tight”, close up shots of your subject sitting on a stool or leaning into a tree.

2. Keep eyes in the upper third
This is the most natural spacing for a portrait. Try not to divert from this rule unless you are deliberately creating tension. Another exception of this rule is when a subject is full-bodied in the bottom third of the frame.
3. Use framing to concentrate all attention on your subject
Rather than eliminate the environment, use it! Doorways, arches, windows, gazebos are all creative solutions that allow for maximum subject focus and heightened visual interest.

4. Create texture
Once again, if you can’t eliminate a distracting background, use it to your advantage! By pulling the subject away from the background and shooting on Aperture priority (f4.0), you will create a small depth of field to blur the backdrop and allow for artistic texture. Your subject will stand out of the background without completely removing all creative interest in the shot.

5. Use lines
Brick is the perfect background for a portrait! The lines add creative interest, but they also draw attention to your subject. Keep in mind that any “line” used in a portrait is strongest when it comes outside the frame and leads to the subject.
6. Change your angles
Sometimes eliminating a distraction is simply a matter of moving the camera to another position. To make the best use of perspective, work to change your camera-to-subject angle. Often by moving a little to the right or left, or getting higher or lower, you can completely abolish that distracting tree branch or telephone pole.
You will be guaranteed to sell your portrait creations when you concentrate on background details, make your subject stand out, and invest creative interest in the portrait’s composition.
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37 Responses to “6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography” - Add Yours
March 11th, 2008 at 12:44 am
Great Tips! Things we all need to be reminded of!
March 11th, 2008 at 4:34 am
These are some really great tips and I do try to use them many of them when I photograph my daughter:
my example: http://www.amatterofmemories.com/2007/12/our-christmas-princess.html
The third picture in this post is my favorite and I three of these techniques are used – I changed the typical angle by shooting her from above, which allowed me to fill the frame with her dress and texture is created by the pattern on her dress.
March 11th, 2008 at 6:06 am
Cool Tips! I have some portrait photos, but they aren’t anything especial… because of my lack of knowledge! Thank you for the tips :)
March 11th, 2008 at 7:37 am
Short and sweet!
I’d love to have more in depth information about portrait photography; keep these articles coming!
March 11th, 2008 at 9:08 am
“and shooting on Aperture priority (f4.0)” Aghem.
Well, you might as well shoot on MANUAL, and the f number depends on the situation. I myself usually prefer the fastest aperture my lens can provide (thank you, f/1.8 nifty fifty! :])
March 11th, 2008 at 3:38 pm
i like your ‘how to’ today …
i agree that shooting on aperture priority is not ideal here. shoot on manual. however, f1.8? for a portrait? i think that’s too shallow, where the nose and eyes may be in focus, but the ears and rest of the head will be soft.
thanks, though, for some nice ideas.
cheers
david
http://www.davidsmeaton.com
March 11th, 2008 at 9:43 pm
i took a peek at her site and she seems to have huge problems with focusing, how come i wonder that she teaches photography.
March 12th, 2008 at 1:22 am
christina’s depiction of simple rules to make great photographs is worth commendable. i liked her idea of leading lines and rule of thirds. thanks.
March 12th, 2008 at 4:21 am
Thanks for the great tips. i always lent towards shooting the head of my subject in the upper third, but didn’t know to keep the eyes up there as well. nice.
March 12th, 2008 at 7:53 am
These are good tips and ideas to remember or rather train to consider without thinking. A softer focus is often times what is needed to be “photogenic”. Acne we all know is or can be an issue for teens. Makeup can hide a lot, but then at times you need to hide the make up. Alternatively spend hours on the computer to touch up the portrait.
I guess that your ears might fade to the background if you are trying to use a macro lens for the portrait. In this case… backup. Some backgrounds are much cluttered and need to be diffused greatly, while others work well with the shot. But then I guess that is why Canon or Nikon or whoever, made that aperture thingy adjustable.
I did look at her site and enjoyed seeing her images. She does nice work with angles and perspective. If you look at her pictures she appears to be about 3 to 6 meters away from her subject in most cases. Any closer and aberrations would start to develop. Faces would lose the fullness of seeing around the sides for depth.
If that works for her then that is wonderful. Other artists have different techniques and if it works for them, just as wonderful.
Thanks Christina
Mike
March 12th, 2008 at 2:51 pm
Very practical insights, really helpful. I look into her webpage and was able to picked up some good ideas on portrait.
March 12th, 2008 at 9:43 pm
nice tips. Thanks for your work
March 12th, 2008 at 11:24 pm
Great site Christina ,… very encouraging. Thank you for the great tips too
all the best
Winn
March 13th, 2008 at 4:46 am
Thanks for the tips, will try some shots soon :)
March 13th, 2008 at 2:44 pm
While these might be insightful tips for a complete novice, this article is rather presumptuous. Only the second of all three of those photos is even above mediocre from a professional standpoint, and can hardly be called a portrait since there’s so much excess environment that it’s hard to even focus on the woman pictured. None of this necessarily qualifies for “perfect composition” for a portrait.
May 13th, 2008 at 2:03 am
Perhaps Jennifer would be gracious enough to do a duplicate article for comparison. It’s easy to criticize (just ask my mother-in-law).
May 24th, 2008 at 10:27 am
Shot #3: great doorway and great subject, cut them in half and market each separately.
December 25th, 2008 at 4:03 am
Good things for the amateurs to learn.
However if you go to the website you’ll see that with a lot of the photos shown the background is more in focus than the subject. #1 rule always keep the eyes in focus.
I will say however that she does have a way with the seniors that she is photographing. None one them look stressed or uncomfortable. And that should be a major point in the perfect portrait tips.
#1 is a great point
#2 should really be “keep the eyes focused” and never have them level with the horizon.
#3 yes use framing but….The framed door photo above is more of an environmental photograph that’s gone bad, too much environment not enough subject unless the subject is the door. She used a 24mm lens on this which if you don’t shoot level you will get not so good results. She should have shot this landscaped orientation and stood on a ladder. she would still have a frame but no light and no plastic garbage bag.
#4 Aperture priority? not for portraits even outside. 4.0 is fine for lenses above 85mm and the subject is at least that many feet from the background. something should have been mentioned about the longer the lens the shorter the dof. IE., 1.8 on a 50 has a deeper dof that 1.8 on a 85mm.
#5 yes! but not to many lines.
#6 Not just to eliminate background junk but to enhance subject matter. find the correct angle to enhance the subject then if there is junk distracting keep the angle but move the camera position.
Wait! there is something missing that’s all important…Lighting…. can’t have perfect portrait without proper lighting……
January 21st, 2009 at 4:16 pm
Lighting is so important but rarely paid attention to with early stage photographers. The background tips are great to add awareness since anyone with the tendency to want to venture into photography will quickly internalize “lighting and background” and jump to new levels!
April 24th, 2009 at 3:09 am
Every rule is made to be broken.
1, 3. The “subject” doesn’t mean just the person(s). It should mean the entire composition of the person and where s/he is located. The entire frame must work together to form a coherent composition. There are infinite variations, so my advice is to experiment until you find that perfect balance between your human subject and the background. Ditto for contrived geometric rules such as “the upper third”. If you want to create your own style, again, test and try different combinations.
4. My view on “texture” is that a little goes a long way. The author’s website posts several highly textural environmental portraits that in my opinion are too distracting from the person. Again, the whole composition must work together to tell a story.
5. Use lines – yes. But brick the “perfect background”? Am I missing something? Unless your subject is an urban urchin, or high fashion model, brick walls don’t do much to enhance your photo except to say “brick wall”.
Here’s my portrait portfolio so you can see examples of what I’m talking about:
http://naturalportraits.smugmug.com/gallery/3273171_vNPqi#194912142_h3wnE
September 21st, 2009 at 1:58 am
@David I was told 1.8 was the best for portraits and that I should consider my nifty fifty as a portrait lens (which is what I have been using it for). Have I got this wrong ?
September 21st, 2009 at 3:42 am
david,
Heres how i see it and used it I have a Nikkor 1.8 85mm lens. It is considered a “soft” lens perfect for portrait work. Not having the f-stop at 1.8 is advisable, more like 2.8 to 4 is better gets the whole face more in focus. A 50mm for portrait work means being closer to the subject. In my opinion too close. I prefer the 85mm and standing back a bit further.
Now this also could depend on how much of the body you want shown. A portrait is about the person and an environmental portrait is about the person and their world. If you want an environmental portrait then the 50 will do just fine but judge your distance and get only what is necessary in the photo for the portrait. Don’t let the surrounding overwhelm the subject.
September 21st, 2009 at 4:10 am
Here are my portraits, even if sometimes they aren’t properly portraits…
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/ste_95/album/149792
September 21st, 2009 at 4:41 am
Love the tip about coming away from the brick a little bit. Really great. Thanks!
September 21st, 2009 at 7:13 am
Cool tips! Thanks!
Check out my portraits!
September 21st, 2009 at 11:11 pm
great tips hopefully used to some effect for me
http://bit.ly/XOrWq
September 22nd, 2009 at 12:39 am
Thanks for the tips. I love taking portraits. Even more so since I got my first prime lens. Posted some portraits on my block recently:
http://www.shutteria.com/2009/09/nikon-35mm-lens.html
http://www.jjsolomon.com/2009/09/visiting-former-east-germany-part-2.html
September 22nd, 2009 at 10:30 pm
Thumb up!!! Thanks for the note, its been a big help to me as started into potraiture lately.
September 24th, 2009 at 4:57 am
What do you say about these two examples of mine?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/red_rares/3938290717/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/red_rares/3938290341/in/photostream/
It was my first attempt with portraits , after reading some tips from DPS . I used them , and this is what I managed to get . I would love to hear some opinions of yours .
September 24th, 2009 at 4:15 pm
I am a sports/ news photographer who has been taking shots of the crowd and friends as well as of the players on the floor for several years with my Canon 30D. I get lots of comments that I am good. Due to many requests I am setting up a litle studio without any knowledge about working with lights. It is challenging me. Thanks so much for this post. I am just starting to work with the lights my husband set up and I can’t figure out why the pictures are coming out red. I thought it was bouncing from the nearby walls, but bounced of the ceilng in a home with a baby and he was red. I have changed every setting including to tungsten, AWB and did a custom white balance with not much change. I got umbrellas but don’t really know how to use them. When do you go through them or put light into them to bounce back? My husband refused to spend a mint on lights until we see if (in this economy) it will work to set up a studio. He found an article on how to set up a studio cheaply. We are very rural but I feel like the country bumpkin photographer with heat lamps from the farm store clipped on tripods. Yikes! Maybe it is a reflection of the red in my face? *smile* I see a rainbow of colors on the inside of the lamps too. Are my “lights” the problem? :o(
September 24th, 2009 at 11:34 pm
How red is red that is of course your white balance should be set to flash or try it on auto first and see what happens.lots of question to figure it out.
1. Are you shooting in raw?
1a.if so does the red show up in the preview?
2. What camera?
3. What lights?
4. white balance have you custom set white balance by shooting towards the light using something like an expodisc?
5. in the color settings for your camera is the hue set toward magenta side? typically there would be negative number for that.
6.Even for the white balance setting there should be an adjustment for hue using numbers is that off?
I’ve got loads more questions but later i have to go to work
September 25th, 2009 at 1:21 pm
@creative: it’s a matter of white balance, specifically the kelvin temperature. Shoot in raw, then play around with your kelvin temps in your editing program to find out what temperature your lights are… studios are often around the 4700-4800 range to exposure Caucasians properly, but this changes when shooting other skin colours. The benefit of RAW is that it doesnt set a temperature, and you can decide later
A few tips I would add to this article:
1) Let the post-production match the subject. Take these two shots, for instance:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/3098664693/in/set-72157601769220969/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/3467051783/in/set-72157601769220969/
In the first, I used a black and white with a strong filter to bring out the wrinkles and accentuate that mood. If I had gone for, perhaps, a red filter it would have made him look angelic (contrasting with his stern expression) and ruined the shot.
Second shot, I desaturated a lot but left that vivid blue eye in their to make sure you look right at it.
2) Context can do a lot. In this photo of shoe-shining kids in Quito, I kept a lot of the town square in the background because that is their lives… it tells us more about the subjects: http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/3812480341/in/set-72157601769220969/
3) While eyes up high are often helpful, it’s a pretty flimsy rule and one that shouldnt be followed too religiously. Other forms in the frame can be used to draw attention to the subject or to even enhance him, as I did in the studio with this enormous shadow: http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/3459337201/in/set-72157601769220969/
Here’s my studio portraiture set for anybody interested: http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinryan/sets/72157616184538095/
September 25th, 2009 at 4:09 pm
Thanks for sharing :) And for the photography snobs, seriously, go elsewhere. Since you are flawless, why aren’t you out there shooting since you have clients lined up out the door instead of putting down other photographers just trying to help others out?
September 25th, 2009 at 7:32 pm
I will remember these tips – thanks!
September 25th, 2009 at 10:46 pm
hfng: (RedDot)…..Love your lighting. For your outdoors shots, do you use supplemental lighting? I am still learning and a novice, but find that getting the lighting perfect is not easy – even outside, and if its not right, the picture are not “crisp”. Many great photos I’ve taken are ruined by the fuzzy look. Please, share your tips! mish@photographsbymish.com
September 26th, 2009 at 3:21 pm
hi ms. christina, can you comments on these sample of outdoor portrait please so i can improve my craft. thanks.
September 26th, 2009 at 7:29 pm
Good tips for me.its been a big help to me as guider.
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